Coffee Jelly With Salted Caramel Whipped Cream

Coffee Jelly With Salted Caramel Whipped Cream

Topped with dollops of freshly whipped salted caramel cream, this soft Japanese coffee jelly makes the perfect post-dinner pick-me-up — and is essentially a sweetened espresso in jiggly form. For some contrast to the jellied and creamy textures, the dessert is topped with a sprinkle of crunchy flaky salt as well as cacao nibs. It’s a great dessert to prepare in advance and assemble in front of your guests. For some extra zhuzh, you can douse the cubed coffee jelly in flavored liqueurs, like coffee, orange or chocolate – and you’ll get bonus points for using dainty little coupe glasses!

Yield: 8 servings

2 (¼-ounce) packets unflavored powdered gelatin (4 teaspoons/14 grams total)

1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar 

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 ½ tablespoons instant espresso powder

1 ½ cups/360 grams heavy cream

¼ teaspoon salt

Flaky salt, for serving 

Cacao nibs (optional), for serving

Add 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold water to a large measuring cup. Mix in the gelatin.

To a small saucepan over medium heat, add 2 ¼ cups water, ½ cup of the sugar and the vanilla, and bring to a boil, then continue to boil until the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Add the espresso powder and stir until dissolved. Pour the boiling mixture over the softened gelatin and whisk until the gelatin has dissolved. Pour the mixture into a heatproof container, cover with a lid and chill in the fridge until solidified, at least 8 hours.

In a microwave-safe measuring cup or bowl, heat 1 cup of the cream in the microwave for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until lukewarm.

To a small saucepan over medium heat, add the remaining ½ cup sugar and the salt. Cook, without stirring, for 5 minutes, tilting the pan occasionally to shift the mixture around until most of the sugar has melted and the color has deepened to a dark amber.

Slowly stream in the lukewarm cream while constantly whisking. Remove from heat once incorporated. Mix in the remaining ½ cup cream and chill in the fridge until cold, at least 2 hours. (If the mixture seizes and firms up when adding the cream, simply return it to low heat and whisk until combined and creamy before chilling.)

Before serving, remove the solidified coffee jelly from the fridge and place it on a cutting board. Slice into small cubes. Return the cubes to their container. (It’s fine if some of the cubes lose their shape.)

Add the salted caramel whipping cream to the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, whip to medium peaks, about 3 minutes.

Divide the coffee jelly among 8 small (6-ounce) glasses, like coupes or martini glasses. Dollop the salted caramel whipped cream onto each serving, spreading it over about half the jelly to the edge of the glass. Sprinkle with flaky salt and cacao nibs (if using) and serve cold.

TIP: my dad loved a version of this--we just called it "coffee jello" my mom made it for him all the time and he carried copies of the recipe with him when he traveled so he could share it with restaurants he ate at and encourage them to serve it

Such a hit at my Friendsgiving tonight!! I had all the ingredients besides the cocoa nibs on hand. The jello and cream came together much faster than I anticipated. I used Knox gelatin and the jello was pleasantly soft but sliceable. I plan on making the cream again as a cake filling, that was terrific!! I added a splash of Kahlua in each glass and topped with 3 coffe beans instead of cocoa, like an espresso martini. Really good!!

Such a delicious recipe. We made it with actual, high-quality specialty Colombian coffee (ground for espresso but prepared in v60) replacing the 2.5 cups of water and the instant espresso. Next time we will remove most of the sugar in the gelatin. The gelatin was delicious but it can do without the sugar and let the cream do the heavy-lifting in that regard. I agree that a very subtle hint of cardamom in the gelatin has a lot of potential. Eating this with flakes on top was SO GOOD. Will definitely prepare this recipe many more times!

unexpected hit! halved the sugar in the jello. would double the espresso powder next time, as the coffee flavor was a little weak. cream delish. came together as a light, i want seconds kind of dessert after the heavy thanksgiving dinner.

