Chickpea Salad With Cucumber and Roast Lemon Salsa

Chickpea Salad With Cucumber and Roast Lemon Salsa

Memorial Day weekend is the unofficial start of outdoor eating season, and a potato salad must be on the menu. This one has no potato. Chickpeas stand in instead — creamy and substantial, dressed in Greek yogurt, mayonnaise and whole-grain mustard. This salad delivers everything you want from a classic cookout side: the richness, the bulk, the familiar comfort of something cold and scoopable. What tips it somewhere new is the cucumber salsa spooned over the top: lemons, roasted until tender and just charred at the edges, intensify into something jammy and sour, then tossed with cucumber, sweet dill pickles, jalapeño and a good amount of fresh dill. The result is very good alongside whatever else is on the grill.

Yield: 6 servings

1 lemon, thinly sliced (about 12 slices) 

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided 

Fine sea salt and black pepper

3 mini or Persian cucumbers, cut into 1-inch irregular chunks (about 8 ounces total)

¾ cup diced sweet gherkins or sweet dill pickles (about 4 ounces), plus ¼ cup pickle brine

3 spring onions or scallions, thinly sliced

½ cup (packed) roughly chopped fresh dill

1 medium jalapeño, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon maple syrup 

¼ teaspoon celery salt (or fine sea salt) 

2 (20-ounce) jars chickpeas or 2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

½ cup (5 ounces) plain Greek yogurt 

½ cup mayonnaise 

1½ tablespoons whole-grain mustard 

¼ teaspoon nigella seeds, to serve (optional)

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Toss the lemon slices with 1 tablespoon of oil and ⅛ teaspoon of salt on a small parchment-lined baking sheet, and arrange in a single layer. Roast for about 12 minutes, until the lemon is tender and just starting to char around the edges. Set aside to cool briefly, then finely chop.

In a medium bowl, combine the cucumbers, gherkins, pickle brine, spring onion, dill and jalapeño. Stir in the chopped roasted lemon, along with the remaining 5 tablespoons oil, the maple syrup, celery salt and a few grinds of pepper.

In a separate bowl, mix together the chickpeas, yogurt, mayonnaise and mustard, along with ¼ teaspoon of salt and a few grinds of pepper. 

To serve, transfer the chickpeas to a serving platter, spoon over the cucumber salsa and sprinkle with the nigella seeds, if using.

Bún Kèn (Coconut Fish With Noodles)

Bún Kèn (Coconut Fish With Noodles)

This version of bún kèn, a deeply delicious street food specialty of Kiên Giang Province in southern Vietnam, comes from the chef Diep Tran, who traveled to the region while researching “The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook,” written with Cuong Pham and Tien Nguyen. The dish is built by infusing fish stock with aromatics and coconut cream, then ladling this fish curry over rice noodles and topping the bowls with fresh herbs, vegetables and a drizzle of sweet and salty coconut nuoc chăm. While you can often find yellowtail collar at Japanese and Korean markets in the United States, Ms. Tran suggests using a snapper head or grouper head, or any small whole fish that isn’t too oily, if you can’t get your hands on collar.

Yield: 4 servings

For the Stock

1 pound yellowtail collar, or whole small fish

1 shallot, halved

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 lemongrass stalk, bruised with the back of a knife

1 cup cilantro stems, bruised with the back of a knife

For the Coconut Nuoc Chăm

¼ cup fish sauce

2 fresh Thai chiles or other small hot chiles, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon lime juice

1 cup grated palm sugar or granulated sugar (6 ounces)

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut water (7 ounces)

For the Curry

12 tablespoons annatto oil or vegetable oil

1 medium white onion, diced

5 lemongrass stalks, tender white, purple and pale green parts minced

2 ounces cilantro root, minced (½ cup) or 4 ounces cilantro stems, minced (1 cup; see Tip)

2 tablespoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons turmeric powder

