Spicy Roasted Tomato Soup

Spicy Roasted Tomato Soup

In this twist on classic tomato soup, Calabrian chiles turn up the heat and the oven does most of the  heavy lifting in creating a flavorful base. Roasting fresh tomatoes concentrates their natural flavors, which makes the method  an excellent way to use up any forgotten, bruised or out of season tomatoes. Oil-packed chiles add complex flavor and zippy spice,while a splash of heavy cream lends body and balances the heat. If you’re sensitive to spice, start with a smaller amount of chiles as you can always add more when blending or as a garnish. Each spoonful should warm (but not burn) the back of your throat, then settle before the next bite.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds medium to large tomatoes, cut into eighths

1 medium yellow onion (about 7 ounces), cut into 1-inch chunks

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 

1 to 2 whole oil-packed Calabrian chiles (stems removed), plus 1 teaspoon of the oil (or ½ to 1 tablespoon chopped Calabrian chiles in oil), plus more for serving (see Tip)

3 tablespoons tomato paste 

5 teaspoons olive oil 

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper 

½ teaspoon dried basil

1 quart (4 cups) low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth 

½ teaspoon sugar (see Tip) 

3 tablespoons heavy cream, plus more for serving

In a large Dutch oven or oven-safe, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the tomatoes, onion, garlic, Calabrian chiles and oil, tomato paste, olive oil, 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper and dried basil. Toss until the vegetables are evenly coated with the oil and tomato paste. 

Place the pot in the oven, uncovered, and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Roast until the tomatoes are soft and the juices have been released and start to bubble and thicken around the sides of the pot, 25 to 30 minutes total (including the oven heating), stirring halfway through. 

Transfer the pot to a burner over high heat and stir in the broth and sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until a fork easily pierces the vegetables, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cream. 

Use a blender (working in batches as needed) or immersion blender to blend the soup until smooth. Season to taste with salt. Serve warm with a drizzle of cream or Calabrian chile oil, if desired. 

Tips: The soup gets a lot of flavor from the Calabrian chile, but if needed, you can substitute with ½ to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper plus 1 teaspoon olive oil. After blending, stir in 1 ½ to 2 teaspoons lemon juice until the soup tastes bright.

If the soup tastes too acidic for your liking, you can balance it with a pinch or two more sugar. Use sparingly.

Vietnamese Style Braised And Caramelized With Coconut Juice Fish

Vietnamese Style Braised And Caramelized With Coconut Juice Fish 

越式魚露椰子水燴魚扒

Ingredients:

1 lb (450 g) fish fillets (such as catfish, tilapia, or salmon)

1 cup coconut juice

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sugar (preferably palm sugar)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 onion, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

1-2 bird’s eye chilies, chopped (optional)

1 teaspoon black pepper

2-3 scallions, chopped

Fresh cilantro for garnish

Cooked jasmine rice, for serving

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Caramel Sauce:

In a large saucepan or clay pot, add the sugar and 2 tablespoons of water. Heat over medium-low until the sugar melts and turns into a rich caramel color. Be careful not to burn the sugar.

2. Sauté Aromatics:

Add the vegetable oil to the caramel sauce, followed by the chopped onion, minced garlic, and chopped bird’s eye chilies (if using). Sauté until the onions become translucent and fragrant.

3. Cook the Fish:

Gently place the fish fillets into the pot, spooning the caramel mixture over them. Let the fish cook for about 2-3 minutes on each side to absorb the flavors.

4. Add Liquids:

Pour in the coconut juice, fish sauce, and soy sauce. Stir gently to combine, making sure the fish is well-coated. Bring the mixture to a simmer.

5. Simmer:

Reduce the heat to low and cover the pot. Let the fish simmer for about 20-25 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through and the sauce has thickened. You can occasionally spoon the sauce over the fish to keep it moist and flavorful.

6. Finish:

Sprinkle black pepper and chopped scallions over the fish. Let it cook for an additional 2-3 minutes.

7. Serve:

Carefully transfer the fish to a serving plate, garnishing with fresh cilantro. Serve hot with steamed jasmine rice.

Tips:

🔸If you prefer a thicker sauce, let the mixture simmer uncovered for the last 5-10 minutes to reduce the liquid.