Such a fun dessert! We replaced the espresso powder and water with regular brewed coffee. Based on the comments about the coffee flavor not being strong enough, we doubled amount of coffee that we would usually use to make coffee for that amount of water, but it still wasn’t as strong as we might have liked. Next time, we would use even more coffee (in case it isn’t obvious, we like strong coffee), but it all depends on your preference. Overall, delicious!

Almond Croissant French Toast

Almond Croissant French Toast

I’m not usually a frangipane person, but a flaky croissant filled with the sweet almond cream? Absolutely obsessed. This recipe, from my book “A Cozy Kitchen Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press, 2026), takes all that almond-y goodness and bakes it into a warm, golden casserole. It starts with store-bought plain croissants: Don’t go hunting for the high-quality ones! Since this is essentially a bread pudding, grocery-store croissants are ideal here. The casserole can be assembled the night before and baked off in the morning with the crunchy sliced almonds on top. It’s the perfect make-ahead brunch: rich, cozy and just the right amount of fancy.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Nonstick cooking spray

6 store-bought plain croissants, about 1 pound total (see Tip)

4 large eggs

½ cup/105 grams light brown sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon pure almond extract

¼ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2 cups/480 grams half-and-half

¼ cup/25 grams sliced almonds

For serving

Powdered sugar

Maple syrup or whipped cream (or both)

Coat an 8-inch or 9-inch square baking pan (or a 2-quart casserole dish) with nonstick spray. Roughly tear each croissant into 5 or 6 pieces and arrange evenly in the baking dish.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, brown sugar, vanilla extract, almond extract and salt until combined. Whisk in the half-and-half to make a cohesive custard. Pour the custard over the croissants as evenly as possible, then lightly press to encourage the croissants to soak up the liquid. Sprinkle the almonds on top. Let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature (you can start heating the oven now), or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

When ready to bake, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake the French toast for 45 to 50 minutes, until the custard is set and the almonds are golden brown. Let cool in the pan for 15 to 25 minutes.

To serve, dust French toast with powdered sugar. Serve in big scoops with maple syrup, whipped cream or both.

Tip

Seek out grocery store croissants (rather than a more authentic variety from a nice bakery) for the French toast — this is a great way to make the most of them.

This was absolutely delicious and we're actually making it a second night in a row, which we almost never do with any recipe. The croissants come out creamy on the bottom and crispy on top, which is a really wonderful contrast. The flavor is very almond forward, and I would recommend preparing the recipe as written the first time, before experimenting with adding almond paste.

Finely grated almond paste would incorporate nicely into the custard. I made many hotel-size pans of bread pudding when I worked a pastry chef. Always used stale croissants (coarsely torn, lightly toasted if necessary). I still make bread pudding - albeit on a much smaller scale - and buy croissants at Costco. They are relatively inexpensive and good quality. Offer some bourbon crème Anglaise on the side…just delicious.

Not having made this, but having made a variety of other bread puddings, it should work just fine. I would suggest crumbling it into small pieces (or even coarsely grated) and sprinkling in before pouring in the custard mix.

Basque Cheesecake

Basque Cheesecake

Generously burnished and with a velvety, custardy interior, this rustic, crustless cheesecake from the Basque region of northern Spain is the platonic ideal of a low-effort, high-reward dessert. The caramelized exterior evokes a toasty marshmallow, but the cake itself is not too sweet. Marti Buckley adapted this recipe from La Viña, a small bar in San Sebastián, for her cookbook, “Basque Country” (Artisan, 2018). This statement cake is achieved using only five primary ingredients. It’s baked at a higher temperature than a classic New York cheesecake and in the hot oven, the cheesecake dramatically inflates into a soufflé-like puff before sinking into itself, creating a cradle for fresh fruit, should you wish to serve it with some. But Basque cheesecake is perfect on its own, at its arguable prime the day after it’s made, enjoyed at room temperature. 

