Lemon Basque Cheesecake

Lemon Basque Cheesecake

The burnished top and soft and creamy center of a Basque-style cheesecake are the result of being baked in a hot oven as quickly as possible, unlike New York-style cheesecake, which is cooked slowly in a water bath to ensure even cooking and a uniform texture throughout. Not all ovens are the same, so the best way to determine doneness (and avoid overcooking) is to take the internal temperature with a thermometer. The top may not be evenly dark brown by the time the center is done, but turning on the broiler (and watching it like a hawk!) will do the trick in a matter of moments. This version incorporates lemon zest and juice as well as mascarpone for a citrusy profile and uses a food processor for quick and easy assembly.

Yield: 10 servings

Special equipment

Food processor (preferably 14-cup capacity or greater), see Tips 

9-inch springform pan with at least 3-inch sides

Instant-read thermometer

For the cake

1⅓ cups/268 grams plus 1 tablespoon sugar, divided

Finely grated zest of 3 lemons

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) 

1¾ pounds/794 grams cream cheese, cut into 2-inch pieces, at room temperature

8 ounces/227 grams mascarpone cheese, at room temperature

6 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup/237 milliliters heavy cream, at room temperature

7 tablespoons/100 milliliters fresh lemon juice, divided

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

¼ cup/32 grams all-purpose flour

Heat the oven and prepare the pan: Arrange a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat to 450 degrees. Crumple up two large pieces of parchment paper (each at least 15 inches long), then smooth flat again and arrange perpendicularly. (Crumpling the parchment helps it mold better to the pan and stay in place.) Press the two pieces into the springform pan, smoothing along the bottom to ensure it’s completely flat and up the sides to flatten all creases. Use a pair of scissors to trim away any parchment that extends more than ½ inch above the top of the pan. Set the pan aside. 

Make the batter: In the bowl of a food processor with a minimum 14-cup capacity, combine the 1⅓ cups/268 grams sugar, lemon zest and salt and process until the sugar looks like wet sand and is very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stop the motor and add the cream cheese and mascarpone and process again, pausing once to scrape down the sides, until the mixture is completely smooth and free of lumps and the sugar is dissolved (rub a dab between your fingers to check for graininess), about 30 seconds. 

With the motor running, add the eggs one at a time, processing for a few seconds between additions, then slowly stream in the cream, 6 tablespoons of lemon juice and vanilla. Add the flour and process briefly. Stop the motor, scrape down the sides and process again just until the batter is completely smooth. 

Bake: Pour the batter into the prepared pan and transfer to the oven. Bake until the top is risen, set, and starting to brown, and the batter still moves like liquid underneath the surface (like a waterbed) when jiggled, 30 to 35 minutes. Take the internal temperature with an instant-read thermometer, inserting it into the center of the cake about ⅔ down. When the cake is done the temperature should register somewhere between 140 and 150 degrees (the center will be looser and creamier on the lower end of the range, more set and slightly drier on the higher end, see Tip). Continue baking, checking every few minutes, until it reaches the desired doneness, another 5 to 10 minutes, but you might need to bake for longer, depending on your oven. 

Make the lemon glaze: In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon sugar and stir with a pastry brush to dissolve the sugar. Set the glaze aside. 

Broil the top: Remove the cheesecake from the oven. If the top is dark brown and burnished all over, move on to the next step (this will depend on your oven). If it’s only partially browned, turn on your broiler and let it preheat for a few minutes while the cheesecake cools. Return the cheesecake to the oven and broil, maintaining a constant eye on it, until the entire surface turns a deep, shiny dark brown (but not blackened!), 10 to 20 seconds. Remove from the oven immediately and set aside.

Brush on the glaze and cool: While the cheesecake is still hot from the oven, brush the lemon glaze over the surface, using all of it. Let the cheesecake cool in the pan until the sides are warm but not hot, about 2 hours, then transfer to the refrigerator (it will settle gradually). Refrigerate until it’s cold and completely set, at least 12 hours and up to several days (if refrigerating for longer than 12 hours, cover the surface loosely). 

Serve: Remove the cheesecake from the refrigerator, remove the base from the sides of the pan, and gently peel the parchment away from the cheesecake. (The cake is very solid once cold, so you should be able to flip the cake over to do so.) Cut into slices with a hot knife, cleaning the knife in between cuts. For the best texture, let the slices come to room temperature before serving.

