Slow-Cooker Senate Bean Soup

Slow-Cooker Senate Bean Soup

This ultrasimple bean soup has been on the menu at the U.S. Senate Dining Room and served to senators and their staff for more than 100 years. Even as politics have changed, this soup has remained basically the same: navy beans simmered to creamy tenderness with ham hocks, butter and onion. Fittingly, there is no consensus on where exactly the soup came from: Some say it dates back to the early 20th century, when Senator Fred Dubois of Idaho passed a resolution making it a menu staple. This slow-cooker version has updated the classic slightly, with the addition of carrots and smoked paprika. If you’d like more vegetables (how modern!), stir in about 8 ounces of chopped kale before serving. As a nod to Idaho, this version contains a single russet potato, which gets mashed at the end of cooking and thickens the soup beautifully.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1 pound dried navy beans or small white beans, rinsed

5 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped

3 medium carrots, peeled and sliced

2 medium smoked ham hocks (about 1 ½ pounds total)

1 small red or yellow onion, finely chopped

1 medium russet potato, peeled and quartered 

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

1 ½ teaspoons smoked paprika 

1 teaspoon dried thyme

Black pepper

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

In a 6- to 8-quart slow-cooker, combine beans, garlic, carrots, ham hocks, onion, potato, butter, salt, smoked paprika and thyme. Top with 8 cups of water and several generous grinds of black pepper. Cook until the beans are very tender and creamy, about 6 hours on high. (Beans need to reach a simmer to be fully cooked and safe to eat, so be sure your soup reaches a vigorous bubble. This shouldn’t be a problem on the slow-cooker’s high setting. Additionally, beans vary in cook time by age, so if your beans are older, you may need to cook a bit longer than 6 hours.)

Pull out the ham hocks and put them on a cutting board to cool a bit. Using a fork, mash the potato pieces against the side of the slow-cooker. Stir well to break down some of the beans, too. Stir in the vinegar. Pull the meat off the bones, add it back into the soup and discard the bones. Taste and add more salt or pepper as needed.

TIP: I make this often with no meat, it highlights the great taste of the beans. Meat tends to overshadow the beans imho.

I do use celery as well.

And I saute the onions first. until browning, to add a little more depth of flavor.

I alsolike to add some chopped carrots and celery in the last half hour or so to give it some color and a little of the texture you would get from the ham or turkey.

Check out thermal cooking for another way to cook beans or soups in summer without adding heat to kitchen

A great way to add flavor and freshness to any recipe is to chop up twice as much of your aromatics, fry up half in olive oil with any spices, and reserve half to add either at the last half hour of cooking, or as a fresh salsa-like garnish during service. Although this dims the beauty of a dump-and-go recipe, it adds great flavor! Also, once a week, I’ll chop a pound EACH of carrots, celery, and onions and a 1/2 pound of jalapenos to keep in the frig for a ready-to-go mire poix. This is a super easy way to add veg to any recipe!

*The Famous Senate Restaurant Bean Soup Recipe (Senate.ggov)

2 pounds dried navy beans

4 quarts hot water

1 1/2 pounds smoked ham hocks

1 onion, chopped

2 tablespoons butter

salt and pepper to taste

Wash the navy beans and run hot water through them until they are slightly whitened. Place beans into pot with hot water. Add ham hocks and simmer approximately three hours in a covered pot, stirring occasionally. Remove ham hocks and set aside to cool. Dice meat and return to soup. Lightly brown the onion in butter. Add to soup. Before serving, bring to a boil and season with salt and pepper. Serves 8.

* I’ve stopped routinely soaking dried beans. The experts at Rancho Gordo rarely soak them. Unsoaked beans seem to hold their shape better, and using the slow cooker on the HIGH setting with plenty of water, cooks the beans just fine in 6-7 hours.

And for stovetop or oven, bring beans to a boil, boil for 10 minutes, then simmer partly covered for however long your beans take, adding more boiling water as needed to keep them well covered. Add salt only after they begin to soften. Just keep checking them after an hour or so. They take less time than you might think.

Instant Pot Conversion: 

This is a classic ham hock and navy bean soup recipe that converts perfectly to the Instant Pot. In a slow cooker, this would typically take 6 to 8 hours, but you can have it fully cooked and creamy in about 1 hour and 15 minutes total.

Because you are using dried navy beans and smoked ham hocks, you will need to add 6 cups of liquid (either water, chicken broth, or vegetable broth) to ensure the beans cook fully and the ham hocks have enough moisture to break down under pressure.

