Prawn toast with yuzu mayonnaise, coriander and mint

Prawn toast with yuzu mayonnaise, coriander and mint - Chef Dan Hong

Ingredients

1 large sourdough loaf

For sprinkling: sesame seeds

For deep-frying: vegetable oil

Prawn mousse

600 gm uncooked prawn meat

1 eggwhite

1 tbsp sesame oil

3 tsp caster sugar

2 tsp fine salt

2 tbsp thinly sliced coriander stems

Yuzu mayonnaise

1 egg yolk

15 ml yuzu juice (see note)

1/3 tsp yuzukosh (see note)

1 small garlic clove, finely grated

170 ml grapeseed oil

Nuoc cham

70 gm sugar

70 ml white vinegar

70 ml fish sauce

3½ tsp lime juice

Herb salad

1 small handful of coriander leaves, picked

1 small handful of round mint leaves

1 small handful of Vietnamese mint leaves

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

For prawn mousse, put ingredients in a food processor and pulse to a coarse paste. Resist the urge to make it too smooth because you want texture. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to firm up.

For yuzu mayonnaise, put ingredients except the oil into a small food processor. Process until smooth. With the motor running, pour in the oil in a slow and steady stream. The mixture should start to emulsify and make a mayonnaise. Season with salt to taste.

Cut the ends off the bread and slice it into 8mm slices. Spread the prawn mousse in a 1cm layer on the slices with a butter knife. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Fill a heavy-based saucepan to a third full with oil and heat to 180C or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil turns golden in 15 seconds. Fry each piece of toast separately until golden and prawn mousse is cooked (3-5 minutes). Check if the mousse is fully cooked. If not, deep-fry the toast for another minute or two. Drain on paper towels, then cut each toast into 4-5 slices.

For the nuoc cham, whisk together ingredients and 70ml water until the sugar has dissolved. This sauce can be kept in a sterilised jar in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.

For herb salad, mix the herbs and spring onions in a bowl, then dress with 2½ tbsp nuoc cham (reserve remainder for another use).

To serve, top each piece of toast with yuzu mayonnaise and garnish with fresh herb salad.

Note Yuzukosh is salted yuzu rind mixed with chillies and sold in jars at Japanese grocers and select Asian grocers, where you will also find yuzu juice sold in bottles. This recipe is from Mr Hong ($49.99, hbk), published by Murdoch Books and has been reproduced with GT style changes.

Parchment-Steamed Fish With Buttered Radishes

Parchment-Steamed Fish With Buttered Radishes

These aromatic parcels of spoon-tender white fish, sweet steamed radishes and peppery greens are a delight to unwrap at the table, like Christmas presents. Baked in parchment or “en papillote,” the fish cooks gently, emanating the dynamic aromas of chile, garlic and scallions and a good smattering of salt. Meanwhile, the radishes lend their pink juices to the broth that forms naturally from the fish and vegetables. The gentle, soothing tastes here are undeniably savory and surprisingly flavorful considering the ingredients are few. Though this recipe makes enough for two, you can easily double or triple the amounts to feed a crowd, making it great for entertaining.

Yield: 2 servings

2 (4-ounce) meaty white fish fillets, such as cod loin, halibut or haddock, 1 to 2 inches thick 

Salt 

2 scallions, trimmed, cut into 3-inch segments, then thinly sliced lengthwise

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

½ to 1 small fresh red chile, such as Fresno, jalapeño or Korean gochu, thinly sliced into rings

1 bunch halved breakfast radishes or quartered red radishes, plus their green tops

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Flaky sea salt (optional)

Lay two large rectangular sheets of parchment paper side by side on a large sheet pan. Place a fillet in the center of each sheet and gently season the fish with salt all over. Top with the scallions, garlic and chile. Arrange the radishes and their greens alongside or around the fish and dot the radishes with the butter. Drizzle the olive oil over the fish and radish greens. Season everything with salt or, if using, flaky sea salt.