Tips: If your full-size food processor has a capacity of less than 14 cups, you can still make the cheesecake: In step 3, add the eggs, process as directed, then transfer three-fourths of the mixture to a bowl. Whisk the cream, lemon juice and vanilla into the bowl. To the mixture remaining in the food processor, add the flour and process briefly then whisk into the rest of the batter in the bowl until smooth. Proceed with step 4. Alternatively, you could make the cheesecake using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, but the resulting batter may not be as smooth.

For a looser, creamier center on the finished, cooled cake, aim for an internal temperature of 140 degrees or a few degrees above. If you prefer the center to be more set and slightly drier, bake the cake until the center reaches closer to or just at 150 degrees.

DO AHEAD: The cheesecake will keep in the refrigerator, wrapped in plastic, for 4 days.

Excellent cheesecake, excellent recipe! I made this in my 13 cup food processor and even though it was above the fill line, it still all came together just fine. Using my thermometer was really helpful - it was fully cooked even though my gut would have said to go longer. I needed a quick 30-second broil to get the right amount of browning in my oven. Served this with a little rhubarb compote as it's in season, and I think it will pair beautifully with different seasonal fresh fruits all summer!

Salmon Tinga With Cherry Tomatoes

Salmon Tinga With Cherry Tomatoes

Tinga comes from the Nahuatl word “tingatl,” meaning something shredded, messy, or all mixed up — basically a delicious stewed guisado of shredded meat (chicken, pork, or beef) cooked with tomatoes, onions, and chipotle chiles. While tinga originated in the Mexican state of Puebla, it's now a beloved classic all over the country, with every region adding its own twist. Salmon works beautifully here because it roasts gently in a hot oven in mere minutes, emerging perfectly flaky and juicy. Meanwhile, the classic tinga sauce comes together on the stove: rich tomato and chipotle, toasted cumin, softened onions and garlic, finished with a splash of apple cider vinegar that wakes everything up. A swirl of crema and a handful of crunchy greens brings it together. Serve the saucy salmon with the greens for a light dinner, or tuck it into warm corn tortillas for a quick fish taco night. Stack it high on a crunchy tostada, or serve it straight as a guisado alongside rice.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

4 (8-ounce) skinless salmon fillets, or 1 (2-pound) skinless salmon fillet, preferably center-cut

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 

Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 dried bay leaves

1 medium red onion, thinly sliced into half moons

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

12 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

2 canned chipotles, from a can of chipotles in adobo, finely chopped

1 (15-ounce) can crushed tomatoes 

1¼ cups vegetable broth or water

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

½ teaspoon sugar

2 large limes, zested and juiced (about ¼ cup juice)

6 ounces tender crunchy greens, such as Little Gems, endive or romaine hearts (about 6 cups), torn

½ cup crema Mexicana, or sour cream thinned out with water 

½ cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro or parsley (leaves and tender stems)

12 corn tortillas or tostadas, or rice pilaf, for serving (optional)

Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a large baking dish, coat salmon fillets with 2 tablespoons olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Roast the salmon until it is just opaque throughout and cooked to medium, depending on the thickness, 10 to 12 minutes for individual fillets (or 16 to 20 minutes for one large piece).

While the salmon roasts, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large stainless steel skillet with high sides (or a large enameled Dutch oven) over medium-low heat. Add cumin and toast, stirring constantly, until fragrant and starting to darken, 1 to 2 minutes. Add bay leaves, half of the onions (reserve half for serving) and garlic, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until the onions soften, 5 minutes. Add cherry tomatoes and raise the heat to medium-high. Cook, tossing occasionally, until the tomatoes soften, 5 minutes. 

Stir in chipotles, crushed tomatoes, broth, vinegar and sugar, then season with salt. Bring to a simmer, then adjust the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Cover partially with a lid, and cook, stirring occasionally (scraping the sides to prevent scorching), until the sauce is slightly reduced, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and add more salt, pepper, or chipotles in adobo if you prefer it spicier. Turn off the heat and discard bay leaves.

Toss the reserved onions with lime zest and juice in a medium bowl, and season with salt and pepper.