½ cup coconut cream or 1 cup coconut milk

6 fresh makrut lime leaves, midribs removed, minced

2 to 4 fresh Thai chiles or other small hot chiles

¼ cup fish sauce

For the Noodles

2 (8-ounce) packages dried vermicelli rice noodles

1 bunch rau răm (Vietnamese coriander)

2 cups bean sprouts

1 bunch basil leaves

1 bunch cilantro leaves

1 carrot, peeled and shredded (see Tip)

1 Japanese cucumber or 2 Persian cucumbers, shredded

1 small green papaya, seeds removed, peeled and shredded

Make the stock: Place the yellowtail collars in a pot large enough to fit them snugly, then add the shallot, peppercorns, lemongrass, cilantro stems and 5 cups water. The fish should be completely covered. If they aren’t, add a bit more water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, strain the stock and reserve the fish, setting it aside to cool. Return the strained stock to the pot, discarding the other solids. When the fish is cool enough to handle, separate the meat from the bones, return the meat to the stock and let stand off heat.

Meanwhile, make the nuoc chăm: In a small pot over high heat, bring all the ingredients to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool before transferring to a jar.

Make the curry: In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons oil and the onion. Spread the onion out evenly in the pan and let it fry without touching it, so it gets slightly charred at the edges, about 5 minutes. Tip the onion and oil into the fish stock.

Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 9 tablespoons oil, the lemongrass, cilantro root and garlic. Stirring constantly, cook until tender and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the turmeric powder and stir for 15 seconds, then tip everything in the saucepan into the fish stock. To the same saucepan, add the coconut cream, makrut lime leaves and chiles, and turn the heat up to high. Use a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula to scrape up any bits of lemongrass, cilantro or garlic that may be stuck to the bottom of the pan. When the cream starts to boil, turn off the heat and let it steep for about 10 minutes. Pour the coconut cream and fish sauce into the stock, turn the heat to low and stir the curry sauce.

While the cream steeps, prepare the noodles: Cook the rice noodles according to the package directions and drain well. In each bowl, layer noodles and fish curry, then top with a pinch of the rau răm, bean sprouts, basil, cilantro, carrot, cucumber and green papaya. Put the rest of the toppings on the table, along with the nuoc chăm, for seasoning.

Tip: When cooking with cilantro root, use as much of the bottom root as possible to make the most of its intensity of flavor. Try not to trim away anything, except for dirt, and soak the roots in water, shaking them off and giving them a good rinse to get rid of any stubborn grit A handheld shredder, which resembles a vegetable peeler with a serrated blade, will make quick work of shredding the cucumber, carrot and green papaya. If you don’t have one, you can finely slice the vegetables with a knife..

Dried makrut leaves are available online but I wouldn't bother. Frozen, yes. Omit or try fresh citrus leaves or dried or fresh peel along with the coconut. Steep a bit, then REMOVE to avoid bitterness. Fresh toppings add texture, color, and interest. Try lemon basil, cilantro leaves, Thai or holy basil. Green papaya is neutral, wet, a bit crunchy. Try slivered rutabaga, celeriac, jicama, daikon, or mild turnip. At the table squeeze, then stir in, some fresh lime - key lime is more authentic.

Phenomenal. My family loved it. Couple of notes. Fish collars are hard to find. I used a few salmon steaks. Fatty fish is the key. I couldn't find rau ram at H-Mart or our local grocery. Not a dealbreaker. The rice vermicelli was way too much. I would use half or less. Last, be careful on step 4! I thought the oil and the lemongrass, et al went into the stockpot. No, it's into the saute pan to make a little roux of all the lemongrass, cilantro stems, etc. THEN they go into the stock pot.

Chicken Karaage

Chicken Karaage

At 750 Myrtle Diner in Brooklyn, Kaoru Ayabe single-fries his chicken karaage low and slow at a steady 320 degrees. In this variation of Japanese fried chicken, inspired by Mr. Ayabe’s wonderfully light and crunchy karaage, boneless thighs are gently seasoned with ginger, soy and sake — plus a hint of sugar for balance — so the flavor of the meat can be appreciated. What’s special about this karaage recipe, beyond the low and slow single fry, is that the marinated chicken pieces get dipped in beaten egg before gaining their craggy armor of starch (corn or potato). Fried in a rippling pool of neutral canola oil, this humble but stellar appetizer is best enjoyed with a carafe of sake or an ice-cold beer.