Yield: 12 servings

Unsalted butter or nonstick spray, for greasing the pan

1 ¾ cups/350 grams granulated sugar

2 ¼ pounds/36 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature 

¼ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) 

5 large eggs

2 cups/480 milliliters heavy cream 

¼ cup/30 grams all-purpose flour

Place a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 10-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper, leaving 2 to 3 inches overhanging the top of the pan. (You can trace and cut a circle to fit the base and then cut a band of paper to fit neatly around the sides, but the more rustic and simple method is to press an entire sheet into the pan, pleating the paper where it begins to crease. If you use multiple sheets of parchment, grease in between the layers so that they stick and lay flat.)

In a large bowl using a handheld mixer or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the sugar and cream cheese until smooth. (This can be done by hand as well; beat with a wooden spoon for about 5 minutes.)

Add the salt and mix. Add the eggs one by one and beat until fully incorporated.

Beat in the cream. Sift in the flour, then mix it in on low.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake until browned and almost burnt on top, 50 to 60 minutes. The center will still be quite jiggly. Remove the cake from the oven and cool completely on a rack. It will have risen significantly, nearly past the top of the pan, but it will sink in the center as it cools.

Before serving, remove the rim of the springform and gently tug away the parchment paper. Serve at room temperature.

TIP: Parchment paper tip: WET the parchment paper, wring it out, blot it dry. It will now be malleable and can easily be molded to fit your pan. No need to cut several pieces or use multiple layers.

I have the original recipe from La Vina restaurant in San Sebastian that was used as the inspiration for this recipe. No idea where I got it from but it uses a 6" pan (I use a Fat Daddio) and it's amazing. It's also super quick to make. It fits in our toaster oven.

The big difference I noticed was that this recipe doesn't specify letting it sit in the fridge overnight, which helps to solidify the cake.

I also make a quick graham cracker crust for it, as it sometimes leaks out the bottom.

Been doing these cheesecake for years and its much better if you undercook it, around 30 min in the oven and then keep it in the fridge overnight for perfect texture.

Real deal like in La Viña de San Sebastián :)

Chocolate Doughnut Muffins

Chocolate Doughnut Muffins

These supersoft, pillowy chocolate muffins are reminiscent of your favorite chocolate doughnut, but with no fussy frying necessary. Packed with sour cream and just a drop of oil, they stay moist and delicious for days. They come together quickly in one bowl, so you can mix them up for a morning treat or afternoon snack without much effort. The cinnamon-sugar coating gives them a crunchy and lightly spiced exterior, which is a pleasing contrast to their soft centers, but they are just as tasty with a heavy dusting of confectioners’ sugar instead.

Yield: 12 muffins

½ cup plus 4 tablespoons/170 grams unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing

2 large eggs

1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar

1 cup/220 grams sour cream

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil

1 ½ teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus a pinch

½ cup/45 grams Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup/128 grams all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Heat oven to 375 degrees with a rack set in the center. Generously butter a 12-cup muffin tin.

In a large bowl, combine the eggs and ¾ cup/150 grams granulated sugar and whisk until well combined.

Add the sour cream, ½ cup/113 grams butter, the oil, nutmeg and 1 teaspoon salt; whisk until well combined.

Whisk in the cocoa powder, followed by the baking powder and the baking soda. Then use a flexible spatula to fold in the flour by gently scooping up some batter from the bottom and folding it over the flour on the top. Rotate the bowl and repeat until just incorporated.

Divide the mixture among the 12 wells and bake until the muffins are puffed and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, 18 to 23 minutes.

In a shallow bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup/50 grams granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon and a pinch of salt.

Let the muffins cool in the pan for 5 minutes then transfer them to a rack. Working with one warm muffin at a time, brush it with some remaining melted butter then toss in the cinnamon sugar; repeat with remaining muffins.

Serve immediately. Store any extras in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days. (The sugar will gradually melt into the muffins as they sit, but you can reroll the muffins in cinnamon sugar, if desired.)

TIP: I didn’t have enough sour cream and I really wanted to make them, so I used a scant 1/2 cup sour cream plus approximately 1/4 cup each Greek yogurt and ricotta. They came out perfectly. Next time I’ll try with all Greek yogurt.

I’m gonna ditch the nutmeg and add in a bit of instant coffee to deepen the chocolate flavor. Maybe douse with a glaze!