Wrap the fillets: Bring the two long sides of each parchment sheet up to meet each other, then fold them at the top edge to create a seal. Twist the two ends to seal each parcel; they should look like wrapped candies. At this point, you can bake them or store them in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the sheet pan with the two parcels on it in the oven and bake until the fish is flaky and opaque at the center and the radishes light pink and tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

Transfer the whole parcels, as they are, onto plates and have guests open them at the table. (Be sure to warn them about the hot steam.) If desired, let them sprinkle their fish with a little flaky sea salt before eating. Spoons are nice for this dish, so people can enjoy the buttery pink broth along with the fish, radishes and greens.

TIP: Make this! So light, nourishing and flavorful. Prep was pretty lowkey.

My TJ's cod fillets came in a pack of three totaling 12 oz., so I made 1.5x the recipe. The 1.5x recipe still fit on one sheet pan, and combined with some buttered sour toast (TJ's French loaf, so delicious) was just enough to feed two tbh. The radishes I had didn't come with greens, so I used rainbow chard that had been wilting in the corner of my fridge and it worked great. Thank you Eric Kim ~

I saw this recipe and tried it out right away with fresh cod back fillets. Especially the fresh radish leaves are an uncommon but very aromatic ingredient which most people would regrettably throw away. The only slight variation I would suggest to lovers of Asian flavors is the addition of some thinly sliced lemongrass for a truly delightful taste experience.

This recipe is simple and delicious as it is written, and works with a variety of fish. I've made it several times and changed the radishes to other root vegetables like skinny li'l carrots or Tokyo turnips, and added a variety of fresh herbs depending on what I had on hand. Like the previous reviewer, I've used Asian (Thai) seasoning like fresh ginger, lemongrass, cilantro, and lime leaf with great success. I also like to add acid like fresh lemon or lime after opening the pouch.

Marion Cunningham’s Lemon Pancakes

Marion Cunningham’s Lemon Pancakes

These spectacular pancakes, adapted from a Marion Cunningham recipe, are made with cottage cheese, lemon peel and beaten egg whites, which makes them puff up like a soufflé. You have to whip the egg whites using an electric mixer, so this is definitely a weekend or holiday affair, but goodness, are they ever worth it. Serve with blueberries or raspberries and a dollop of plain yogurt.

Yield: 12 three-inch pancakes

3 eggs, separated

¼ cup all-purpose flour

¾ cup cottage cheese

¼ cup (half a stick) butter, melted, plus more butter for greasing skillet

2 tablespoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

In a bowl, stir together the egg yolks, flour, cottage cheese, butter, sugar, salt and lemon zest until well mixed. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks.

With large spoon or spatula, fold whites into yolk mixture, stirring gently until there are no yellow or white streaks.

Heat skillet or griddle over medium heat. Grease lightly and spoon out about three large tablespoons of batter for each pancake. Cook slowly for about 1 ½ minutes, then turn pancake over and cook for about 30 seconds. Keep pancakes warm in 250-degree oven until ready to serve.

Rigatoni With White Bolognese

Rigatoni With White Bolognese

Yield: 4 servings

Extra virgin olive oil

½ sweet onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound mild Italian pork sausage meat, removed from casings

1 pound ground beef (not lean)

1 ½ cups dry Italian white wine

1 cube beef bouillon dissolved in 2 cups simmering water

1 ½ ounces dried porcini mushrooms rehydrated in 3 cups lukewarm water

⅓ cup heavy cream

1 pound rigatoni

¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Add enough oil to a large, deep sauté pan to coat the base and place over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the onion, carrots and celery and sauté until glassy and just tender, about 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the sausage and beef to the pan, breaking it into walnut-size pieces, and brown well.