Yield: 2 to 3 servings

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and finely grated (2 teaspoons)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sake

½ teaspoon granulated sugar

½ teaspoon coarse kosher salt

1 large egg

1 cup cornstarch or potato starch

About 1 quart canola or vegetable oil, for frying

Lemon wedges, mayonnaise and shichimi togarashi (see Tip), for serving (optional)

To a medium bowl, add the chicken, ginger, soy sauce, sake, sugar and salt. Toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Place a wire rack over a large, paper towel-lined sheet pan. Crack the egg into a small bowl and whisk. To a large bowl, add the cornstarch. One by one, dip the chicken into the egg, then into the cornstarch until evenly coated. Set the coated chicken pieces on the left side of the wire rack.

To a medium saucepan, add enough oil to fill a third of the way up. Heat the oil over medium-high to 320 degrees. Turn your hood vent on, if you’ve got one, and open a nearby window, if possible. Working in batches, fry the chicken until crunchy and light brown, adjusting the heat so the oil temperature stays between 300 and 320 degrees, 4 to 6 minutes per batch. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the fried chicken to the right side of the wire rack, away from the portion that was exposed to the raw chicken, to rest slightly.

Serve with the optional (but very delicious) lemon wedges and mayonnaise dusted with togarashi.

Tip: You can find shichimi togarashi, a flavorful Japanese seven-spice blend, in Asian grocery stores and online. But to make your own simplified version in a pinch, stir together ½ teaspoon ground cayenne, ¼ teaspoon ground ginger, ¼ teaspoon sesame seeds and a couple grinds of black pepper.

Hi there! In this particular case, with these proportions and this egg method (which I learned from Kaoru Ayabe, whose karaage is among the best I’ve ever had), I found that cornstarch resulted in a lighter, crisper coating. I know; I was surprised, too.

Green Goddess Chicken Salad Sandwiches

Green Goddess Chicken Salad Sandwiches 

Avocado forms the base of creamy green goddess dressing in this everyday chicken salad recipe. Made with lots of green herbs, capers and scallions, it’s tangy, vinegary and luxuriously creamy without the addition of any dairy or mayonnaise. Feel free to substitute other tender herbs you have on hand — chervil, chives and tarragon would all nod to classic green goddess dressing. For the chicken, you can roast bone-in, skin-on breasts, use leftover chicken or purchase a rotisserie chicken. Breast meat is more traditional for a chicken salad, but if you love thighs, by all means use them here. Pile the chicken salad onto toasted bread with lettuce and tomato for a standout sandwich, or eat it straight from the bowl with salted crackers or pita chips. 

Yield: 4 servings

½ cup chopped scallions (from 3 to 4 scallions)

½ packed cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley

⅓ packed cup coarsely chopped fresh dill

⅓ packed cup coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons drained capers

1 large garlic clove

1 ripe Hass avocado, halved and pitted

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

2 tablespoons white wine or Champagne vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3½ cups cooked shredded chicken breast (from a 3-pound rotisserie chicken)

Toasted bread, for serving

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the scallions, parsley, dill, mint, capers and garlic and process until finely chopped.

Add the avocado, lemon juice, vinegar and olive oil. Season with salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Process until smooth, thick and creamy. Taste for seasonings and add more salt and pepper to taste.

Place the chicken in a large bowl. Add about 1 cup of the dressing and toss well, adding more to taste. Serve immediately, sandwiched between slices of toast, with the rest of the dressing on the side, or cover, placing plastic wrap directly on the surface of the chicken salad to prevent browning, and refrigerate for up to 2 days before serving.

Tip: Subbed chickpeas for chicken to keep this vegan and it turned out delightful. The green mixture itself would also make a lovely dip with crackers or pita chips.