Transfer salmon to a large serving platter and spoon tinga sauce over the fillet, or serve straight from the baking dish. Top with greens, drizzle with crema or sour cream, top with the citrusy onions and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve with tortillas, tostadas or rice pilaf, if you’d like.

TIP: Agree with the suggestion to skip the lettuce. I used 3-4 tsp of chipotle sauce bc I couldn’t find the chipotles, and I also poured a lot of the excess lime juice from the lime onions into the sauce at the final salt and pepper stage to add a little more zip. Served with a basic box of rice pilaf and tortillas — both good, but particularly liked the rice with the sauce. The whole family loved it!

The sauce and citrus onions were great, but the lettuce didn’t quite make sense in context. We used sockeye—a milder option like coho or steelhead would be a better fit. Still cleaned our plates!

Greek Chicken With Cucumber-Feta Salad

Greek Chicken With Cucumber-Feta Salad

This meal has the flavors of a Greek combination plate with chicken souvlaki, Greek salad and tzatziki, but it is streamlined for the home cook. Boneless chicken thighs are coated with herby, garlicky yogurt, then seared until tender inside and crusty and browned outside. Extra yogurt dresses cucumbers and tomatoes that have had a chance to drain with salt so they taste their most vivid. Feta and olives add briny bites to the creamy, crunchy salad, but feel free to incorporate other elements of Greek salad or tzatziki, like romaine lettuce, bell peppers, mint or dill, toasted walnuts or thinly sliced red onion. Eat with lemon potatoes or toasted pita.

Yield: 4 servings

1 ½ cups plain Greek yogurt

3 garlic cloves, finely grated

Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)

Black pepper

1 teaspoon dried oregano or mint

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, patted dry

1 ½ pounds cucumbers (preferably Japanese, Persian or mini, seedless cucumbers)

1 pound ripe tomatoes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

4 ounces feta, crumbled (about ¾ cup)

½ cup Kalamata olives, pitted and halved

In a large bowl, stir together the yogurt and garlic; season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer ½ cup of the yogurt to a medium bowl and reserve for Step 5.

Coat the chicken: To the large bowl, add the oregano and stir to combine. Season the chicken all over with 1 ½ teaspoons salt and a few grinds of pepper. Add the chicken to the large bowl and turn to coat; set aside.

Start the salad: Smash the cucumbers with the side of your knife until craggy and split. Rip into ½- to 1-inch pieces and transfer to a colander placed in the sink. Slice or chop the tomatoes into bite-size pieces. Add to the cucumbers along with 1 ½ teaspoons salt. (It may seem like a lot of salt, but most will drain away.) Toss to combine and leave to drain.

In a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet, heat the olive oil over medium. Scrape excess marinade off the chicken, then cook the chicken in batches, adding oil to the pan if necessary, until it’s well browned and releases from the pan, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip and cook until cooked through, another 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to plates to rest. (For grilling info, see Tip.)

To the medium bowl of yogurt, add the feta and mash with a fork until a chunky paste forms. Shake the cucumbers and tomatoes to get rid of any excess moisture. Add to the feta yogurt along with the olives and stir until coated. The balance is dependent on your produce and feta, so season to taste with salt and pepper until flavors are vivid. Eat alongside the chicken.

Tip: To grill the chicken: Heat a grill to medium and clean and grease the grates. Grill the chicken over direct heat until it's well browned and releases from the grates, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip and cook until cooked through, another 5 to 7 minutes. (For a gas grill, close the lid between flips.)

baked the chicken on a sheet pan at 400

I do a similar meal often. I like to add turmeric to my marinade for both the color and the health benefits and always add an acid too such as lemon, lime and sometimes orange zest. Sometimes I add a little cumin for a warm flavor or even chilli powder for some smokeyness. This is a great base recipe to make your own.

Made this as written and it is fabulous (400 degree oven instead of stovetop). Took a leftover piece of chicken and cut it up and added to the leftover cucumber-feta salad for lunch leftovers! This recipe could easily be a cold Greek chicken salad.

My favorite method for cooking yogurt-marinated chicken is the broiler: on top of a wire rack in a foil-lined sheet pan, 8 minutes per side. Great char and juicy. That worked well here, as did the juice of half a lemon in the salad. I served it all wrapped up in a flour tortilla and look forward to the leftovers. Dill would be nice here, too.