Pour in the wine and keep at a rapid simmer until the pan is almost dry. Then pour in 1 ½ cups beef bouillon and lower the heat to medium. Simmer gently, uncovered, until the bouillon is nearly gone, stirring now and then. Meanwhile, chop the rehydrated porcini into small pieces, reserving the liquid.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add mushroom liquid to the sauce to cover the meat halfway (about 1 cup) along with the porcini and continue simmering until the sauce is loose but not soupy, about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and pepper; it should be highly seasoned. When the consistency is right, fold the cream in. Remove from the heat and cover.

When the pasta water is at a full boil, add the rigatoni and cook until still firm, but not hard, in the center. When the pasta is almost done, scoop out 1 cup of pasta water and reserve. Drain the pasta and then return it to the pot. Pour the pasta sauce on top and fold in with a wooden spoon. The pasta should not be dry. Add a little pasta water or mushroom liquid to loosen it. (It will continue to soak up sauce on the way to the table.) Serve in one large bowl or in individual bowls, passing the cheese at the table.

Slow-Cooker Honey-Soy Braised Pork With Lime and Ginger

Slow-Cooker Honey-Soy Braised Pork With Lime and Ginger

Here to save your weeknight life: a slow-cooker main that’s truly “set-it-and-forget-it,” with results that taste like they required significantly more effort. This rich and flavorful pork takes about 5 minutes to throw together in the morning. Before dinner, just simmer the sauce — a sweet-salty mix of soy and honey — until it’s syrupy, shred the meat, add a flurry of fresh herbs and you’re done. The meat is a wonderfully simple anchor, and you can build a meal around it: Add lettuce cups and kimchi or serve it over rice, whole grains or even tortillas.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

3 to 4 pounds boneless, skinless pork shoulder, trimmed of big hunks of fat and cut in half

8 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger (from one 3-inch piece)

1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest and 2 tablespoons juice (from 1 lime), plus more lime wedges for serving

1 cup tamari or low-sodium soy sauce (see Tip)

1 cup honey

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

Cooked rice, noodles or lettuce cups, for serving

Toasted sesame seeds, sliced scallions and chopped cilantro, for topping

Place the pork in a 6- to 8-quart slow-cooker. Scatter the garlic, ginger, red-pepper flakes and lime zest over the top. In a liquid measuring cup, whisk together the tamari, honey and sesame oil, then pour it over the pork. Using tongs, turn to coat all sides of the pork in the sauce, and spoon some over the top so that some of the garlic and ginger is on top of the pork. Cover and cook on low until the pork is very tender and shreds easily with a fork, 8 to 9 hours; it will hold well on warm. (If you are home and able to flip the pork once during cooking, that will help the flavors distribute evenly on the meat and make the color uniform. If not, it will be fine.)

Using tongs, transfer the pork from the slow-cooker to a serving platter or large, shallow serving bowl. Using a ladle, skim excess fat off the surface of the cooking liquid, if desired. Carefully pour the sauce into a large pot. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium-high heat and let it simmer until reduced and slightly syrupy, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, coarsely shred the pork using two forks.

Sprinkle the lime juice over the top of the meat. Drizzle about half the sauce over the top of the shredded meat, tossing to evenly combine. Serve over rice or noodles or in lettuce cups. Top with sesame seeds, scallions and cilantro. Pass the remaining sauce at the table, if desired, as well as extra lime wedges and red-pepper flakes.

Tip: Tamari, a gluten-free Japanese fermented soy product similar to soy sauce, is generally a little less salty than grocery store soy sauce, and it works slightly better in this recipe.

I used an Instant Pot and it worked well! Cooked on high for 30 minutes and then natural release (it was over an hour before I opened it up). It was tender and there was no burned taste. I also used coconut aminos instead of tamari or soy sauce and it was not salty at all. I used a lot a red chili powder instead of the flakes and it came out with a nice spice balance of sweet and spicy. I would have used much less sesame oil since the sauce at the end was too oily.