Magnolia Bakery’s Cupcakes

Magnolia Bakery’s Cupcakes

Yield: 24 cupcakes

1 cup (2 sticks) of unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing pans

1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting pans

1½ cups self-rising flour

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two 12-cup muffin tins with cupcake papers. Mix the flours together in a bowl. In a glass measure, mix the milk and vanilla.

In a large bowl, cream the butter with an electric mixer at medium speed until smooth. Add the sugar gradually and beat until fluffy (about 3 minutes). Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Gradually add the flour mixture, alternating with the milk and the vanilla, beating well after each addition. Spoon the batter into muffin cups about ¾ full.

Bake until the tops of the cupcakes spring back when lightly touched, 20 to 22 minutes. Remove cupcakes from the pans and cool on a rack before icing.

Miso-Sesame Vinaigrette That’s Good on Anything

Miso-Sesame Vinaigrette That’s Good on Anything

By J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

This all-purpose miso-sesame vinaigrette is great on a simple salad with lettuces and fresh vegetables, such as cucumbers, tomatoes, sliced onions, radishes, jicama or grated carrots, or in this Chicken and Cabbage Salad. Try it drizzled on an iceberg wedge, over sliced leftover steak, chicken or tofu, or on grilled seafood, served hot or cold. It’s especially good with grilled salmon and spicy greens like watercress, mizuna or arugula.

Yield: 1 cup

2 medium garlic cloves, smashed with the side of a knife

1 small shallot, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons shoyu or tamari

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon light miso paste

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

½ cup grapeseed, vegetable or canola oil

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons toasted white or black sesame seeds

Combine garlic, shallot, shoyu, vinegars, miso and sugar in a blender and blend on high speed until homogenous. (Alternatively, mash garlic and shallots in the bowl of a large granite or marble mortar and pestle into a fine paste using the pestle, then stir in the shoyu, vinegars, miso and sugar.)

With the blender running on medium speed (the liquid should form a vortex but not jump up and splatter on the walls of the blender), slowly drizzle in the grapeseed oil. (If using a mortar and pestle, slowly drizzle in the oil as you stir vigorously with the pestle.)

Transfer to a lidded jar. Stir in the sesame oil and sesame seeds with a spoon. Dressing can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. Shake well before using.

Sheet-Pan Bibimbap

Sheet-Pan Bibimbap

Bibimbap, the Korean mixed rice dish, is a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. The popular dish has multiple origin stories and, like banchan and kimchi, many variations. Cooks who ordinarily keep namul (seasoned vegetable) banchan in the fridge may add them to a bowl with leftover rice and seasonings like spicy-sweet gochujang and nutty sesame oil, for example. Or, if starting their bibimbap from scratch, some may prep each component separately. But here’s a fun way to accomplish everything at once: Roast a melange of bits and bobs on one sheet pan as rice heats and eggs oven-fry on another. The caramelized sweet potato and salty kale in this formula come highly recommended, but you can use any vegetables on hand, reducing cook times for delicate options such as spinach, scallions or asparagus.

Yield: 4 servings

6 ounces oyster mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces

1 medium sweet potato (about 6 ounces), scrubbed and thinly sliced into half-moons

1 small red onion (about 6 ounces), thinly sliced crosswise into half-moons 

3 packed cups coarsely chopped Tuscan or curly kale (from 1 small bunch)

6 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 cups cooked medium-grain white rice, preferably cold leftovers

4 large eggs

4 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, plus more to taste, for serving

4 teaspoons gochujang, plus more to taste, for serving

Kimchi, for serving (optional)

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat oven to 450 degrees.