Jollof Rice

Jollof Rice

A successful batch of jollof rice requires a few key ingredients (tomatoes, peppers, onions, a few herbs, spices and some stock) and a perfect sauce-to-rice ratio, so the cooked grains remain separate. I have found that the best, no-fuss way to do this is in the oven. Jollof is typically made with long-grain rice, though in Nigeria, parboiled rice is the norm. Most jollof is prepared over an open flame or on a stovetop. Missing from this oven version is the slightly smoky flavor you get from the little bits of rice that have browned on the bottom of your pan, but that’s nothing a pinch of smoked paprika can’t fix. Serve with braised goat or other stewed meats, and a side of fried plantains.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

FOR THE OBE ATA

1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes with their juices

1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and roughly chopped

½ medium red onion, peeled and roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 red habanero chile, stemmed

2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

FOR THE JOLLOF RICE

½ cup canola or other neutral oil

2 medium red onions, peeled, halved and thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)

3 cups parboiled long-grain rice (such as Carolina Gold or Uncle Ben’s Original), basmati or jasmine rice (about 1¼ pounds)

5 fresh thyme sprigs

1 fresh bay leaf

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups beef, chicken or vegetable stock

Prepare the obe ata: Working in batches if needed, combine all the obe ata ingredients except the canola oil in a blender and purée on high until smooth. The liquid from the can of tomatoes should suffice, but you can add up to ¼ cup of water if necessary to get the purée going. (You should have about 3 cups of purée.)

Heat the 2 tablespoons canola oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Add the purée and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer until the sauce is slightly reduced by about a third of its original volume, 18 to 20 minutes. (It should make about 2 cups. Obe ata can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks, or frozen for up to 1 month.)

Prepare the rice: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat the ½ cup canola oil in a large Dutch oven over medium until shimmering, about 1 minute. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove half the onions to a plate and set aside. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant and translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste, turmeric and smoked paprika, if using, and toast, stirring occasionally, until turmeric is fragrant and tomato paste has deepened to a dark red color, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the obe ata sauce and bring to a simmer over medium heat. The habanero oils love to disperse in the air, so you may want to turn on your stovetop fan or open a window while simmering the obe ata. Stir in the rice, thyme and bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the stock and cover with a lid. Transfer the pot to the oven and cook until rice is just tender, 35 minutes.

Remove the pot from the oven and let sit, covered (no peeking) for 15 minutes. Uncover, fluff the rice with a fork and stir in the reserved sautéed onions. Adjust seasoning, if necessary, and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Serve warm.

TIP: For those interested in cooking the recipe but who (like me) don't use "converted" (parboiled) rice, I suggest you could substitute 2 cups long-grain rice and 2-1/2 cups of stock.

1) solid recipe with superior flavor and great balance. My wife is in love with this.

2) to me, a Nigerian, this doesn’t exactly taste like jollof. In facts it’s probably the least “jollof” tasting jollof I’ve ever had but it’s still delicious

3) recommend cooking on stove as opposed to oven. You will achieve the slight burn to the bottom which provides excellent flavor. I cooked it between 4-5 on electrical stove for 30 min, then left covered 10

I made it with three cups of basmati rice - didn’t change the recipe and came out great!

Chickpea Salad With Cucumber and Roast Lemon Salsa

Chickpea Salad With Cucumber and Roast Lemon Salsa

Memorial Day weekend is the unofficial start of outdoor eating season, and a potato salad must be on the menu. This one has no potato. Chickpeas stand in instead — creamy and substantial, dressed in Greek yogurt, mayonnaise and whole-grain mustard. This salad delivers everything you want from a classic cookout side: the richness, the bulk, the familiar comfort of something cold and scoopable. What tips it somewhere new is the cucumber salsa spooned over the top: lemons, roasted until tender and just charred at the edges, intensify into something jammy and sour, then tossed with cucumber, sweet dill pickles, jalapeño and a good amount of fresh dill. The result is very good alongside whatever else is on the grill.