🔸Adjust the level of heat by adding more or fewer bird’s eye chilies according to your preference.

🔸This dish is traditionally cooked in a clay pot, which helps retain heat and evenly distribute flavors, but a regular saucepan works well too. 

Mayak Eggs

Upgraded Mayak Eggs (with Bonito Powder)

Ingredients (for about 6 eggs)

6 eggs, 100 ml soy sauce, 100 ml water, 1.5 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp mirin (optional), 1 tbsp minced garlic, 2 green onions, chopped, 1/4 onion, finely diced (optional), 1 chili pepper, sliced, 1 tsp sesame seeds, 1–2 tsp bonito powder (katsuobushi powder)

Instructions

1) Cook the soft-boiled eggs

1. Bring water to a boil.

2. Add the eggs and cook for 6–7 minutes (6 minutes for runny, 7 minutes for jammy).

3. Immediately transfer eggs to ice water for at least 5 minutes to stop cooking.

4. Peel and set aside.

2) Make the marinade (with bonito powder)

Mix all of the following in a bowl:

Soy sauce, Water, Sugar, Mirin, Garlic, Green onions, Onion, Chili, Sesame seeds, Bonito powder (1–2 tsp)

Stir until the sugar and bonito powder dissolve.

Bonito powder adds depth and umami. Avoid adding too much, or the flavor can become overpowering.

3) Marinate the eggs

Place the peeled eggs into an airtight container.

Pour the marinade over the eggs.

Refrigerate for at least 6 hours — overnight tastes the best.

Tips (Bonito version)

For extra umami, replace water with Japanese dashi stock.

Bonito powder absorbs flavor quickly, so the marinade will taste best after resting overnight.

You can increase bonito powder to 2.5 tsp if you like stronger flavor, but avoid going too heavy.

 升級版麻藥蛋（加入堅魚粉）

材料（約 6 顆）

雞蛋 6 顆, 醬油 100 ml, 清水 100 ml, 糖 1.5 大, 味醂 1 大匙（可省略, 蒜蓉 1 大匙, 青蔥 2 條（切粒, 洋蔥 1/4 個（切碎，可省略), 辣椒 1 支（切圈), 芝麻 1 小匙, 堅魚粉 1–2 小匙（依個人口味調整）

做法

1. 煮溏心蛋

同原本做法：

水滾 → 放蛋 → 中火 6–7 分鐘 → 立即冰水冷卻 → 剝殼備用。

2. 調麻藥醬汁（加入堅魚粉）

把以下材料全部混合：

醬油, 清水, 糖, 味醂, 蒜蓉, 青蔥, 洋蔥碎, 辣椒,芝麻, 堅魚粉 1–2 小匙

攪拌至堅魚粉及糖溶化即可。

📌 堅魚粉加入後風味會更鮮，但建議不要加太多，以免味道變混濁。

3. 醃蛋

把蛋放進密實盒，倒入全部醬汁。

放雪櫃至少 6 小時，隔夜味道最理想。

🍽️ 小貼士（加入堅魚粉版）

▫️如果想更鮮味，可把清水改成 日式高湯（dashi）。

▫️堅魚粉吸味快，醬汁第二天味道最平衡。

▫️喜歡更濃口的可把堅魚粉增加到 2.5 小匙，但不建議超過。

Homemade French Crepes

Homemade French Crepes 自家製法式班戟

I make some crepes specifically for my sister, who always enjoys my homemade crepes.

Ingredients:

3 cups All Purpose Flour

5 cups of whole milk or 2 % milk

8 eggs

Just a pinch of salt

2 tablespoon of cooking oil (not olive oil)

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and thoroughly stir. To make the batter smoother, strain it through a strainer. To create the crepes, heat a crepe pan over medium-low heat. You may make 16 to 17 crepes with the components listed above. 

Tips:

1 To make less, you can reduce the ingredients by half.

2 By separating each cooked crepe with a piece of parchment paper and placing it in a zip-lock bag, you may keep them in the freezer. To eat it, simply pop it into the microwave whenever you want.

English Scones

English Scones recipe

Ingredients:

480 g all purpose flour

115 g granulated sugar

4 tsp baking powder

115 g unsalted butter

1 egg 

200 ml milk 

1 cup of dried figs (cut in small pieces)

1 egg yolk (it's for egg wash)

Preheat oven at 325F

* To start, combine the dried ingredients (all-purpose flour, sugar, and baking powder) in a bowl.