On a large sheet pan, arrange the mushrooms, sweet potato, red onion and kale into four separate quadrants. Drizzle the vegetables with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat, keeping the types of vegetables separate. Try to not crowd the vegetables; you want them to brown, not steam. Roast on the top rack until the sweet potato is fork-tender, the onion and mushrooms are slightly caramelized and the kale is crispy but not burnt, 20 to 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, place another large sheet pan on the bottom rack to heat. When the vegetables are almost done cooking, in the last 5 minutes or so, remove the heated pan from the oven and evenly drizzle the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil on it. Spread the rice over half of the pan. Crack the eggs onto the other half and carefully transfer to the oven. Bake until the whites are just set and the yolks are still runny, 3 to 6 minutes (this time may vary depending on your oven, so watch it carefully).

To serve, divide the rice evenly among four bowls. Now divide the vegetables evenly as well, placing them in four neat piles over each portion of rice. Use a spatula to slide the eggs over the vegetables. Drizzle each bowl with 1 teaspoon of sesame oil and dollop with 1 teaspoon of gochujang, adding more if desired. Mix everything together with a spoon or chopsticks before diving in, and serve kimchi alongside, if you prefer.

TIP: We loved this but we certainly did not have crispy rice. For my oven, next time I will cook the rice longer and put the eggs in for just two or three minutes. The eggs cooked much faster than the rice warmed/crisped.

Eggs cooked on a sheet pan are actually really good. I add the egg(s) for the last 5 min or so of roasting. The pan is already hot so it doesn’t run and the quality of the sheet pan cooked egg is superb because of the heat on both sides. The best, honestly. Just test the cooking time obviously, learn your oven for this. Mine would probably eviscerate kale at 450 for that long , on topic of oven varieties LOL

Next time I would double the veggies and use both sheet pans for cooking them if I want four servings. Then I can avoid cooking the rice and eggs in a sheet pan and just crisp the rice in a heated cast iron and quickly fry the eggs in a nonstick pan instead.

For the gochuchang, you want to make a sauce (don't use the straight paste!):

2 to 3 tablespoons gochujang paste

1½ tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon maple syrup

You can also add a splash of soy sauce.

Chocolate Zucchini Loaf Cake

Chocolate Zucchini Loaf Cake

This simple, one-bowl loaf cake is a sweet way to make the most of zucchini season. Chocolate cake batter is flecked with shreds of raw zucchini and studded with bittersweet chocolate chips for a summertime cake that’s fit for either breakfast or dessert. While some recipes call for squeezing the excess water out of the shredded zucchini, this loaf cake takes full advantage of the summer vegetable: The zucchini is taken directly from the grater to the bowl for additional moisture. The resulting cake strikes the perfect balance; it's rich and fudgy, but still maintains a tender crumb. The cake will keep on the counter for 4 to 5 days, loosely covered, and only gets better with age.

Yield: 1 loaf (about 8 servings)

Nonstick cooking spray or neutral oil

2 large eggs

1½ cups/330 grams packed light brown sugar

¾ cup/180 milliliters neutral oil (such as vegetable or safflower)

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2 cups/280 grams lightly packed coarsely grated zucchini (from about 1 large or 2 small zucchini)

1¾ cups/223 grams all-purpose flour

⅔ cup/63 grams unsweetened natural cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup/173 grams bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips

1 tablespoon coarse sugar (such as turbinado or Demerara)

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray and line with a strip of parchment paper that hangs over the long sides to create a sling.

In a large bowl, vigorously whisk together the eggs, light brown sugar, oil, vanilla extract and salt until smooth and glossy, about 30 seconds. Add the grated zucchini and mix with a rubber spatula until incorporated.

Using a fine-mesh strainer, sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and baking soda directly into the bowl and stir with a rubber spatula just until combined and no pockets of unincorporated flour remain. (Try not to overmix.) Add all but 1 tablespoon of the chocolate chips to the batter and stir until evenly distributed.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan. Sprinkle the top with coarse sugar and the reserved chocolate chips, pressing them in slightly so they stick. Bake until the cake puffs slightly and a skewer or cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean with just a few moist crumbs attached or with smudges of melted chocolate chips (the chips will be dark brown versus the lighter color of uncooked cake batter), 75 to 80 minutes.

Let the loaf cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Using the parchment paper, lift the cake out of the pan and let cool completely on a rack before slicing, about 2 hours.