To make this on the stove instead of a slow cooker: heat high heat oil in a Dutch oven. Cut meat in 2-3 pieces, season with salt and pepper, and sear on all sides until golden brown. Will probably take 15 mins. Meanwhile, chop your ginger and garlic. Remove the meat from the pan. Sauté aromatics. Add sauce to the pan, scrape up the burnt bits of pork, bring to a boil. Put meat back in the pot and bring to a boil. Cover and put in a 250 oven for 4 hours (for about 4 lb of meat).

Holiday Wine-Braised Short Ribs

Holiday Wine-Braised Short Ribs

These deliciously flavorful and tender short ribs, from Shaw Fodor, a D.C.-based home cook born in Chengdu, China, can and should be made up to two days ahead. This is necessary for the depth of flavor on this tough cut, which also requires long, slow braising for tenderness. But the bonus with this dish, unlike with brisket, is there is no extra slicing needed before reheating, only removing the fat that solidifies on top after it’s been refrigerated. And don’t let the many ingredients scare you. The wine, spices, brown sugar and ketchup — even some ginger ale — add balanced layers of savory sweetness to this dish. If you wish, you can add a hot pepper to the pot for a bit of heat. A welcome Sichuan inclusion is the chile oil for those who like an extra hot kick. Serve with root vegetables and plenty of jasmine rice to soak up the abundant pan juices.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

6 pounds bone-in short ribs (at least 1 ½ inches thick), cut into 2- to 4-inch pieces

Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large yellow onion, diced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon curry powder

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon ketchup

2 cups dry red wine

2 cups ginger ale or water 

2 teaspoons soy sauce 

1 large tomato, diced 

1 jalapeño (optional), halved 

3 sprigs fresh rosemary 

3 bay leaves

2 carrots, cut on the diagonal into 2-inch pieces

2 celery stalks, halved crosswise

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or parsley, for serving

Sichuan chile oil (optional), homemade or store-bought, for serving

Heat oven to 250 degrees.

Place short ribs on a plate and season with salt and pepper. Warm olive oil in a 7-quart Dutch oven (or other large, heavy ovenproof pot with a lid) over medium heat. Using tongs, sear meat for about 3 minutes per side to give it some color. Return the pieces to the plate, reserving the oil and fat in the pot. 

Add onion to the Dutch oven and stir occasionally until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in cumin, curry powder, cinnamon, brown sugar and ketchup. Add meat along with red wine, ginger ale, soy sauce, tomato, jalapeño (if using), rosemary, bay leaves, carrots, and lastly the celery. Cover and transfer to the oven. 

Cook for about 4 hours, until the meat is fork-tender and falls off the bones. Remove and discard the celery, rosemary, bay leaves and jalapeño (if used). Let cool in the Dutch oven, then chill in the refrigerator at least overnight and up to 2 days.  

When ready to serve, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove and discard the solidified fat on top of the meat and reheat the short ribs, covered, in the oven until warmed through, about 20 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle with cilantro or parsley and serve with a small bowl of Sichuan chile oil if you’d like.

Miso Broiled Tofu

Miso Broiled Tofu

For tofu with crisp edges and custardy middles, give it just 15 minutes under the broiler. The technique is inspired by Nobu Matsuhisa’s miso-broiled black cod, which combines miso and sugar to create a charred crust that also insulates the protein, preventing it from toughening. Tearing the tofu into jagged pieces — as opposed to sliced cubes or rectangles — creates more nooks and crannies for the broiler to singe, creating yet more texture. Eat any way you would enjoy baked tofu, perhaps with steamed rice and a green vegetable (broil green beans or asparagus for 5 to 8 minutes), or over salad greens (in which case you’ll want to make a double batch of the miso marinade to dress your lettuces).

Yield: 4 servings

2 (14-ounce) blocks extrafirm tofu, sliced lengthwise 1-inch-thick

2 tablespoons brown sugar (light or dark)

2 tablespoons white miso paste

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

¼ to ½ teaspoon ground cayenne

Arrange tofu slices on a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. Cover with another kitchen towel (or paper towels), and place a flat cutting board or sheet pan on top. Stack a few cans or a skillet on top to weigh it down. Let tofu drain for 15 to 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the sugar, miso, soy sauce, rice vinegar, oil and cayenne until smooth. Tear the tofu into bite-size pieces (about 1 inch), and add to the miso mixture. Stir gently to coat. You can cook the tofu right away, or cover and refrigerate to marinate for up to 24 hours.