*Before adding the butter to the dried ingredients, chop the unsalted butter into small pieces. Mash the butter with the dried ingredients using your hands.

Gradually add the milk and egg to the flour mixture to create a dough by first combining the egg and milk in a cup.

*Fruit the dough evenly with the dried figs.

Divide the dough into 16 pieces at this point.

*The dough can be rolled into a circle and put on a baking sheet.

The dough should be egg-washed before being placed in the oven for 20 minutes on the centre rack.

2nd Version: 

Scones recipe:

480 g All purpose flour

6 tsp Baking powder

115 g Unsalted butter - room temperature

1 Large size egg 

80 g Granulated sugar

1 egg for egg wash, to apply egg wash before baking the scones.

🔺️Oven heat 350 F/ 175 C ( adjust your own oven heat due to different type of oven has different results)

🔺️Bake Time : 20

🔺️ Middle rack

Method:

🔸️Use your hand or a food processor to mix the flour and butter without lumps, this helps to make the scones have flaky texture.

🔸️Then add all other ingredients in the mixed butter and flour to form a dough.

🔸️Roll the dough at around 2 inches thick and use a round cookie cutter to make a round shape scone. (Of course, you can make your own shapes whatever way you like. )

🔸️Put the sconces on a baking sheet

🔸️Apply egg wash to the scones

🔸️Preheated oven at 350F/ 175C

🔸️Bake for 20 minutes on a middle rack

Pork Laab

Pork Laab

The magic of pork laab (also known as moo larb or laap) lies in the simple yet strikingly effective combo of fresh herbs and toasted rice to season this ground meat salad. Cilantro, scallions and mint balance the richness of the meat, while the nutty flavor of the ground rice — an essential component of laab — complements the zingy lime juice. Many Thai recipes call for ingredients that can be tough to find in the U.S., but this northern Thai salad is an outlier. You can opt for dried Thai chiles, if you’ve got them, or you can achieve your desired heat level by grinding up crushed red pepper.

Yield: 4 servings as part of a larger Thai meal, 2 servings as a main course

3 tablespoons uncooked jasmine rice

1 pound ground pork

1 small shallot, thinly sliced

3 to 4 tablespoons lime juice (about 1½ limes)

2 tablespoons fish sauce

½ to 1½ teaspoons ground red chiles (preferably Thai; see Tip), to taste

¼ cup packed cilantro leaves and stems, chopped

2 scallions, thinly sliced

¼ cup packed fresh mint leaves, roughly torn, plus more for serving

Raw green cabbage wedges, long beans, cucumber slices, and lettuce leaves, for serving

In a small, dry skillet, toast the rice on medium for 10 minutes until browned and fragrant, shaking or stirring often. Cool completely. Grind in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder until a coarse powder, like cornmeal.

In a medium saucepan, combine the pork and 1 tablespoon water. Cook on medium 5 minutes, until pork is cooked through but not browned, breaking up into small bits and stirring often. Remove from heat.

To the pork, add the shallot, lime juice, fish sauce and chile. Stir to combine. Add the cilantro and scallions.

Just before serving, stir in half of the toasted ground rice. Taste and add remaining rice for more crunch, if desired. Fold in the mint. Transfer to a serving dish. Garnish with more mint, if desired. Serve with cabbage wedges, long beans, cucumbers and lettuce leaves.

Tip: If you can’t find ground Thai chiles, you can finely grind crushed red pepper flakes in a spice grinder. Just be careful when removing the lid of your spice grinder, as the potent dust cloud that floats up can be cough inducing.

Laab moo has been on heavy rotation in my house for about 15 years, since I watched a lady in Thailand make it and asked her to share the ingredients with me. This is the closest recipe I’ve ever seen to the one I make. I use chopped fresh Thai birdseye chillies and add them to the cooked pork mince with the lime juice and the fish sauce to steep while I chop and mix the remaining salad-y bits, before mixing everything together. I like it hot! Also I don’t bother with toasting/grinding rice, too much faff for me - I use bashed up raw cashews. Eaten in baby gem lettuce cups. SO GOOD.