Tip: The cake can be baked in a 9-by-2-inch round cake or springform pan. Grease the pan and line the bottom with a parchment paper round. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean with just a few moist crumbs attached, 50 to 55 minutes.

Last week I asked about substituting fat-free Greek yogurt for some of the oil. I figured it out and it was perfect - instead of 6oz of oil I used 2oz oil and 3oz of yogurt. Delicious, and eliminated 2/3 of the oil. Super moist and chocolatey.

I have tried many zucchini breads and cakes, but was always bothered by their oiliness. I have now made this one twice substituting the 3/4 cup oil with 1/2 cup buttermilk and 1/4 cup either oil or melted butter or combination of the two ( to equal 1/4 cup). Found that hint on the King Arthur baking site. It really works well.

Salmon and Cherry Tomato Curry

Salmon and Cherry Tomato Curry

Poaching salmon is a remarkably foolproof way to prepare a flavorful dinner, especially when you do so in a pot of rich and fragrant coconut milk, radiant from sweet cherry tomatoes and spicy from chile and ginger. If using a wild salmon such as sockeye, simmer over the lowest possible heat setting and stick to the lower end of the cooking window. The gentle approach of poaching prevents overcooking the salmon flesh, regardless of the variety chosen. As with most curries, rice is the answer underneath.

Yield: 4 servings

4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, skin removed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons ghee or coconut oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 bird’s-eye chile, or other small chile, sliced

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

1 pound cherry tomatoes

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk

5 ounces chopped fresh spinach or baby spinach 

Cooked rice, for serving

¼ cup torn or chopped mint, basil or cilantro leaves

Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper on both sides. Set aside.

In a large lidded skillet or saucepan, melt the ghee over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger and chile, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until golden brown and fragrant. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cumin seeds and toast for 15 seconds, then stir in the tomatoes, coriander and turmeric.

Stir in the coconut milk and season with salt to taste. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, uncovered, until liquid is slightly reduced and the tomato skins are bursting.

Stir in the spinach and gently nestle the salmon fillets into the curry, submerging as much as possible. Cover and simmer over medium-low until salmon is cooked through, 4 to 7 minutes. Serve over rice and garnish with herbs.

Stir-Fried Salt and Pepper Dumplings

Stir-Fried Salt and Pepper Dumplings

Frozen potstickers get the stir-fry treatment in this speedy, comforting weeknight dinner that comes together in one pan. A wok, with its curved sides and excellent ability to distribute heat, is always the superior stir-fry vessel, and for this recipe, it allows for the dumplings to be tossed easily and cooked evenly. A large, preferably nonstick, skillet will also do the job, but make sure to handle the dumplings gently, shaking the pan to keep them moving. The Cantonese salt and pepper seasoning, more commonly used in dishes like salt and pepper tofu, is not a typical seasoning for dumplings, but it injects an aromatic salty-sweet note that makes earthy green beans and the pillowy dumplings feel fresh and new. 

Yield: 4 servings

For the Salt and Pepper Seasoning

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

For the Dumplings

4 scallions

2 tablespoons canola or grapeseed oil

1 pound frozen potsticker dumplings (not thawed)

10 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces 

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

½ to 1 Fresno or Thai chile, roughly chopped

Prepare the salt and pepper seasoning: Combine the salt, sugar, white pepper, five-spice powder and ground ginger in a small bowl and stir to combine. Set aside.

Prepare the dumplings: Separate the white and green parts of the scallions. Cut the white parts of the scallions into 1-inch pieces. Thinly slice the green parts.

Heat a wok or large (12-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high. When hot, add the oil and the potstickers, and gently stir-fry for 1 minute, shaking the pan and tossing them gently, just to soften them slightly.

Add the green beans, white parts of the scallions and the ginger; season with salt and toss to combine. Add 3 tablespoons of water, cover (a sheet pan works here) and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. (If your dumplings contain meat, cook for an extra 1 to 2 minutes, or according to packet instructions, adding a tablespoon or two more water if the skillet is dry.)