Here is your exact step-by-step Instant Pot conversion:

Instant Pot Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Sauté the Aromatics: Turn your Instant Pot to the Sauté function and melt the 1 tbsp of butter. Add the chopped onion and sliced carrots. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until the onions start to soften. Stir in the chopped garlic, 1 ½ tsp smoked paprika, and 1 tsp dried thyme, cooking for 1 more minute until fragrant.
2. Deglaze the Pot: Turn off the Sauté function. Pour in a splash of your 6 cups of liquid and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the inner pot. This step is critical to prevent the "Food Burn" warning.
3. Layer the Ingredients: Add the 1 pound of rinsed, unsoaked dried navy beans, the quartered russet potato, the 1 tbsp kosher salt, a generous amount of black pepper, and the 2 smoked ham hocks. Pour the rest of the liquid over everything.
4. Pressure Cook: Close and lock the lid, making sure the steam release valve is set to the Sealing position. Select Pressure Cook / Manual on High Pressure and set the timer for 30 minutes.
5. Natural Pressure Release (Required): When the cooking time finishes, do not touch the valve. Let the Instant Pot sit undisturbed for 20 minutes for a Natural Pressure Release (NPR). This prevents the starchy bean liquid from foaming up out of the valve. After 20 minutes, turn the valve to Venting to release any remaining steam.
6. Shred the Meat and Mash the Potatoes: Carefully open the lid. Transfer the ham hocks to a cutting board. Discard the skin, bones, and excess fat, chop or shred the meat, and return it to the pot. Use a potato masher or the back of a large spoon to mash the quartered potato right into the broth—this will instantly make your soup thick and creamy.
7. The Finish: Stir in the 1 tablespoon of cider vinegar to brighten the flavors, adjust the salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

Skillet Chicken With Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions

Skillet Chicken With Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions

This comforting one-pot dinner is reminiscent of a rich French onion soup, but made in less time and with lighter ingredients. Cooking the onions in a hot, dry pan forces them to release their moisture, so that they shrink and become silky and sweet in 30 minutes. Serve everything directly from the pan, with some crusty bread to soak up all the juices, or shred the chicken and pile it on top of buttered noodles. For something green, stir in some spinach to wilt at the end or serve alongside a simple green salad or roasted broccoli.

Yield: 4 servings

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

2 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes

Kosher salt and black pepper

1 ½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 3-inch pieces

2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

¾ pound cremini mushrooms, stems removed and thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley or dill leaves and fine stems, roughly chopped

¼ cup grated Parmesan or pecorino (optional)

Bread or cooked pasta, for serving

In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 tablespoons oil, 2 tablespoons vinegar, the honey, mustard, red-pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon salt; whisk until smooth. Pat the chicken dry and season with salt and pepper, then add to the mixture, coating it well. Set aside at room temperature, stirring it once while you make the onions.

Heat a 12-inch cast-iron or heavy skillet over medium-high until very hot, 1 ½ to 2 minutes, then add the onions in an even layer. Season with salt, then cook, mostly undisturbed, for 4 minutes more, stirring every minute or so. Add the mushrooms, season with salt, and stir to combine. (It will look crowded, and that’s OK.) Allow to cook mostly undisturbed until the mushrooms shrink and start to brown, about 4 minutes, stirring every minute or so.

Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil and allow the onions to cook until they start to color, stirring and lowering the heat as necessary to avoid burning, about 2 minutes. Push the onions and mushrooms to the edges of the skillet, then add the chicken pieces to the center. Pour any remaining marinade (there will be very little) over the onions and mushrooms. Cook undisturbed for 4 to 5 minutes, then combine the chicken and vegetables and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes more. (Reduce the heat to medium if the onions look like they are burning at any point.)

Add the remaining 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, stirring and scraping up anything on the bottom of the skillet. Season to taste with salt.

Remove from the heat and top with the parsley and cheese, if using. Serve with bread or pasta.

TIP: Welcome to cooking! I sympathize with your frustrations over ambiguities. Don't worry! Cut the chicken however you want (or don't cut at all). Diamond Crystal is specified because it's less "salty" than other kosher salts. Solution? Use less of another salt. "Good" olive oil just means something other than a $2 bottle that's rancid. Have faith in yourself, your tastes, your abilities. Use a little more of an ingredient you like, less if you don't. And enjoy!