This is so delish and simple. Don’t skip the rice- it’s easier than you think, and gives the dish its authentic crunch. I served with gem lettuce, extra cilantro, mint, hot pepper, shredded cabbage, and carrots and cukes sliced into oblong discs onto which you can pile the laab… Super summer meal!

Brothy Meatballs With Greens

Brothy Meatballs With Greens

These meatballs start the way many good ones do, with eggs and panko mixed together first and given a few minutes to sit so the bread crumbs can fully soften. That small step makes all the difference, giving you meatballs that stay light and tender once they hit the pan. After they’ve browned, everything finishes together with broth, greens and fregola, a small toasted Sardinian pasta that turns pleasantly plump as it cooks. The meatballs gently season the broth while the fregola and greens soak it up. A small knob of butter, swirled in toward the end to emulsify the broth, gives the whole pot a little richness. The results land somewhere between soup and pasta, deeply comforting but still light enough that you’ll likely keep wanting another spoonful.

Yield: 4 servings

2 large eggs

½ cup panko bread crumbs

5 garlic cloves (2 finely grated, 3 thinly sliced) 

1 teaspoon fennel seeds 

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 pound ground pork, beef, lamb or turkey 

1½ teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 

1 cup fregola or pearl couscous 

1 bunch kale (any variety) or Swiss chard, stems removed, coarsely torn 

3 cups chicken broth or water 

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces 

Lemon wedges, for serving

Parmesan, for serving

Crack the eggs in a large bowl and then lightly beat them using a fork. Add the panko, grated garlic, fennel seeds and crushed red pepper, and give it a stir. Let the panko mixture sit for 5 to 10 minutes to allow the bread crumbs to soak up the eggs. (This will make sure your meatballs stay light.) Add the ground meat, season with salt and use your hands to combine everything together. Using wet hands, roll the mixture into about 12 golfball-size rounds.

Heat the olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high. Add the meatballs and cook, carefully turning every 2 to 3 minutes with tongs, until browned and crispy on all sides, about 10 minutes total (the meatballs will cook more later). Transfer to a large plate, leaving all that delicious fat in the pot.

Meanwhile, cook the fregola in a medium pot of salted water until about 2 minutes shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain.

Return the pot with the reserved fat to medium heat and add the sliced garlic. Cook, stirring, until fragrant and softened, about 1 minute. Add the greens and stock, then season with salt and bring to a simmer. Return the meatballs to the pot and cook until the greens are tender and the meatballs are cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes.

Add the fregola, butter and ¼ cup of the reserved pasta water. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the fregola is al dente and the sauce comes together, 2 to 3 minutes. Add more pasta water as needed.

Divide among bowls and finish with lemon juice and Parmesan.

Tomato-Lentil Salad With Spicy Tahini

Tomato-Lentil Salad With Spicy Tahini

This satisfying, sweet and spicy tomato salad is vegan, no-cook and rich in fiber and protein to boot. Tomato chunks and cooked lentils marinate in lemon juice, olive oil and salt, which seasons the lentils and concentrates the tomato flavor. A heap of sweet basil is stirred in — think of it as the salad’s leafy green — and a swirl of two-ingredient tahini-chile sauce adds pockets of heat, nuttiness and creaminess. Feel free to expand the salad (feta, cucumbers and sliced toasted almonds would all be welcome) or serve with grilled protein, salad greens, flatbread or toast. If you’re heat-averse, try this balsamic tahini sauce instead.

Yield: 4 servings

2 (15-ounce) cans lentils, drained, rinsed and shaken dry (or 3 cups cooked green or black lentils from 1 ½ cups dry lentils)

1 ½ pounds ripe tomatoes (or 2 pints cherry tomatoes), cut into bite-size pieces

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)

Salt

¼ cup stirred tahini

1 tablespoon chile crisp, harissa or another chile paste, plus more to taste

1 ½ loosely packed cups basil leaves, torn 

Toasted sesame seeds, for serving 

In a large bowl, combine the lentils, tomatoes, oil, lemon juice and a big pinch of salt. Stir to combine. In a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, stir together the tahini and chili crisp. Add cold water until pourable, then taste and add more chile crisp and salt until the sauce is a little too spicy. (It will be tamed by the lentils.)