When you’re ready to cook, arrange a rack about 6 inches from the broiler and heat broiler to high. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil. Remove the tofu from the marinade and arrange on the sheet pan. Reserve marinade.

Broil, flipping occasionally through with a spatula, until browned and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes total. (Broilers have hot spots, so check the tofu periodically and rotate the pan and tofu as needed so everything crisps.) Drizzle with the reserved marinade.

Steak à l’Échalote (Seared Flatiron With Shallot Sauce)

Steak à l’Échalote (Seared Flatiron With Shallot Sauce)

Like a number of chefs, Daniel Boulud offers several options for enhancing a simple steak. Au poivre is one classic choice — but he also suggests this shallot mix, a quick pan sauce to dress the meat with an oniony tang sharpened with red wine and graced with buttery richness.

Yield: 4 servings

⅔ cup low-sodium beef broth

2 (1-pound) flatiron steaks, at room temperature

Sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup minced shallots (from 2 large shallots)

1 sprig fresh thyme, leaves picked (about 1 teaspoon)

¼ cup red wine vinegar

¼ cup minced fresh parsley

1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard

Watercress or baby arugula microgreens, for garnish (optional)

Add broth to a small saucepan. Simmer over medium-high until reduced by half, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside.

Pat steaks dry with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper. Place a wire rack inside a baking sheet and set aside.

Heat a large skillet (preferably cast iron or carbon steel and big enough to fit both pieces of steak) over medium-high. Add olive oil and heat until oil is shimmering, about 1½ minutes. (Note: If you do not have a skillet large enough to accommodate both steaks, use two skillets, adding 1 teaspoon of oil to each. Then use one of the skillets to prepare the sauce in Step 5.)

Sear steaks on both sides until browned and cooked to desired doneness (2½ to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare). Transfer steaks to the prepared rack to rest and tent loosely with foil to keep warm.

Reduce heat to low and add the butter and shallots to the same skillet. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, until shallots have begun to soften but are barely colored, about 2 minutes. Stir in thyme leaves. Add the vinegar, increase the heat to medium-high and cook until the liquid has nearly evaporated, 2 minutes. Stir in the parsley, mustard and reserved reduced beef stock. Simmer until shallot mixture is soft and the sauce looks silky, about 2 minutes more. Remove from heat. Pour any juices that have escaped from the steaks during resting into the skillet.

Using a sharp knife, slice the steaks across the grain on the bias. Arrange the slices on a platter. Spoon the shallot sauce over, garnish with greens if desired, and serve.

Chicken Enchiladas

Chicken Enchiladas

With the help of rotisserie or roast chicken and easy, premade (or canned) enchilada sauce, these American Southwest-inspired enchiladas are ready in about an hour. Make them vegetarian by substituting the chicken with roasted vegetables, such as summer or winter squash, eggplant or mushrooms. For extra flavor and texture, add some fresh cilantro, or chopped raw onion or jalapeño to the filling before you roll up the enchiladas. Pre-shredded cheese (preferably Cheddar or a Mexican blend) will help get this meal on the table even faster.

Yield: 6 servings

¼ cup vegetable oil

12 (6-inch) corn tortillas

½ medium white onion, chopped

1 medium poblano or green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 large tomatoes, cored and finely chopped

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2 cups cooked shredded chicken (from a roast chicken or rotisserie chicken)

2 ½ cups enchilada sauce or from 2 (10-ounce) cans

12 ounces (3 cups) sharp Cheddar, shredded

Pico de gallo, for serving (optional)

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Using 2 tablespoons of the oil, lightly brush both sides of each tortilla. Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high and, working in batches, cook tortillas until lightly browned and just starting to crisp but still pliable, 45 seconds to 1 minute per side. (This will prevent the tortillas from completely falling apart while cooking.) Set aside.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet over medium-high and cook onion, poblano, garlic, tomatoes and juices, and 1 teaspoon salt, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, until most of the liquid has evaporated and tomatoes begin to stick to the skillet, 9 to 11 minutes. Stir in chicken, ½ cup enchilada sauce and ½ teaspoon salt until combined and just warmed through; remove from heat. Taste and season with additional salt, if necessary.