Half the chicken. Twice the onions and mushrooms.

Easy Pumpkin Pie With Gingersnap Crust

Easy Pumpkin Pie With Gingersnap Crust

When it comes to pumpkin pie, it doesn’t get more simple or streamlined than this one. Spicy gingersnap cookies give the pat-in-the-pan crust a bit of sweetness and spice that pairs wonderfully with the creamy pumpkin filling. Plus, it's a lot easier than parbaking a traditional pie crust. Use your favorite store-bought pumpkin pie spice or make your own. Either way, you will be rewarded with a flavorful pumpkin pie that’s just waiting for a dollop of whipped cream.

Yield: 8 servings

For the Gingersnap Crust

1½ cups/200 grams finely crushed gingersnap cookies (see Tip)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

¼ teaspoon coarse kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

For the Pumpkin Filling

1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin purée

¾ cup/170 grams heavy cream

⅔ cup/140 grams light or dark brown sugar

3 large eggs

1½ to 2 tablespoons pumpkin pie spice (see Tip)

½ teaspoon coarse kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

Heat oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the center.

Make the gingersnap crust:

In a large bowl, combine the gingersnap crumbs, butter and salt. Stir until well combined, then transfer the mixture into a 9-inch pie pan. Use your fingers and a ⅓-cup dry measuring cup to press the crumbs firmly across the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Set the pan on a baking sheet and bake until lightly golden and fragrant, about 8 minutes.

Make the filling:

While the crust bakes, combine the pumpkin, cream, brown sugar, eggs, pumpkin pie spice and salt in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Pour the filling into the warm crust and smooth into an even layer.

Adjust the oven temperature to 325 degrees and return the pie to the oven. Bake until the filling is set 2 to 3 inches from the edge and is still jiggly in the center when gently shaken, 45 to 50 minutes. Let the pie cool on a rack to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to serve, at least 1 hour (or up to 1 day). If refrigerating for more than a few hours, cover loosely.

Tips: You can buy packaged gingersnap crumbs or crush store-bought cookies into fine crumbs by pulsing them in a food processor or crushing them in a plastic bag with the help of a heavy skillet or a rolling pin.

If you prefer a heavily spiced pumpkin pie, go with the full 2 tablespoons of pumpkin pie spice. Otherwise, use the lesser amount.

I have made this for years using Mi Del gluten free ginger snaps. It comes out perfect and is a treat for your gluten free friends and family.

Hamburgers (Tavern Style)

Hamburgers (Tavern Style)

Here is a hamburger you might find in taverns and bars, plump and juicy, with a thick char that gives way to tender, medium-rare meat. It is best cooked in a heavy, cast-iron skillet slicked with oil or fat. Ask a butcher for coarse-ground chuck steak, with at least a 20 percent fat content, or grind your own. Keep it in the refrigerator until you are ready to cook, and then when you do, form your patties gently. Season after the meat is in the pan.

Yield: 4 servings

½ teaspoon neutral oil, like canola, or a pat of unsalted butter

2 pounds ground chuck, at least 20 percent fat

Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

4 slices cheese (optional)

4 soft hamburger buns

Lettuce leaves, sliced tomatoes and condiments, as desired

Add oil or butter to a large cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet and place over medium heat. Gently divide ground beef into 4 small piles of around 8 ounces each, and then lightly form these into thick patties of around 3 ½ inches in diameter, like flattened meatballs. Season aggressively with salt and pepper.

Increase heat under skillet to high. Put hamburgers into the skillet with plenty of distance between them and allow them to cook, without moving, for approximately 3 minutes. Use a spatula to turn hamburgers over. If using cheese, lay slices on meat.

Continue to cook until meat is cooked through, approximately another 3 to 4 minutes for medium-rare. Remove hamburgers from skillet and allow to rest for approximately 5 minutes; meanwhile, toast the buns. Place hamburgers on buns and top as desired.

TIP: Good technique here, but one crucial step missing: putting a thumb print in the burger before setting in pan. The thumbprint keeps the burger from turning into a self steaming dome (hence the terrible gray meat effect). Because SCIENCE! I also (gently) mix a small amount of Duke’s mayo (high egg content) and fish sauce into the meat for extra fat, and a deep, rich umami taste. I know fish sauce sounds weird, but it really works with small amounts. No one knows it’s there but you!

I don't see the need for oil or butter. If you sprinkle salt on your cast-iron pan, fire it up and put in the raw burgers, they immediately render enough fat/juice to start sizzling and form a nice carmelized crust too. I use 85% lean beef.