Stir the basil gently into the salad. Serve the salad drizzled with the tahini sauce and showered with sesame seeds. Season to taste with salt.

Andrea's Rice Noodle Salad Bowl with Grilled Pork

Andrea's Rice Noodle Salad Bowl with Grilled Pork

To grill the pork, you will need eight to ten 6-inch (15-cm) skewers. If using wooden skewers, choose sturdy flat or thick round ones, which hold up better than flimsier ones, and be sure to soak them in hot water for 20 minutes before using them so they don’t burn on the grill.

Making her Any Day Viet Pickle is totally optional, but Nguyen notes that the pickled veggies add another dimension to this already flavorful dish. The recipe makes more than you will need, but it will keep in the refrigerator for a month, so she likes to keep it around to add color, crunch and tang to all sorts of Vietnamese dishes.

For the Any Day Viet Pickle (optional):

2 watermelon radishes, each about 8 oz. (250 g), or 1 daikon radish, about 1 lb. (500 g)

1 carrot, about 6 oz. (185 g)

1 tsp. fine sea salt

2 tsp. plus 1/2 cup sugar

1 1/4 cups (10 fl. oz./310 ml) distilled white vinegar, preferably Heinz

1 cup (8 fl. oz./250 ml) lukewarm water

For the grilled pork:

3 garlic cloves

1/2 cup (2 oz./60 g) coarsely chopped shallots or yellow onion

1/4 tsp. plus 1/8 tsp. freshly ground pepper

1/2 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder

1 1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar, or 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar

1/2 tsp. molasses or dark amber honey

1 1/2 Tbs. fish sauce

1 tsp. soy sauce

1 1/2 Tbs. canola or other neutral oil, plus more for grilling

1 1/4 lb. (625 g) boneless pork shoulder or boneless country-style pork ribs

Vegetable oil for brushing

For the nuoc cham:

2 to 2 1/2 Tbs. sugar, or 3 to 4 Tbs. maple syrup

3 to 4 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1/2 cup (4 fl. oz./125 ml) warm water, or as needed

2 tsp. unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar (if needed)

3 to 4 Tbs. fish sauce

1 or 2 Thai or serrano chiles, thinly sliced and with seeds kept intact, or 2 to 3 tsp. chile garlic

sauce or sambal oelek (optional)

1 large garlic clove, minced (optional)

1/2 small carrot, cut into thin matchsticks or coarsely grated (optional)

For assembling:

1 package (6 to 8 oz./185 to 250 g) small dried round rice noodles (maifun), or 1 package (10 to

12 oz./310 to 375 g) dried rice capellini

2/3 cup (4 oz./125 g) unsalted roasted peanuts or cashew pieces, coarsely chopped if large

1/4 cup (1 1/2 oz./45 g) fried onions or shallots (optional)

4 cups baby lettuce mix or leaves from soft-leaf lettuces, such as butter, Boston or green leaf, cut into narrow ribbons, with spines intact

3 or 4 handfuls bean sprouts, or 1 Persian cucumber, shaved with a vegetable peeler into thin strips, or both

1/2 cup (3/4 oz./20 g) hand-torn fresh mint, basil or cilantro leaves or dill fronds, or a combination

To make the Any Day Viet Pickle, thinly slice the radishes, or peel and cut the daikon into sticks about 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Peel and cut the carrot into sticks about 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and a scant 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick.

Put both vegetables in a bowl and toss with the salt and 2 tsp. sugar. Massage and knead for 3 minutes, or set aside for 20 minutes. They will lose about a quarter of their original volume.

Rinse the vegetables with water, drain in a mesh strainer or colander, and press or shake to expel any excess water. Transfer to a 4-cup (32 fl. oz./1 l) jar.

In a medium bowl, stir together the remaining 1/2 cup (4 oz./125 g) sugar with the vinegar and 1 cup (8 fl. oz./250 ml) water until dissolved. Pour enough of the liquid into the jar to cover the vegetables, discard any excess and let sit for 1 hour. Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 1 month.

To make the grilled pork, first make the marinade: In a small food processor, combine the garlic, shallot, pepper, five-spice powder, sugar, molasses, fish sauce, soy sauce and canola oil, then whirl into a slightly coarse, liquid-y marinade. (Or, using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic, shallot and sugar together, then and mix in the other ingredients.) Transfer the marinade to a large bowl.