Three people sent me this recipe and asked me to make them! Considering how easy they are, it was a pleasure.

I made these as mini muffins, doughnut holes, and mini doughnuts. All successful.

Few hints: King Arthur Double Dark Chocolate had the best flavor. Heat and brush melted butter on the pans first to make a crisper crust. I toss baked items in a bag of cinnamon sugar to completely cover. Great glazed with chocolate, others with a simple sugar glaze. One tsp of nutmeg was fine. A keeper!

I made these tonight for a last-minute dinner thing and they are terrific-tender, fluffy and spicy! They came together in no time and everyone-including my neighbor’s 18-month-old granddaughter-loved them. I made mini-muffins (with the cups filled to the top of the well) and baked them for 15 minutes. I got 2 dozen muffins. I used a good teaspoon of nutmeg and might have used more except my hand got tired of grating! The nutmeg is not overpowering & the cinnamon-nutmeg combo really rocks.

Dan Dan Noodles

Dan Dan Noodles

A specialty from Sichuan, a province in the southwest of China, vendors once balanced baskets of noodles and sauce on their shoulder poles and cried out “dan dan mian!” to hawk their wares. Dan dan refers to those bamboo shoulder poles and mian means noodles, but there’s no one way to prepare them. Nowadays in the Western diaspora, the dish is associated with a few essentials, namely chile oil and sesame paste, but another is worth adding: preserved vegetables. Salty and a little sweet with the sour oomph of fermentation, pickled mustard greens give the soothing noodles an umami zing. These noodles are especially rich with sesame, but you can adjust all of the seasonings to your taste. Toasty and salty, tangy on the cliff of funk, chewy with pops of peanut, dan dan noodles are a bowl of contentment.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

FOR THE SAUCE

¼ cup well-stirred Chinese sesame paste or tahini (see Tips)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 to 2 tablespoons chile crisp, preferably Sichuanese, plus more for serving

2 to 3 teaspoons brown sugar

½ teaspoon Chinkiang vinegar or balsamic vinegar

FOR THE MEAT

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ cup ya cai (Sichuan preserved mustard greens) or other finely chopped Chinese pickled or preserved mustard vegetables (see Tips)

1 large garlic clove, finely chopped

8 ounces ground pork

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or other rice wine

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons tian mian jiang (sweet wheat sauce) or hoisin

FOR THE NOODLES

1 pound fresh Chinese wheat noodles (see Tips)

8 to 12 bok choy or gai lan (Chinese broccoli), optional

Chopped roasted, salted peanuts, ground Sichuan peppercorns and finely sliced scallions, for topping

Start the sauce: Set a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, mix the sesame paste, soy sauce, sesame oil, chile crisp, brown sugar and vinegar in a large bowl. The mixture will be thick. Taste and add more chile oil or brown sugar (or other seasonings) to your liking.

Make the meat: Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok or large, deep skillet over high. Add the ya cai and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Scrape half into the sauce bowl. Add the remaining oil to the wok. When it’s hot, add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the pork and cook, smashing it into the vegetables and stirring to break it into tiny bits. When its pinkness fades after a few minutes, add the wine, soy sauce and tian mian jiang, and stir until the pork is cooked through. Keep warm over low.

Finish the sauce: Scoop ¼ cup boiling water from the pot and add to the sauce. Stir until smooth. The sauce should run off the spoon. If it doesn’t, add more boiling water a tablespoon at a time.

Make the noodles: Drop the noodles into the pot of boiling water, stir and cook until there’s still a bite in the center, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the bok choy and cook until bright green and the noodles are just tender, about 1 minute longer. Drain and run under hot tap water to rinse excess starch off the noodles.

Slide the noodles and bok choy over the sauce, scrape the pork and its sauce on top, then sprinkle with peanuts and scallions if you want. Top with more chile crisp if you’d like. Mix well and enjoy immediately.

Tips: Chinese sesame paste has a deep toasted flavor. If using tahini, try to find one made with roasted sesame seeds, such as Joyva. If using tahini ground from raw sesame seeds, add another tablespoon toasted sesame oil.