I agree, no need for oil or butter, even using 7% fat ground beef as I do. In addition to coarse salt in the pan, I grind peppercorns into the pan. I also add salt and pepper to the top, uncooked side as the bottom cooks.

Potatoes au Gratin

Potatoes au Gratin

The humble potato gets the red carpet treatment in this easy yet luxurious recipe for potatoes au gratin. Sliced Yukon Gold or russet potatoes (you can use either, but don't use a combination as they cook at different rates) are layered with half-and-half or heavy cream, topped with butter and grated cheese, then baked until golden and bubbly. Feel free to play around: Add leeks, onions, garlic or more cheese between the layers. Experiment with fresh or dried herbs. It's incredibly adaptable and practically foolproof. Just don't forget to season with salt and pepper as you go. Like all potato dishes, it needs plenty of seasoning.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

3 to 4 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 to 3 cups half-and-half or heavy cream

¼ cup grated Parmesan or Gruyère

Pinch of nutmeg (optional)

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Seasoning each layer with salt and pepper as you go, layer the potatoes in a 10- or 12-inch ovenproof skillet.

Dot the top with 2 tablespoons butter. Pour in half-and-half. (It should come about ¾ of the way to the top.)

Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to low and cook for 10 minutes, uncovered, until the half-and-half has reduced by about half.

Transfer to the oven and bake until the top is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 300 degrees and cook until the potatoes are fork tender and the top is nicely browned, about 8 minutes more. Top with grated cheese and return to the oven until the cheese is melty and golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with a pinch of nutmeg, if using, and serve.

TIP: Typical Mark Bittman recipe - the base is simple and great as is but it is also endlessly customizable. I had whipping cream and no cheese, so I did a 3 parts cream, one part veg broth that I poured over the potatoes and butter. I tossed in some crushed garlic and added salt and pepper. I followed the cooking directions as written. My husband called these potatoes the lobster of vegetables. Thanks Mark! This recipe is a keeper.

I simply place unpeeled yukon sliced potatoes in a bowl with cream, wipe a casserole with halved garlic then arrange the sliced potatoes in layers, sprinkling each with salt, pepper and perhaps sauteed leeks. Then I pour the cream on, top with cheese and bake at 375 for an hour. For make ahead, I bake for 40 min. and then before serving bake for the additional 20-25 min. Otherwise just bake for about an hour.

Made this in my cast iron skillet and it was a hit for thanksgiving. I used Parmesan and a black truffle gruyere and added parsley, shallots, and garlic. I used cheese and the diced shallots/garlic in between every layer - absolutely divine. You’ll want to give it lots of time on the stove to reduce (30 minutes) before going in the oven. I also gave extra time after changing oven temp to 300 and finished in the broiler at the very end to get good color on top.

Banana Bread Pancakes

Banana Bread Pancakes

Have you ever wondered what would happen if you took banana bread batter and instead of putting it in a loaf pan, you just griddled it like a pancake? Well, welcome, because that’s exactly what happened here. I took my famous brown butter banana bread recipe, made a few tweaks so it wouldn’t be a cast-iron catastrophe, and created soft, decadent banana bread pancakes that are so tender and moist that a fork practically falls through them. Banana bread meets banana pancakes: Nothing could be better.

Yield: Makes 3 to 4 servings

¼ cup/57 grams salted butter, plus more for griddling and serving

3 large/390 grams very ripe bananas

¼ cup 50 grams dark brown sugar

¼ cup 50 grams granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup/140 grams all-purpose flour

1 cup/100 grams oat flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal

Maple syrup, for serving

In a small pot or pan, melt ¼ cup butter over medium and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids are golden and toasted.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mash up the bananas. It doesn’t have to be perfectly smooth, a few chunks are good. Pour the browned butter into the bowl with the bananas. Enjoy how amazing it smells and whisk the two together to help cool the butter.

Stir in the brown sugar, granulated sugar, eggs and vanilla and mix until smooth. Add the all-purpose flour, oat flour, baking powder, cinnamon and salt and mix just until combined.

Heat a well-seasoned griddle or cast-iron skillet over low heat for 2 minutes before you increase the heat to medium-low. If your griddle isn’t well seasoned, add enough butter to the skillet to lightly coat.