Cut the pork across the grain into strips about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and a scant 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Add the pork to the marinade and massage to coat well. Thread the meat onto the skewers, covering most of each skewer. Give each loaded skewer a gentle squeeze to ensure that the meat hugs the skewer. Set on a plate, cover and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.

While the pork is marinating, make the nuoc cham: In a small bowl, combine 2 Tbs. of the sugar (or 3 Tbs. of the maple syrup), 3 Tbs. of the lime juice and the water. Taste and, if needed, add the remaining 1 1/2 tsp. sugar (or 1 Tbs. maple syrup) and/or the remaining 1 Tbs. lime juice; dilute with water if you go too far. If there’s an unpleasant tart-bitter edge to the mixture, add the vinegar to adjust the flavor.

Add the fish sauce to the bowl; how much you will need depends on the brand and your own taste. Aim for a bold, forward finish that’s a little gutsy. (Keep in mind that this sauce will dress unsalted ingredients such as lettuce and herbs, which will need an extra flavor lift.) If desired, add the chiles, garlic and/or carrot. (You can also offer the chiles on the side if some diners are sensitive to them.) The sauce can be made up to 8 hours before serving and stored, covered, at room temperature.

To prepare the remaining ingredients, bring a large pot of unsalted water to a boil. Boil the noodles until tender, according to the package instructions; the cooking time depends on the noodle and the brand. Drain in a colander, rinse with cold water and set aside to drain well. Put the nuoc cham in a serving bowl. Set the nuts and fried onions (if using) near the stove.

Divide the lettuce and bean sprouts among four large soup or pasta bowls (you’ll need room later to mix and toss). Add the fresh herbs, reserving 2 Tbs. for garnish. Top with a layer of noodles. Tuck a small pile of pickles (if using) into each bowl. Set near the stove.

Lightly brush the pork with oil. Lightly oil a cast-iron stove-top grill pan and set over medium-high heat. Alternatively, prepare a medium-hot fire in a grill.

Grill the pork, turning the skewers and brushing with oil frequently, until the meat is slightly charred and cooked through, 8 to 12 minutes. Nick a piece of the pork with the point of a knife to check for doneness. Divide the meat among the bowls, either leaving it on the skewers or sliding it off. Top with the nuts, fried onions and reserved herbs.

Serve the bowls with the sauce on the side. Have diners dress and toss their own bowls. Serves 4.

Charred Shrimp With Shimi Sauce

Charred Shrimp With Shimi Sauce

One of the chef Lay Alston’s signature recipes, which she calls shimi sauce, is an herb-forward blend modeled after chimichurri with a few twists of her own — bird’s-eye chiles for a spicy kick, a dab of miso and coconut sugar to lend mild sweetness, and fish sauce to add a savory depth. The confetti-like sauce holds together well and is loosened with lime juice for a pop of acidity. The sauce lovingly coats shrimp here, but can go over any seafood, meat or vegetable. Ms. Alston often serves the dish at her pop-up dining series Yaya’s Crib, which she hosts out of kitchen spaces in San Diego, with a mission to create accessible culinary spaces for herself and her guests. She recommends taking your time when charring the shrimp and her words sound like poetry: “The pan hisses when the shrimp hit the pan … and for a moment the kitchen fills with that clean, briny scent of the ocean meeting heat. You don’t rush this part. You let the shrimp tell you when they’re ready.” Ms. Alston recommends serving the shrimp “with warm jasmine rice and a summer salad: charred corn, juicy tomatoes and ripe mango that tastes like sunshine that stayed a little longer than expected.”

Yield: 4 servings

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 

2 to 3 Thai chiles, seeds in or out

1 (½-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed and roughly chopped (2 teaspoons)

1 shallot, halved and roughly chopped

Leaves from 4 fresh thyme sprigs

1 bunch fresh cilantro, trimmed and roughly chopped (2 cups)

1 small bunch fresh mint, leaves picked and roughly chopped (¾ cup)

2 scallions, thinly sliced

2 limes (1 zested and juiced and 1 cut in wedges, for serving)

1 tablespoon coconut sugar or light brown sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 teaspoon white miso 

Salt and white pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons safflower, canola or grapeseed oil, plus more for brushing the pan

Salt and white pepper, to taste

1 pound peeled and deveined jumbo shrimp, tails on or off 

Steamed jasmine rice, for serving

In a food processor, pulse together the garlic, chiles, ginger, shallot and thyme leaves for about 1 minute, and move to a medium bowl. Add the cilantro, mint and scallions to the food processor and pulse, scraping down the sides once, until the herbs resemble confetti, 2 minutes. Transfer the chopped herbs to the same bowl. Toss to combine, and stir in the lime zest and juice. 