Yield: 6 servings

1 lemon, thinly sliced (about 12 slices) 

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided 

Fine sea salt and black pepper

3 mini or Persian cucumbers, cut into 1-inch irregular chunks (about 8 ounces total)

¾ cup diced sweet gherkins or sweet dill pickles (about 4 ounces), plus ¼ cup pickle brine

3 spring onions or scallions, thinly sliced

½ cup (packed) roughly chopped fresh dill

1 medium jalapeño, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon maple syrup 

¼ teaspoon celery salt (or fine sea salt) 

2 (20-ounce) jars chickpeas or 2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

½ cup (5 ounces) plain Greek yogurt 

½ cup mayonnaise 

1½ tablespoons whole-grain mustard 

¼ teaspoon nigella seeds, to serve (optional)

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Toss the lemon slices with 1 tablespoon of oil and ⅛ teaspoon of salt on a small parchment-lined baking sheet, and arrange in a single layer. Roast for about 12 minutes, until the lemon is tender and just starting to char around the edges. Set aside to cool briefly, then finely chop.

In a medium bowl, combine the cucumbers, gherkins, pickle brine, spring onion, dill and jalapeño. Stir in the chopped roasted lemon, along with the remaining 5 tablespoons oil, the maple syrup, celery salt and a few grinds of pepper.

In a separate bowl, mix together the chickpeas, yogurt, mayonnaise and mustard, along with ¼ teaspoon of salt and a few grinds of pepper. 

To serve, transfer the chickpeas to a serving platter, spoon over the cucumber salsa and sprinkle with the nigella seeds, if using.

Bún Kèn (Coconut Fish With Noodles)

Bún Kèn (Coconut Fish With Noodles)

This version of bún kèn, a deeply delicious street food specialty of Kiên Giang Province in southern Vietnam, comes from the chef Diep Tran, who traveled to the region while researching “The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook,” written with Cuong Pham and Tien Nguyen. The dish is built by infusing fish stock with aromatics and coconut cream, then ladling this fish curry over rice noodles and topping the bowls with fresh herbs, vegetables and a drizzle of sweet and salty coconut nuoc chăm. While you can often find yellowtail collar at Japanese and Korean markets in the United States, Ms. Tran suggests using a snapper head or grouper head, or any small whole fish that isn’t too oily, if you can’t get your hands on collar.

Yield: 4 servings

For the Stock

1 pound yellowtail collar, or whole small fish

1 shallot, halved

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 lemongrass stalk, bruised with the back of a knife

1 cup cilantro stems, bruised with the back of a knife

For the Coconut Nuoc Chăm

¼ cup fish sauce

2 fresh Thai chiles or other small hot chiles, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon lime juice

1 cup grated palm sugar or granulated sugar (6 ounces)

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut water (7 ounces)

For the Curry

12 tablespoons annatto oil or vegetable oil

1 medium white onion, diced

5 lemongrass stalks, tender white, purple and pale green parts minced

2 ounces cilantro root, minced (½ cup) or 4 ounces cilantro stems, minced (1 cup; see Tip)

2 tablespoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons turmeric powder

½ cup coconut cream or 1 cup coconut milk

6 fresh makrut lime leaves, midribs removed, minced

2 to 4 fresh Thai chiles or other small hot chiles

¼ cup fish sauce

For the Noodles

2 (8-ounce) packages dried vermicelli rice noodles

1 bunch rau răm (Vietnamese coriander)

2 cups bean sprouts

1 bunch basil leaves

1 bunch cilantro leaves

1 carrot, peeled and shredded (see Tip)

1 Japanese cucumber or 2 Persian cucumbers, shredded

1 small green papaya, seeds removed, peeled and shredded

Make the stock: Place the yellowtail collars in a pot large enough to fit them snugly, then add the shallot, peppercorns, lemongrass, cilantro stems and 5 cups water. The fish should be completely covered. If they aren’t, add a bit more water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, strain the stock and reserve the fish, setting it aside to cool. Return the strained stock to the pot, discarding the other solids. When the fish is cool enough to handle, separate the meat from the bones, return the meat to the stock and let stand off heat.

Meanwhile, make the nuoc chăm: In a small pot over high heat, bring all the ingredients to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool before transferring to a jar.

