Winter melon soup

Winter melon soup is something that my Ah Mah (paternal grandmother) made frequently. As she was cooking for about 20 people at a time, her presentation was a lot simpler than the way we've photographed it. She put all the ingredients, including the winter melon (rind removed and the flesh cut into large cubes) into a pot and simmered everything together. I learned this banquet style of winter melon soup from Kwok, a friend in New York. The ingredients are the same but it looks a lot nicer.

Winter melon, despite the name, isn't a winter squash. The waxy coating on the exterior is said (by those with vivid imaginations) to look like frost - hence the name. Another reason is that the squash is considered to have a cooling effect on the body.

Of course, this delicious soup can be served at any time of the year. It's essential, though, that you use good quality, home-made stock.

To get a winter melon that will serve six to eight people, you'll probably need to order one in advance from your vegetable vendor. You'll need a wok with a high-domed lid, plus a low rack to fit into the wok.

If you can't find night-fragrant buds (also known as night jasmine or tonkin jasmine), mince a few spring onions, rinse them with cold water and scatter them over the soup just before you serve it.

1 whole winter melon, to serve six to eight people, and small enough to fit into the wok
1 litre home-made chicken stock, or as needed
4 conpoy (dried scallop), about 2.5cm in diameter
4-6 dried mushrooms, depending on size
About 20 kei ji (also known as wolfberries or goji berries)
4 thin slices (about 2cm square) Chinese ham
4-6 fresh shrimp, with bodies about 4cm long, shells and heads removed
4-6 fresh scallops, about 3cm in diameter
A small handful of night-fragrant buds
Salt, if needed

Heat the chicken stock until warm, then add the conpoy and dried mushrooms and leave to soak for about 30 minutes, or until the mushrooms are soft. Break the conpoy into shreds. Remove and discard the mushroom stems, then cut the caps into 5mm dice.

Cut off the top of the melon in a deep zig-zag pattern to expose the flesh. Scoop out the seeds and soft pulp from the cavity. Use a spoon to carefully scoop out some of the flesh to enlarge the cavity, taking care not to remove too much or the shell won't be sturdy enough and might collapse when you steam it. The shell should be about 1cm thick.

Julienne the Chinese ham against the grain and put it into the cavity of the melon. Add the mushrooms, conpoy, kei ji and the scooped-out melon flesh. Put the winter melon in a shallow, heatproof bowl. (If needed, trim off a fine shaving from the bottom of the melon so it can sit flat.) 

Place the bowl containing the squash on a round rack with low feet (about 2.5cm high) in a wok. Add boiling water to the wok so it reaches the level of the rack. Heat the chicken stock until simmering then pour it into the melon until it almost reaches the top. Cover the wok with the lid and steam it over a medium-high flame until the winter melon shell is tender, adding water to the wok as needed. Don't overcook it or the squash might collapse. Cut the scallops and shrimps in half lengthwise and put them and the night-fragrant buds into the melon and steam for a few more minutes, or until the seafood is just cooked. Taste the broth and season with salt, if needed. Serve immediately. After ladling the soup and the solid ingredients into bowls, the flesh of the winter melon "tureen" can be scooped out and served.