Working in batches, drop batter onto griddle by heaping ⅓-cupfuls, spacing them 1 inch apart. Use the back of the cup to gently swirl the pancakes so they’re even and a little less than ½ inch thick.

Griddle the pancakes for 3 to 4 minutes on one side, until bubbles start to form on the top and don’t pop, then flip and cook an additional 1 to 2 minutes, until deeply golden. They should puff up to be around ¾ inch thick.

Serve pancakes with maple syrup and more salted butter.

TIP: In the video, she says to use a mini-chopper (like on an immersion blender) to blitz regular oats. That's probably the missing tip.

You can freeze your over ripe bananas for future use when the urge to make this or banana bread strikes you. When you need them, defrost them and cut the tip off one end or the other with a pair of scissors and squeeze the now liquified banana into your mixing bowl. No mashing is necessary.

Coffee Jelly With Salted Caramel Whipped Cream

Coffee Jelly With Salted Caramel Whipped Cream

Topped with dollops of freshly whipped salted caramel cream, this soft Japanese coffee jelly makes the perfect post-dinner pick-me-up — and is essentially a sweetened espresso in jiggly form. For some contrast to the jellied and creamy textures, the dessert is topped with a sprinkle of crunchy flaky salt as well as cacao nibs. It’s a great dessert to prepare in advance and assemble in front of your guests. For some extra zhuzh, you can douse the cubed coffee jelly in flavored liqueurs, like coffee, orange or chocolate – and you’ll get bonus points for using dainty little coupe glasses!

Yield: 8 servings

2 (¼-ounce) packets unflavored powdered gelatin (4 teaspoons/14 grams total)

1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar 

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 ½ tablespoons instant espresso powder

1 ½ cups/360 grams heavy cream

¼ teaspoon salt

Flaky salt, for serving 

Cacao nibs (optional), for serving

Add 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold water to a large measuring cup. Mix in the gelatin.

To a small saucepan over medium heat, add 2 ¼ cups water, ½ cup of the sugar and the vanilla, and bring to a boil, then continue to boil until the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Add the espresso powder and stir until dissolved. Pour the boiling mixture over the softened gelatin and whisk until the gelatin has dissolved. Pour the mixture into a heatproof container, cover with a lid and chill in the fridge until solidified, at least 8 hours.

In a microwave-safe measuring cup or bowl, heat 1 cup of the cream in the microwave for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until lukewarm.

To a small saucepan over medium heat, add the remaining ½ cup sugar and the salt. Cook, without stirring, for 5 minutes, tilting the pan occasionally to shift the mixture around until most of the sugar has melted and the color has deepened to a dark amber.

Slowly stream in the lukewarm cream while constantly whisking. Remove from heat once incorporated. Mix in the remaining ½ cup cream and chill in the fridge until cold, at least 2 hours. (If the mixture seizes and firms up when adding the cream, simply return it to low heat and whisk until combined and creamy before chilling.)

Before serving, remove the solidified coffee jelly from the fridge and place it on a cutting board. Slice into small cubes. Return the cubes to their container. (It’s fine if some of the cubes lose their shape.)

Add the salted caramel whipping cream to the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, whip to medium peaks, about 3 minutes.

Divide the coffee jelly among 8 small (6-ounce) glasses, like coupes or martini glasses. Dollop the salted caramel whipped cream onto each serving, spreading it over about half the jelly to the edge of the glass. Sprinkle with flaky salt and cacao nibs (if using) and serve cold.

TIP: my dad loved a version of this--we just called it "coffee jello" my mom made it for him all the time and he carried copies of the recipe with him when he traveled so he could share it with restaurants he ate at and encourage them to serve it

Such a hit at my Friendsgiving tonight!! I had all the ingredients besides the cocoa nibs on hand. The jello and cream came together much faster than I anticipated. I used Knox gelatin and the jello was pleasantly soft but sliceable. I plan on making the cream again as a cake filling, that was terrific!! I added a splash of Kahlua in each glass and topped with 3 coffe beans instead of cocoa, like an espresso martini. Really good!!

Such a delicious recipe. We made it with actual, high-quality specialty Colombian coffee (ground for espresso but prepared in v60) replacing the 2.5 cups of water and the instant espresso. Next time we will remove most of the sugar in the gelatin. The gelatin was delicious but it can do without the sugar and let the cream do the heavy-lifting in that regard. I agree that a very subtle hint of cardamom in the gelatin has a lot of potential. Eating this with flakes on top was SO GOOD. Will definitely prepare this recipe many more times!

unexpected hit! halved the sugar in the jello. would double the espresso powder next time, as the coffee flavor was a little weak. cream delish. came together as a light, i want seconds kind of dessert after the heavy thanksgiving dinner.