Make the curry: In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons oil and the onion. Spread the onion out evenly in the pan and let it fry without touching it, so it gets slightly charred at the edges, about 5 minutes. Tip the onion and oil into the fish stock.

Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 9 tablespoons oil, the lemongrass, cilantro root and garlic. Stirring constantly, cook until tender and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the turmeric powder and stir for 15 seconds, then tip everything in the saucepan into the fish stock. To the same saucepan, add the coconut cream, makrut lime leaves and chiles, and turn the heat up to high. Use a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula to scrape up any bits of lemongrass, cilantro or garlic that may be stuck to the bottom of the pan. When the cream starts to boil, turn off the heat and let it steep for about 10 minutes. Pour the coconut cream and fish sauce into the stock, turn the heat to low and stir the curry sauce.

While the cream steeps, prepare the noodles: Cook the rice noodles according to the package directions and drain well. In each bowl, layer noodles and fish curry, then top with a pinch of the rau răm, bean sprouts, basil, cilantro, carrot, cucumber and green papaya. Put the rest of the toppings on the table, along with the nuoc chăm, for seasoning.

Tip: When cooking with cilantro root, use as much of the bottom root as possible to make the most of its intensity of flavor. Try not to trim away anything, except for dirt, and soak the roots in water, shaking them off and giving them a good rinse to get rid of any stubborn grit A handheld shredder, which resembles a vegetable peeler with a serrated blade, will make quick work of shredding the cucumber, carrot and green papaya. If you don’t have one, you can finely slice the vegetables with a knife..

Dried makrut leaves are available online but I wouldn't bother. Frozen, yes. Omit or try fresh citrus leaves or dried or fresh peel along with the coconut. Steep a bit, then REMOVE to avoid bitterness. Fresh toppings add texture, color, and interest. Try lemon basil, cilantro leaves, Thai or holy basil. Green papaya is neutral, wet, a bit crunchy. Try slivered rutabaga, celeriac, jicama, daikon, or mild turnip. At the table squeeze, then stir in, some fresh lime - key lime is more authentic.

Phenomenal. My family loved it. Couple of notes. Fish collars are hard to find. I used a few salmon steaks. Fatty fish is the key. I couldn't find rau ram at H-Mart or our local grocery. Not a dealbreaker. The rice vermicelli was way too much. I would use half or less. Last, be careful on step 4! I thought the oil and the lemongrass, et al went into the stockpot. No, it's into the saute pan to make a little roux of all the lemongrass, cilantro stems, etc. THEN they go into the stock pot.

Chicken Karaage

Chicken Karaage

At 750 Myrtle Diner in Brooklyn, Kaoru Ayabe single-fries his chicken karaage low and slow at a steady 320 degrees. In this variation of Japanese fried chicken, inspired by Mr. Ayabe’s wonderfully light and crunchy karaage, boneless thighs are gently seasoned with ginger, soy and sake — plus a hint of sugar for balance — so the flavor of the meat can be appreciated. What’s special about this karaage recipe, beyond the low and slow single fry, is that the marinated chicken pieces get dipped in beaten egg before gaining their craggy armor of starch (corn or potato). Fried in a rippling pool of neutral canola oil, this humble but stellar appetizer is best enjoyed with a carafe of sake or an ice-cold beer.

Yield: 2 to 3 servings

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and finely grated (2 teaspoons)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sake

½ teaspoon granulated sugar

½ teaspoon coarse kosher salt

1 large egg

1 cup cornstarch or potato starch

About 1 quart canola or vegetable oil, for frying

Lemon wedges, mayonnaise and shichimi togarashi (see Tip), for serving (optional)

To a medium bowl, add the chicken, ginger, soy sauce, sake, sugar and salt. Toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Place a wire rack over a large, paper towel-lined sheet pan. Crack the egg into a small bowl and whisk. To a large bowl, add the cornstarch. One by one, dip the chicken into the egg, then into the cornstarch until evenly coated. Set the coated chicken pieces on the left side of the wire rack.

To a medium saucepan, add enough oil to fill a third of the way up. Heat the oil over medium-high to 320 degrees. Turn your hood vent on, if you’ve got one, and open a nearby window, if possible. Working in batches, fry the chicken until crunchy and light brown, adjusting the heat so the oil temperature stays between 300 and 320 degrees, 4 to 6 minutes per batch. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the fried chicken to the right side of the wire rack, away from the portion that was exposed to the raw chicken, to rest slightly.