Sichuan preserved mustard greens, known broadly as ya cai or more specifically as Yibin ya cai for the region from which it comes, come in small foil packets or jars. The dark brown bits of preserved vegetables start as strips of Sichuanese mustard green stems, which are then dried, salted and fermented with a sugar syrup and spices. They end up savory, a little sweet and pleasantly funky. There’s no great substitute, but other varieties of Chinese pickled or preserved mustard greens, such as sui mi ya cai, work. In a Western pantry, a combination of finely chopped capers and finely diced fermented bread-and-butter pickles comes closest.

If you don’t have fresh Chinese wheat noodles, you can use 12 ounces dried lo mein noodles, thin spaghetti or ramen and cook according to the package directions before draining and rinsing.

Cheesy Baked Pasta With Sausage and Ricotta

Cheesy Baked Pasta With Sausage and Ricotta

Like a cross between baked ziti and sausage lasagna, this mozzarella-topped pasta is rich with ricotta and crushed tomatoes — and cooks entirely in one pan, including the pasta. The Italian sausage adds meaty depth to the sauce, but vegetarians can leave it out or use their favorite plant-based sausage instead.

Yield: 4 servings

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¾ pound bulk hot or mild Italian sausage (pork, chicken or turkey)

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon fennel seeds, coarsely crushed

Pinch of red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving (optional)

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes with their juices

1 (14-ounce) can crushed or strained tomatoes

2 bay leaves

Kosher salt

12 ounces dried pasta, such as small shells, farfalle or other shaped pasta

8 ounces fresh mozzarella, torn into bite-size pieces

6 ounces whole-milk ricotta (about ¾ cup)

⅓ cup grated Parmesan

¼ cup basil leaves

Black pepper, for serving

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Heat oil in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet over medium-high. Crumble sausage into skillet, using a spoon to break it into small pieces. Cook until starting to brown, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, fennel seeds and red-pepper flakes (if using), and cook another 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in whole tomatoes and their juice, using a spoon to break them up. Add crushed tomatoes, bay leaves and 2 teaspoons salt, and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes to thicken slightly.

Stir in pasta and 1 cup water and return to a simmer. Continue to simmer for 2 minutes, stirring frequently to make sure pasta doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan. Remove from heat, pluck out the bay leaves, and fold in about a third of the mozzarella.

Top pasta with remaining mozzarella and dollops of ricotta. Sprinkle with Parmesan, then transfer to oven. Bake until pasta is tender when poked with a fork, and cheese is bubbly and lightly golden, 18 to 22 minutes. (If you’d like a more deeply browned topping, run the pan under the broiler for 1 or 2 minutes.) Remove from oven and let cool slightly before serving. Top with basil, plenty of black pepper, and more red-pepper flakes, if you like.

TIP: Rather than put four ounces of unused sausage in the freezer and four ounces of unused pasta in the pantry, we used the full pound of each, upped the measures of strained tomatoes, fennel and oregano by a third, and added a half cup of red wine. Turned out perfectly. We’ll put this one in rotation. The fennel and the fresh basil really take it up a level.

This recipe was a big hit with everyone from the picky kids to the grandparents in attendance that night. I loved the ricotta addition. Whole San Marzano tomatoes are a must. I used orecchiette pasta and it was perfect.

Slipped in about a TB of anchovy paste and subbed green lentils (1 cup) for pasta to make it gluten free. This was great!

Jean: Sub ground turkey with seasoning for sausage, cottage cheese for ricotta, Rao's jar sauce for tomatoes then reduced the salt according to taste.

This was a delicious way to get the flavors of lasagna without the fuss. Here are a few notes:

* I recommend putting some of the basil into the sauce while simmering so that the flavor gets distributed.

* This recipe doesn’t afford enough simmer time to let the whole tomatoes break down. I would recommend giving them a chop first, or snip,with scissors while in the pan.

* For those who had issues with the pasta not cooking, simply use a smaller walled pasta. I used macaroni and it was fine.