Pour ½ cup enchilada sauce into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, spreading to cover the bottom. Working one at a time, arrange a scant ¼ cup of chicken down the center of the tortilla, roll to secure the filling and place seam side down in the baking dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas and chicken, making sure they’re nestled right up against each other.

Pour the remaining enchilada sauce over the tortillas, then scatter cheese on top. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the cheese is just beginning to brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm topped with pico de gallo, if desired. For leftovers, divide remaining enchiladas into portions of 2 or 3; wrap each portion tightly in plastic wrap or place in a freezer bag, squeeze out the air, seal and freeze for up to 3 months.

TIP: I have made enchiladas like this numerous times, and they are delicious. I would make one recommendation. If making ahead or to freeze, dip each tortilla into the sauce, roll up, and place in dish as instructed. Then, keep the remaining sauce separate and pour it on and top with cheese just prior to cooking. Otherwise, the sauce soaks into the tortillas to the point of causing the final product to be very dry.

Canned enchilada sauce? This is verging on not really a recipe territory. Don’t buy canned sauce, the sauce is very easy to make: Sauté the following in a little oil for 30 seconds: 3 medium cloves garlic, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon) 3 tablespoons chili powder 2 teaspoons ground coriander 2 teaspoons ground cumin ½ teaspoon table salt 2 teaspoons granulated sugar Then add 2 cans tomato sauce (8oz each) and simmer for 10-15 minutes

Chiles Poblanos, never green bell peppers.

Best Chicken Salad

Best Chicken Salad

The secret to this chicken salad recipe isn’t in the seasonings (though the tarragon and sour cream make it pretty wonderful) but in the texture of the chicken, described as “plush” by the chef Barbara Tropp in her “China Moon” cookbook. She incorporated Chinese methods and flavors to her cooking, including this foolproof method for poaching chicken breasts without overcooking. It makes a chicken salad that’s perfect for sandwiches (especially on dark rye or sourdough breads) or scooped onto a lettuce-lined plate with sliced radishes, tomatoes, crackers, grapes or all of the above. The chicken breasts used here must be bone-in, but you can remove the skin if you prefer. The skin and bones flavor the cooking liquid, providing a bonus of several pints of chicken stock.

Yield: 4 servings

About 4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts

2 scallions, cut into thirds

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns

1 lemon, halved

⅔ cup mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s, Best Foods or homemade

¼ cup sour cream or crème fraîche, more to taste

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard or 1 teaspoon brine from a jar of pickles, optional

2 or 3 pale green celery ribs, cut into medium (¼-inch) dice

½ cup minced onion or finely sliced scallion, optional

½ cup walnut or pecan halves, broken into bite-size pieces

3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, parsley, or chives, plus extra for garnish

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

Choose a heavy pot or Dutch oven with a tightfitting lid. It should be large enough to hold the chicken snugly, but not much bigger. Fill pot about ⅔ full with cold water, but don’t put the chicken in yet. Boil some extra water in a teakettle.

Add scallions and peppercorns to water, cover and bring to a rolling boil. Turn off heat and slip chicken pieces into the hot water. If needed, add boiling water from the kettle to cover chicken with water by 2 inches. Replace the lid and let chicken rest in the hot water for about 2 hours. Do not turn the flame back on: The pot will retain enough heat to cook chicken thoroughly and safely. (To test, cut into 1 piece of chicken and check the meat near the bone. If it is still pink, return the pot to low heat, bring the water to a simmer and simmer 10 minutes more.)