Serve with the optional (but very delicious) lemon wedges and mayonnaise dusted with togarashi.

Tip: You can find shichimi togarashi, a flavorful Japanese seven-spice blend, in Asian grocery stores and online. But to make your own simplified version in a pinch, stir together ½ teaspoon ground cayenne, ¼ teaspoon ground ginger, ¼ teaspoon sesame seeds and a couple grinds of black pepper.

Hi there! In this particular case, with these proportions and this egg method (which I learned from Kaoru Ayabe, whose karaage is among the best I’ve ever had), I found that cornstarch resulted in a lighter, crisper coating. I know; I was surprised, too.

Green Goddess Chicken Salad Sandwiches

Green Goddess Chicken Salad Sandwiches 

Avocado forms the base of creamy green goddess dressing in this everyday chicken salad recipe. Made with lots of green herbs, capers and scallions, it’s tangy, vinegary and luxuriously creamy without the addition of any dairy or mayonnaise. Feel free to substitute other tender herbs you have on hand — chervil, chives and tarragon would all nod to classic green goddess dressing. For the chicken, you can roast bone-in, skin-on breasts, use leftover chicken or purchase a rotisserie chicken. Breast meat is more traditional for a chicken salad, but if you love thighs, by all means use them here. Pile the chicken salad onto toasted bread with lettuce and tomato for a standout sandwich, or eat it straight from the bowl with salted crackers or pita chips. 

Yield: 4 servings

½ cup chopped scallions (from 3 to 4 scallions)

½ packed cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley

⅓ packed cup coarsely chopped fresh dill

⅓ packed cup coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons drained capers

1 large garlic clove

1 ripe Hass avocado, halved and pitted

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

2 tablespoons white wine or Champagne vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3½ cups cooked shredded chicken breast (from a 3-pound rotisserie chicken)

Toasted bread, for serving

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the scallions, parsley, dill, mint, capers and garlic and process until finely chopped.

Add the avocado, lemon juice, vinegar and olive oil. Season with salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Process until smooth, thick and creamy. Taste for seasonings and add more salt and pepper to taste.

Place the chicken in a large bowl. Add about 1 cup of the dressing and toss well, adding more to taste. Serve immediately, sandwiched between slices of toast, with the rest of the dressing on the side, or cover, placing plastic wrap directly on the surface of the chicken salad to prevent browning, and refrigerate for up to 2 days before serving.

Tip: Subbed chickpeas for chicken to keep this vegan and it turned out delightful. The green mixture itself would also make a lovely dip with crackers or pita chips.

Magnolia Bakery’s Cupcakes

Magnolia Bakery’s Cupcakes

Yield: 24 cupcakes

1 cup (2 sticks) of unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing pans

1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting pans

1½ cups self-rising flour

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two 12-cup muffin tins with cupcake papers. Mix the flours together in a bowl. In a glass measure, mix the milk and vanilla.

In a large bowl, cream the butter with an electric mixer at medium speed until smooth. Add the sugar gradually and beat until fluffy (about 3 minutes). Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Gradually add the flour mixture, alternating with the milk and the vanilla, beating well after each addition. Spoon the batter into muffin cups about ¾ full.

Bake until the tops of the cupcakes spring back when lightly touched, 20 to 22 minutes. Remove cupcakes from the pans and cool on a rack before icing.

Miso-Sesame Vinaigrette That’s Good on Anything

Miso-Sesame Vinaigrette That’s Good on Anything

By J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

This all-purpose miso-sesame vinaigrette is great on a simple salad with lettuces and fresh vegetables, such as cucumbers, tomatoes, sliced onions, radishes, jicama or grated carrots, or in this Chicken and Cabbage Salad. Try it drizzled on an iceberg wedge, over sliced leftover steak, chicken or tofu, or on grilled seafood, served hot or cold. It’s especially good with grilled salmon and spicy greens like watercress, mizuna or arugula.