Uncover and, using a flat spatula, gently lift the dumplings off the surface of the pan to loosen them from the pan. Add the green parts of the scallions, the chile and 2 teaspoons of the salt and pepper seasoning and shake the pan, tossing gently to coat.

Carefully transfer the dumplings and green beans among bowls and top with more of the salt and pepper seasoning. The seasoning is punchy and salty, so add as little or as much as you like.

Carrot Cake Butter Mochi

Carrot Cake Butter Mochi

This party-size dessert, with the distinct flavors of carrot cake and the unique squishy texture of butter mochi, is a mashup made in heaven. Butter mochi is a treat that’s on the table of just about any celebration in Hawaii and many families have their own safeguarded recipes. The gentle buttery flavor is quite versatile, lending itself to customization, like this generously spiced version that’s packed with toasted coconut, grated carrots and golden raisins. The tart cream cheese glaze gets showered in crystallized ginger and more toasted coconut, echoing their warm notes in the cake. Mochi’s going to be softest the same day it’s made, but keeps really well in the fridge for up to 4 days. 

Yield: At least 12 servings

For the cake

6 tablespoons/84 grams unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the pan

1 cup/90 grams shredded unsweetened coconut

3 cups/454 grams mochiko (sweet rice flour), such as Koda Farms brand (see Tip)

1½ cups/300 grams sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or ½ teaspoon fine salt

½ teaspoon ground ginger 

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 (13.5-ounce) can/about 1⅔ cups full-fat coconut milk

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon freshly grated peeled ginger

2 cups/180 grams coarsely grated carrots (from about 3 medium carrots, peeled) 

¾ cup/124 grams golden raisins

For the glaze

4 ounces/113 grams cream cheese, cut into pieces and softened

1 cup/123 grams powdered sugar, sifted

1 tablespoon lemon juice, plus more as needed

¼ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or a pinch of fine salt

¼ cup/40 grams chopped crystallized ginger

Heat the oven to 350 degrees and arrange a rack in the center. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan then line with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, toast the shredded coconut for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until it starts to become lightly golden and fragrant. Immediately scrape into a bowl to cool completely. Wipe out the saucepan.

In the same medium saucepan, heat the butter over medium until it bubbles rapidly. Continue to cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the bubbles become foamy and toasty brown flecks appear. Take it off the heat and use the spoon to scrape and release any browned bits off the bottom. Pour the browned butter into a medium heat-safe bowl and let cool slightly.

In a large bowl, whisk together the mochiko, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, ground ginger, cardamom and ½ cup/45 grams of the toasted coconut (reserve the remaining for the top). Make a small well in the center and set aside.

To the bowl with the browned butter, add the coconut milk, eggs, vanilla and grated ginger and whisk until evenly combined. Pour the wet ingredients into the well of the dry ingredients, and whisk thoroughly until no lumps or dry pockets remain. Using a flexible spatula, fold in the grated carrots and raisins until evenly distributed.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, spread evenly and bake for 1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes, until the top is crackly and golden brown, and the sides start to pull away from the pan. 

Let cool in the pan for 20 minutes, then flip it over onto a cutting board, remove the parchment and flip again onto a wire rack so the top is facing up to cool completely, 30 to 45 minutes.

Make the glaze:

In a medium bowl, mix together the cream cheese, powdered sugar, lemon juice and salt, starting slowly until everything comes together, then whisking more vigorously until no lumps remain and the glaze is the texture of plain yogurt. (If the glaze is too thick, add a teaspoon of lemon juice at a time and whisk to desired texture.) Pour the glaze over the cooled cake and smooth it into an even layer, then top with the reserved toasted coconut and the chopped crystallized ginger.

Cut the mochi into squares and serve immediately. Store any leftovers in the fridge for up to 4 days.

Tip: Butter mochi’s chewy marshmallow-like bite comes from mochiko, a sweet rice flour that can be found in many Asian grocery stores and online. Using the Koda Farms brand produces the ideal crumb for this cake.