To use a full 16oz box of pasta, two 28oz cans whole tomatoes is perfect, skip the crushed, little bit of extra herbs and garlic, and dear god only 1 teaspoon of salt. Deglazing pan after sausage with 1/2c red wine adds excellent flavor. And best way to get the tomatoes broken down to the perfect size? Old school potato masher.

Banana Chocolate Chip Muffins

Banana Chocolate Chip Muffins

If you are the proud owner of a few overripe bananas, these chocolate-studded muffins are one of the best bang-for-your-buck treats you’ll find. They come together in one bowl in about half an hour, and packing them with mashed banana and Greek yogurt keeps them exceptionally soft and tender. There is just enough chocolate added to give them a little flavor boost without being totally overpowering. You could even stir in ½ cup of toasted chopped walnuts for more flavor and texture.

Yield: 12 muffins

4 tablespoons / 85 grams unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the pan

1 ½ cups / 330 grams mashed ripe bananas (about 3 large)

½ cup / 100 grams granulated sugar

½ cup / 120 grams Greek yogurt

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons avocado or vegetable oil

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups / 256 grams all-purpose flour

½ cup / 85 grams semisweet chocolate chips

2 tablespoons turbinado sugar (optional)

Heat the oven to 375 degrees with a rack set in the center. Generously butter a 12-cup muffin tin (or, if you prefer, line with paper liners).

In a large bowl, combine the bananas, sugar, yogurt, eggs, melted butter, oil, vanilla and salt. Whisk until combined. Whisk in the baking powder and baking soda, then use a flexible spatula to gently fold in the flour. When there are a few streaks of flour left, add the chocolate chips and fold until well combined.

Divide the mixture among the wells of the muffin tin (using about ⅓ cup of batter per well) and sprinkle each with turbinado sugar, if using. Bake the muffins until they are puffed and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean or with a bit of chocolate, about 20 minutes.

Let the muffins cool in the pan for 5 minutes then remove them to a rack to cool.

Serve immediately or store extras in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

TIP: Liked them a lot. Added an extra banana because I had 4 going south. Not overly dense as a result. Flavor was perfect.

Extra-Crispy Brussels Sprouts

Extra-Crispy Brussels Sprouts

While nothing compares to the crackle of restaurant-made, deep-fried brussels sprouts, these get satisfyingly close. After multiple rounds of testing variables like oven temperature, rack placement, adding cornstarch or honey, starting with a cold oven or on the stovetop, et cetera ad nauseum, this method — roasting the oiled and seasoned sprouts on a preheated sheet pan — produced the most consistently crispy results. Be sure to use any exterior leaves that fall off the sprouts; they will roast up into delightfully crackly chips.

Yield: 4 servings

1 pound brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and black pepper

Place a sheet pan in the center rack of the oven and heat to 425 degrees. Meanwhile, trim the brussels sprouts and halve (or quarter if they’re quite large). Transfer the brussels sprouts to a medium bowl, reserving any loose leaves on the cutting board.

Sprinkle the cut brussels sprouts with oil, salt and pepper. Toss until well coated. Working quickly, pour the brussels sprouts onto the heated sheet pan and arrange them cut-sides down. Make sure there’s plenty of room between them. (Reserve the oily bowl.) Roast, without flipping, for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, transfer the loose leaves to the bowl and toss to coat in the residual oil. After the brussels sprouts have roasted for 10 minutes, add the leaves around the brussels sprouts (no need to flip). Roast until everything is browned and crisp on the top and bottom, another 5 to 10 minutes. Eat right away; the brussels sprouts will soften as they sit.

TIP: So good with a little balsamic glaze drizzled before serving! Best way to make Brussels!

Do skip the flip, it's better (learned this by accident). But why fuss with a hot sheet pan or loose leaves? Just arrange on parchment, cut side down, with adequate spacing and loose leaves tucked anywhere, 425° for 25 minutes.