Yield: 1 cup

2 medium garlic cloves, smashed with the side of a knife

1 small shallot, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons shoyu or tamari

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon light miso paste

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

½ cup grapeseed, vegetable or canola oil

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons toasted white or black sesame seeds

Combine garlic, shallot, shoyu, vinegars, miso and sugar in a blender and blend on high speed until homogenous. (Alternatively, mash garlic and shallots in the bowl of a large granite or marble mortar and pestle into a fine paste using the pestle, then stir in the shoyu, vinegars, miso and sugar.)

With the blender running on medium speed (the liquid should form a vortex but not jump up and splatter on the walls of the blender), slowly drizzle in the grapeseed oil. (If using a mortar and pestle, slowly drizzle in the oil as you stir vigorously with the pestle.)

Transfer to a lidded jar. Stir in the sesame oil and sesame seeds with a spoon. Dressing can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. Shake well before using.

Sheet-Pan Bibimbap

Sheet-Pan Bibimbap

Bibimbap, the Korean mixed rice dish, is a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. The popular dish has multiple origin stories and, like banchan and kimchi, many variations. Cooks who ordinarily keep namul (seasoned vegetable) banchan in the fridge may add them to a bowl with leftover rice and seasonings like spicy-sweet gochujang and nutty sesame oil, for example. Or, if starting their bibimbap from scratch, some may prep each component separately. But here’s a fun way to accomplish everything at once: Roast a melange of bits and bobs on one sheet pan as rice heats and eggs oven-fry on another. The caramelized sweet potato and salty kale in this formula come highly recommended, but you can use any vegetables on hand, reducing cook times for delicate options such as spinach, scallions or asparagus.

Yield: 4 servings

6 ounces oyster mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces

1 medium sweet potato (about 6 ounces), scrubbed and thinly sliced into half-moons

1 small red onion (about 6 ounces), thinly sliced crosswise into half-moons 

3 packed cups coarsely chopped Tuscan or curly kale (from 1 small bunch)

6 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 cups cooked medium-grain white rice, preferably cold leftovers

4 large eggs

4 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, plus more to taste, for serving

4 teaspoons gochujang, plus more to taste, for serving

Kimchi, for serving (optional)

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat oven to 450 degrees.

On a large sheet pan, arrange the mushrooms, sweet potato, red onion and kale into four separate quadrants. Drizzle the vegetables with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat, keeping the types of vegetables separate. Try to not crowd the vegetables; you want them to brown, not steam. Roast on the top rack until the sweet potato is fork-tender, the onion and mushrooms are slightly caramelized and the kale is crispy but not burnt, 20 to 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, place another large sheet pan on the bottom rack to heat. When the vegetables are almost done cooking, in the last 5 minutes or so, remove the heated pan from the oven and evenly drizzle the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil on it. Spread the rice over half of the pan. Crack the eggs onto the other half and carefully transfer to the oven. Bake until the whites are just set and the yolks are still runny, 3 to 6 minutes (this time may vary depending on your oven, so watch it carefully).

To serve, divide the rice evenly among four bowls. Now divide the vegetables evenly as well, placing them in four neat piles over each portion of rice. Use a spatula to slide the eggs over the vegetables. Drizzle each bowl with 1 teaspoon of sesame oil and dollop with 1 teaspoon of gochujang, adding more if desired. Mix everything together with a spoon or chopsticks before diving in, and serve kimchi alongside, if you prefer.

TIP: We loved this but we certainly did not have crispy rice. For my oven, next time I will cook the rice longer and put the eggs in for just two or three minutes. The eggs cooked much faster than the rice warmed/crisped.

Eggs cooked on a sheet pan are actually really good. I add the egg(s) for the last 5 min or so of roasting. The pan is already hot so it doesn’t run and the quality of the sheet pan cooked egg is superb because of the heat on both sides. The best, honestly. Just test the cooking time obviously, learn your oven for this. Mine would probably eviscerate kale at 450 for that long , on topic of oven varieties LOL

Next time I would double the veggies and use both sheet pans for cooking them if I want four servings. Then I can avoid cooking the rice and eggs in a sheet pan and just crisp the rice in a heated cast iron and quickly fry the eggs in a nonstick pan instead.

For the gochuchang, you want to make a sauce (don't use the straight paste!):

2 to 3 tablespoons gochujang paste

1½ tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon maple syrup

You can also add a splash of soy sauce.