Such a fun dessert! We replaced the espresso powder and water with regular brewed coffee. Based on the comments about the coffee flavor not being strong enough, we doubled amount of coffee that we would usually use to make coffee for that amount of water, but it still wasn’t as strong as we might have liked. Next time, we would use even more coffee (in case it isn’t obvious, we like strong coffee), but it all depends on your preference. Overall, delicious!

Almond Croissant French Toast

Almond Croissant French Toast

I’m not usually a frangipane person, but a flaky croissant filled with the sweet almond cream? Absolutely obsessed. This recipe, from my book “A Cozy Kitchen Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press, 2026), takes all that almond-y goodness and bakes it into a warm, golden casserole. It starts with store-bought plain croissants: Don’t go hunting for the high-quality ones! Since this is essentially a bread pudding, grocery-store croissants are ideal here. The casserole can be assembled the night before and baked off in the morning with the crunchy sliced almonds on top. It’s the perfect make-ahead brunch: rich, cozy and just the right amount of fancy.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Nonstick cooking spray

6 store-bought plain croissants, about 1 pound total (see Tip)

4 large eggs

½ cup/105 grams light brown sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon pure almond extract

¼ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2 cups/480 grams half-and-half

¼ cup/25 grams sliced almonds

For serving

Powdered sugar

Maple syrup or whipped cream (or both)

Coat an 8-inch or 9-inch square baking pan (or a 2-quart casserole dish) with nonstick spray. Roughly tear each croissant into 5 or 6 pieces and arrange evenly in the baking dish.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, brown sugar, vanilla extract, almond extract and salt until combined. Whisk in the half-and-half to make a cohesive custard. Pour the custard over the croissants as evenly as possible, then lightly press to encourage the croissants to soak up the liquid. Sprinkle the almonds on top. Let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature (you can start heating the oven now), or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

When ready to bake, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake the French toast for 45 to 50 minutes, until the custard is set and the almonds are golden brown. Let cool in the pan for 15 to 25 minutes.

To serve, dust French toast with powdered sugar. Serve in big scoops with maple syrup, whipped cream or both.

Tip

Seek out grocery store croissants (rather than a more authentic variety from a nice bakery) for the French toast — this is a great way to make the most of them.

This was absolutely delicious and we're actually making it a second night in a row, which we almost never do with any recipe. The croissants come out creamy on the bottom and crispy on top, which is a really wonderful contrast. The flavor is very almond forward, and I would recommend preparing the recipe as written the first time, before experimenting with adding almond paste.

Finely grated almond paste would incorporate nicely into the custard. I made many hotel-size pans of bread pudding when I worked a pastry chef. Always used stale croissants (coarsely torn, lightly toasted if necessary). I still make bread pudding - albeit on a much smaller scale - and buy croissants at Costco. They are relatively inexpensive and good quality. Offer some bourbon crème Anglaise on the side…just delicious.

Not having made this, but having made a variety of other bread puddings, it should work just fine. I would suggest crumbling it into small pieces (or even coarsely grated) and sprinkling in before pouring in the custard mix.

Basque Cheesecake

Basque Cheesecake

Generously burnished and with a velvety, custardy interior, this rustic, crustless cheesecake from the Basque region of northern Spain is the platonic ideal of a low-effort, high-reward dessert. The caramelized exterior evokes a toasty marshmallow, but the cake itself is not too sweet. Marti Buckley adapted this recipe from La Viña, a small bar in San Sebastián, for her cookbook, “Basque Country” (Artisan, 2018). This statement cake is achieved using only five primary ingredients. It’s baked at a higher temperature than a classic New York cheesecake and in the hot oven, the cheesecake dramatically inflates into a soufflé-like puff before sinking into itself, creating a cradle for fresh fruit, should you wish to serve it with some. But Basque cheesecake is perfect on its own, at its arguable prime the day after it’s made, enjoyed at room temperature. 