Lift chicken out of the pot. Remove and discard bones, skin and fat. Pat the meat dry with paper towels, then cut or shred into small bite-size pieces and transfer to a bowl. (Meanwhile, simmer cooking liquid until tasty, strain and refrigerate or freeze to use as chicken stock.)

In a bowl, whisk together juice of ½ lemon, mayonnaise and sour cream. If using, whisk in mustard or brine. Taste and adjust the seasonings and thickness to your liking. Pour over chicken, scraping the bowl clean with a rubber spatula.

Add celery, onion if using, nuts, herbs and salt and pepper. Toss gently but thoroughly. Refrigerate, covered, at least 4 hours. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Sprinkle with herbs before serving.

TIP: There's a much simpler way to cook the chicken and it's foolproof.

Use a whole chicken breast on the bone and add just enough cold water to barely cover. Bring to a boil, immediately reduce heat to a simmer, cook for exactly 20 minutes and immediately remove to a board to cool. Timing is critical. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones and pull it into large shreds with your hands--never use a knife. Very plush. We call it velvet chicken.

I use cranberries that have been plumped up in a bowl with boiling water and drained. I also toast the broken walnuts in a cast iron skillet (without any oil coated on the base of the skillet) which adds another dimension of flavor. Lots of compliments and very easy tweaks! Enjoy!

Actually, in the technique I learned the process is slightly different. Start with cold water. Put in chicken. Cover. Heat until the water boils, and then cook two minutes longer. At that point, cut off the heat and let stand. This has always worked for me, and it does not take two hours. Nor does it toughen the chicken - - always moist and tender. This technique can be used for any amount of chicken. The additional weight of a big portion takes much longer to come to a boil.

Quick Ragù With Ricotta and Lemon

Quick Ragù With Ricotta and Lemon

Meat ragù traditionally requires a long simmer over low heat, but this 45-minute version owes its slow-cooked flavor to a hefty dose of red-pepper or chile paste, which yields a complex, hearty sauce. (This recipe calls for sambal oelek, which is easy to find, but Calabrian chile or Hungarian paprika paste would work well, too.) Spoon the ragù over cooked, broken lasagna noodles and top it with a dollop of creamy ricotta, a sprinkle of toasted fennel and a few curls of lemon zest. This recipe uses beef, but you could also prepare it with spicy Italian sausage, or ground pork or turkey — though you may want to amplify the flavor by tossing in a little fennel seed and red-pepper flakes with the onion and garlic in Step 1.

Yield: 4 servings

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

Fine sea salt and black pepper

1 pound ground beef

2 heaping tablespoons sambal oelek (or any spicy red-pepper paste)

¼ cup full-bodied red wine, like cabernet or merlot

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, with their juices

8 ounces plain or whole-wheat lasagna noodles (not no-cook), broken in 1- to 2-inch pieces

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 cup fresh ricotta

1 lemon, zested

Flaky salt, like Maldon

In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat ¼ cup oil over medium. Add the onion and garlic, season with salt and cook until just beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and cook, breaking it apart with the edge of a spoon, until nicely browned but not completely cooked through, about 6 minutes. Stir in the sambal oelek. Add the wine and stir to release any brown bits from the bottom of the pot.

Add the tomatoes and their juices, crushing completely between your hands or with a potato masher. Cook over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to break down and the beef is cooked through, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper halfway through cooking.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Boil the broken lasagna noodles according to package directions until al dente.

In a small skillet, toast the fennel seeds over medium until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and crush on a cutting board with the flat end of a large knife or the bottom of a skillet.

Drain the pasta, add to the ragù and toss to coat. Divide among four bowls and dollop each generously with ricotta. Sprinkle with lemon zest, cracked fennel, flaky sea salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil as desired. Serve warm.

TIP: I thought it needed tomato paste for depth and sugar to counter the acidic pepper paste. Added them both towards the end and it came out great!