Mushroom Bourguignon

Mushroom Bourguignon

Meaty mushrooms simmered with pearl onions, wine and carrots make for a rich, wintry Bourguignon-style stew. The quality of the stock here makes a big difference, so if you’re not using homemade, buy a good brand. If you’re a meat eater, beef broth adds a familiar brawny character to this dish, but mushroom or vegetable broth works just as well, especially because the whole dish is rounded out with a tamari for depth. For the best flavor, use as many kinds of mushrooms as you can get, and let them really brown when searing; that caramelization adds a lot of depth to the sauce. Maitake mushrooms give this a brisket-like texture, in a very good way.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

6 tablespoons butter or extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

2 pounds mixed mushrooms, such as portobello, cremini, white button, shiitake or oyster, cut into 1-inch chunks (about 10 cups)

8 ounces peeled pearl onions (2 cups), larger ones cut in half

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large leek or 2 small leeks, white and light green parts, diced (1 ½ cups)

2 carrots, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves (2 minced, 1 grated to a paste)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 ½ tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 ½ cups dry red wine

1 ½ cups beef, mushroom or vegetable broth

1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce, plus more to taste

3 large fresh thyme branches or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

3 to 4 ounces chanterelle or oyster mushrooms, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

Smoked paprika, for serving

Polenta, egg noodles or mashed potatoes, for serving

Chopped flat-leaf parsley, for serving

Add 2 tablespoons butter or oil to a large Dutch oven or pot and set it over medium heat. When the fat is hot, stir in half the mushrooms and half the pearl onions. (If it doesn’t all fit in the pot in one layer, you might have to do this in three batches, rather than two.) Without moving them around too much, cook the mushrooms until they are brown on one side, about 3 minutes. Stir and let them brown on the other side, 2 to 3 minutes more. Use a slotted spoon to transfer mushrooms and onions to a large bowl or plate and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Repeat with another 2 tablespoons butter and the remaining mushrooms and pearl onions, seasoning them as you go.

Reduce heat to medium-low. Add another 1 tablespoon butter or oil to pan. Add leeks and carrot and sauté until the leeks turn lightly golden and start to soften, 5 minutes. Add the 2 minced garlic cloves and sauté for 1 minute longer. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Stir in flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then add wine, broth, 1 tablespoon tamari, thyme and bay leaf, scraping up the brown bits at bottom of pot.

Add reserved cooked mushrooms and pearl onions back to the pot and bring to a simmer. Partly cover the pot and simmer on low heat until carrots and onions are tender and sauce is thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Taste and add more salt and tamari if needed. Stir in the grated garlic clove.

Just before serving, heat a small skillet over high heat and add ½ tablespoon butter or oil. Add half of the sliced chanterelles or oyster mushrooms and let cook without moving until they are crisp and brown on one side, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and cook on the other side. Transfer to a plate and sprinkle with salt and smoked paprika. Repeat with remaining butter and mushrooms. Serve mushroom Bourguignon over polenta, noodles or mashed potatoes, topped with fried mushrooms and parsley.

TIP: Dried mushrooms work well. One ounce will replace 8 ounces of fresh. Reconstitute by soaking in boiling water for 30 minutes. Lift the mushroom pieces out of the liquid and cut as needed. Let the liquid stand for a few minutes to let any grit settle, then pour off the clear liquid and use it as part of the broth in the recipe. Discard the murky remains.

Many varieties of dried mushrooms are available in supermarkets and stores like Trader Joe's, Aldi and Sprouts & online through Amazon.

I roasted the mushrooms for 20 minutes in a 450 degree oven with some EVOO, S&P and thyme first. Then followed everything up to step 3, added the mushrooms and onions back in, covered the Dutch oven and let it chill out in a 350 degree oven for one hour. Worked like a charm, concentrated the flavors, with less stove time.

Chickpea Tomato-Rice Soup

Chickpea Tomato-Rice Soup

This soup reorganizes all the essential parts of rice and beans into something entirely different. In this version, the rice simmers directly in a spicy tomato broth made smoky by chipotles, and creamy from the starchy rice. While the soup simmers, chickpeas roast until crispy — ready to sprinkle generously on top for a contrast in texture (and extra protein). As the soup cools, it thickens to a risotto-like texture that when served with a dollop of yogurt stirred in, becomes rich and satisfying, and perfect for a cold winter night at home.