Yield: 12 servings

Unsalted butter or nonstick spray, for greasing the pan

1 ¾ cups/350 grams granulated sugar

2 ¼ pounds/36 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature 

¼ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) 

5 large eggs

2 cups/480 milliliters heavy cream 

¼ cup/30 grams all-purpose flour

Place a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 10-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper, leaving 2 to 3 inches overhanging the top of the pan. (You can trace and cut a circle to fit the base and then cut a band of paper to fit neatly around the sides, but the more rustic and simple method is to press an entire sheet into the pan, pleating the paper where it begins to crease. If you use multiple sheets of parchment, grease in between the layers so that they stick and lay flat.)

In a large bowl using a handheld mixer or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the sugar and cream cheese until smooth. (This can be done by hand as well; beat with a wooden spoon for about 5 minutes.)

Add the salt and mix. Add the eggs one by one and beat until fully incorporated.

Beat in the cream. Sift in the flour, then mix it in on low.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake until browned and almost burnt on top, 50 to 60 minutes. The center will still be quite jiggly. Remove the cake from the oven and cool completely on a rack. It will have risen significantly, nearly past the top of the pan, but it will sink in the center as it cools.

Before serving, remove the rim of the springform and gently tug away the parchment paper. Serve at room temperature.

TIP: Parchment paper tip: WET the parchment paper, wring it out, blot it dry. It will now be malleable and can easily be molded to fit your pan. No need to cut several pieces or use multiple layers.

I have the original recipe from La Vina restaurant in San Sebastian that was used as the inspiration for this recipe. No idea where I got it from but it uses a 6" pan (I use a Fat Daddio) and it's amazing. It's also super quick to make. It fits in our toaster oven.

The big difference I noticed was that this recipe doesn't specify letting it sit in the fridge overnight, which helps to solidify the cake.

I also make a quick graham cracker crust for it, as it sometimes leaks out the bottom.

Been doing these cheesecake for years and its much better if you undercook it, around 30 min in the oven and then keep it in the fridge overnight for perfect texture.

Real deal like in La Viña de San Sebastián :)

Chocolate Doughnut Muffins

Chocolate Doughnut Muffins

These supersoft, pillowy chocolate muffins are reminiscent of your favorite chocolate doughnut, but with no fussy frying necessary. Packed with sour cream and just a drop of oil, they stay moist and delicious for days. They come together quickly in one bowl, so you can mix them up for a morning treat or afternoon snack without much effort. The cinnamon-sugar coating gives them a crunchy and lightly spiced exterior, which is a pleasing contrast to their soft centers, but they are just as tasty with a heavy dusting of confectioners’ sugar instead.

Yield: 12 muffins

½ cup plus 4 tablespoons/170 grams unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing

2 large eggs

1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar

1 cup/220 grams sour cream

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil

1 ½ teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus a pinch

½ cup/45 grams Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup/128 grams all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Heat oven to 375 degrees with a rack set in the center. Generously butter a 12-cup muffin tin.

In a large bowl, combine the eggs and ¾ cup/150 grams granulated sugar and whisk until well combined.

Add the sour cream, ½ cup/113 grams butter, the oil, nutmeg and 1 teaspoon salt; whisk until well combined.

Whisk in the cocoa powder, followed by the baking powder and the baking soda. Then use a flexible spatula to fold in the flour by gently scooping up some batter from the bottom and folding it over the flour on the top. Rotate the bowl and repeat until just incorporated.

Divide the mixture among the 12 wells and bake until the muffins are puffed and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, 18 to 23 minutes.

In a shallow bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup/50 grams granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon and a pinch of salt.

Let the muffins cool in the pan for 5 minutes then transfer them to a rack. Working with one warm muffin at a time, brush it with some remaining melted butter then toss in the cinnamon sugar; repeat with remaining muffins.

Serve immediately. Store any extras in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days. (The sugar will gradually melt into the muffins as they sit, but you can reroll the muffins in cinnamon sugar, if desired.)

TIP: I didn’t have enough sour cream and I really wanted to make them, so I used a scant 1/2 cup sour cream plus approximately 1/4 cup each Greek yogurt and ricotta. They came out perfectly. Next time I’ll try with all Greek yogurt.

I’m gonna ditch the nutmeg and add in a bit of instant coffee to deepen the chocolate flavor. Maybe douse with a glaze!

Three people sent me this recipe and asked me to make them! Considering how easy they are, it was a pleasure.

I made these as mini muffins, doughnut holes, and mini doughnuts. All successful.

Few hints: King Arthur Double Dark Chocolate had the best flavor. Heat and brush melted butter on the pans first to make a crisper crust. I toss baked items in a bag of cinnamon sugar to completely cover. Great glazed with chocolate, others with a simple sugar glaze. One tsp of nutmeg was fine. A keeper!