Yield: 4 servings

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

4 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

Kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

4 plum tomatoes, roughly chopped (about 12 ounces)

½ large onion, peeled and roughly chopped (about 6 ounces)

2 garlic cloves, peeled

1 cup long-grain white rice, such as jasmine

2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo, roughly chopped

4 cups vegetable or chicken broth

Full-fat plain Greek yogurt and lime wedges (optional), for serving

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Wrap chickpeas in a clean dishtowel and shake vigorously to dry them thoroughly. Place the chickpeas on a sheet pan along with 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt, the garlic powder and cumin, and roll them around to coat them in the oil and spices. Bake until crispy, about 20 minutes, shaking the pan once halfway through to toss the chickpeas.

While chickpeas roast, add the tomatoes, onion, and garlic cloves to a blender with 1½ teaspoons salt and 2 cups water and blend until smooth. Set aside. 

In a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium high. Add the rice and chipotles and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and the rice has begun to toast, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato mixture plus the vegetable broth. Bring to a brisk simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, lower to a gentle simmer, and cook, partially covered, until rice is tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Taste for salt.

To serve, ladle soup into bowls and top with a dollop of yogurt, a generous sprinkling of crispy chickpeas and a squeeze of lime. The soup will thicken as it sits and can be enjoyed as a porridge or thinned with more broth or water.

Strawberry-Lemon Loaf Cake

Strawberry-Lemon Loaf Cake

This cake is summer in a loaf pan. When baked, strawberries can become sour and a little gummy. Here, berries are macerated with sugar first to remove some of their liquid and concentrate their flavor. (Don’t use frozen strawberries. Keep those for your smoothie!) The lemon icing adds a nice finish, to balance and bolster the cake’s tart-sweetness. Have it as dessert or a snack, but it’s especially good at breakfast with hot coffee or tea. 

Yield: One 9-inch loaf

FOR THE CAKE

Nonstick cooking spray

1 cup/150 grams diced strawberries 

1 cup/200 grams plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 ½ cups/192 grams all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon lemon zest (from 1 lemon)

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)

1 cup/227 grams sour cream, at room temperature

½ cup/110 grams vegetable oil

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

FOR THE LEMON GLAZE

1 cup/123 grams confectioners’ sugar

1 tablespoon lemon zest (from 1 lemon)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Make the cake: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray and set aside.

In a small bowl, toss the strawberries with 1 tablespoon sugar to macerate while you prepare the cake batter.

In a large bowl, combine the flour, lemon zest, baking powder, salt and remaining 1 cup sugar. Whisk to combine. In a second large bowl, combine the sour cream, oil, eggs, lemon juice and vanilla extract. Whisk to combine.

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry, and stir gently to mix. Lift the macerated berries out of their liquid and add them to the batter. Gently fold in the berries until evenly incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan. Bake until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean, 60 to 70 minutes. If it looks to be browning on top too much, tent with aluminum foil. Cool it in the pan on a rack for about 10 minutes, then unmold the cake carefully and transfer to the rack to cool completely.

Make the glaze: In a small bowl, combine the confectioners’ sugar with the lemon zest and juice and stir until smooth. Pour the glaze over the cooled cake. Let stand until set.

TIP: This looks like the glorious lemon drizzle cake I’ve made twice this summer, although mine was vegan. As with all good lemon drizzle cakes, you make lots of small holes in the top of the cake just after you take it out of the oven. Then you drizzle a lemon simple syrup over the cake, concentrating on those holes. When it’s cool, you it glaze it just as with this recipe. I decorated the cake with lemon zest and sliced strawberries. Everyone loved it.

I didn't read all the notes from others so someone else could have suggested this, but I used some of the liquid from the macerated strawberries along with a reduced portion of the lemon juice in the glaze. Why throw away all that flavor? It also makes for a nice pinkish glaze.