I made these tonight for a last-minute dinner thing and they are terrific-tender, fluffy and spicy! They came together in no time and everyone-including my neighbor’s 18-month-old granddaughter-loved them. I made mini-muffins (with the cups filled to the top of the well) and baked them for 15 minutes. I got 2 dozen muffins. I used a good teaspoon of nutmeg and might have used more except my hand got tired of grating! The nutmeg is not overpowering & the cinnamon-nutmeg combo really rocks.

Dan Dan Noodles

Dan Dan Noodles

A specialty from Sichuan, a province in the southwest of China, vendors once balanced baskets of noodles and sauce on their shoulder poles and cried out “dan dan mian!” to hawk their wares. Dan dan refers to those bamboo shoulder poles and mian means noodles, but there’s no one way to prepare them. Nowadays in the Western diaspora, the dish is associated with a few essentials, namely chile oil and sesame paste, but another is worth adding: preserved vegetables. Salty and a little sweet with the sour oomph of fermentation, pickled mustard greens give the soothing noodles an umami zing. These noodles are especially rich with sesame, but you can adjust all of the seasonings to your taste. Toasty and salty, tangy on the cliff of funk, chewy with pops of peanut, dan dan noodles are a bowl of contentment.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

FOR THE SAUCE

¼ cup well-stirred Chinese sesame paste or tahini (see Tips)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 to 2 tablespoons chile crisp, preferably Sichuanese, plus more for serving

2 to 3 teaspoons brown sugar

½ teaspoon Chinkiang vinegar or balsamic vinegar

FOR THE MEAT

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ cup ya cai (Sichuan preserved mustard greens) or other finely chopped Chinese pickled or preserved mustard vegetables (see Tips)

1 large garlic clove, finely chopped

8 ounces ground pork

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or other rice wine

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons tian mian jiang (sweet wheat sauce) or hoisin

FOR THE NOODLES

1 pound fresh Chinese wheat noodles (see Tips)

8 to 12 bok choy or gai lan (Chinese broccoli), optional

Chopped roasted, salted peanuts, ground Sichuan peppercorns and finely sliced scallions, for topping

Start the sauce: Set a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, mix the sesame paste, soy sauce, sesame oil, chile crisp, brown sugar and vinegar in a large bowl. The mixture will be thick. Taste and add more chile oil or brown sugar (or other seasonings) to your liking.

Make the meat: Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok or large, deep skillet over high. Add the ya cai and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Scrape half into the sauce bowl. Add the remaining oil to the wok. When it’s hot, add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the pork and cook, smashing it into the vegetables and stirring to break it into tiny bits. When its pinkness fades after a few minutes, add the wine, soy sauce and tian mian jiang, and stir until the pork is cooked through. Keep warm over low.

Finish the sauce: Scoop ¼ cup boiling water from the pot and add to the sauce. Stir until smooth. The sauce should run off the spoon. If it doesn’t, add more boiling water a tablespoon at a time.

Make the noodles: Drop the noodles into the pot of boiling water, stir and cook until there’s still a bite in the center, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the bok choy and cook until bright green and the noodles are just tender, about 1 minute longer. Drain and run under hot tap water to rinse excess starch off the noodles.

Slide the noodles and bok choy over the sauce, scrape the pork and its sauce on top, then sprinkle with peanuts and scallions if you want. Top with more chile crisp if you’d like. Mix well and enjoy immediately.

Tips: Chinese sesame paste has a deep toasted flavor. If using tahini, try to find one made with roasted sesame seeds, such as Joyva. If using tahini ground from raw sesame seeds, add another tablespoon toasted sesame oil.

Sichuan preserved mustard greens, known broadly as ya cai or more specifically as Yibin ya cai for the region from which it comes, come in small foil packets or jars. The dark brown bits of preserved vegetables start as strips of Sichuanese mustard green stems, which are then dried, salted and fermented with a sugar syrup and spices. They end up savory, a little sweet and pleasantly funky. There’s no great substitute, but other varieties of Chinese pickled or preserved mustard greens, such as sui mi ya cai, work. In a Western pantry, a combination of finely chopped capers and finely diced fermented bread-and-butter pickles comes closest.

If you don’t have fresh Chinese wheat noodles, you can use 12 ounces dried lo mein noodles, thin spaghetti or ramen and cook according to the package directions before draining and rinsing.