The coconut sugar goes in next, dissolving slowly as you stir, softening the edges of the heat. Fish sauce follows, deep and savory, anchoring everything so it doesn’t float away. The white miso folds in quietly, almost disappearing, but changing everything it touches. Taste it: not once, twice, maybe three times. It should hit you in waves: first, bright citrus, then heat, then something deeper that makes you pause for half a second longer than expected. Adjust by seasoning lightly with salt and pepper until it feels alive. This is your shimi sauce. Set it aside for now.

Now, the shrimp: In a medium bowl, toss the shrimp with 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle lightly with salt. 

Heat a large (10- to 12-inch) cast-iron pan or a large griddle pan over high. Get the pan hot enough that you hesitate for a second before committing, but do it anyway, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a paper towel dipped in oil to lightly grease the pan. The oil will shimmer and begin to smoke lightly. (Alternatively, heat a grill to medium-high. Lightly grease the grates using a paper towel dipped in oil.)

Lay the shrimp in the pan in a single layer and let them sear without moving. The edges should char just enough to remind you that fire is part of the story here, about 4 minutes. Flip quickly and allow to sear on the heat for 1 minute more. Pull them from the hot pan and lay them into the bowl with the shimi sauce. (The heat will carry over for perfectly cooked shrimp.) Work in batches for this step if your pan is small.

Now, toss the warm shrimp in the shimi sauce. Watch it cling, slide and pool into every ridge and curve, about 2 minutes. The herbs will soften slightly in the heat, releasing their oils into the sauce like they’ve been waiting for it.

Serve immediately while hot, with warm jasmine rice and lime wedges for squeezing.

Chilled Cucumber Noodles

Chilled Cucumber Noodles

This refreshing cold noodle recipe is the perfect antidote to summer heat. A base of cucumber broth is made by blending cucumbers, stirring in ice and seasoning simply with vinegar and sugar. Ripe tomatoes, sliced cucumbers and sweet onions add crunch. If you want to bring a bit more heft to the dish, add shredded rotisserie chicken or thinly sliced roasted turkey along with the noodles. Just make sure to slurp up the broth at the end.

Yield: 4 servings

1 whole English cucumber (about 1 pound), thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, smashed 

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

3 teaspoons sugar

Salt 

1 cup cold water

2 cups ice

½ medium sweet onion (about 4 ounces)

1 (9.5-ounce package) somen noodles (3 bunches)

2 ripe red tomatoes (about 1 pound), thinly sliced

½ cup fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced  

Olive oil, for drizzling

Take half of the cucumber slices, give them a rough chop and add them to the bowl of a blender, a food processor, or place in a medium mixing bowl if you are using an immersion blender. Add the garlic, white wine vinegar, sugar, 2 teaspoons salt and 1 cup cold water into the bowl with the sliced cucumbers and blend until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer the cucumber mixture to a large mixing bowl and stir in the ice until melted. Set the cucumber broth in the fridge while you prepare the onion and noodles. 

Thinly slice the onion and rinse the slices under cold water. Drain and set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles according to package directions, about 2 minutes. Drain the noodles and rinse with cold water, until the noodles are cold and feel a little bouncy in your hands. Shake as much water as you can out of the cooled noodles and divide them into four bowls. Divide the cucumber broth between the bowls and top each with sliced tomatoes, basil, onion and the remaining sliced cucumber. Give each bowl a healthy drizzle of olive oil and serve right away.

TIP: The cucumber broth is so good! Couldn't find somen noodles so I used vermicelli rice noodles instead. Threw some sliced jalapeno in top. Delicious and perfect for a hot day.

Very refreshing and flexible. Added tofu for protein. Subbed lemon basil for regular basil, giving a lighter, summery herb note. Topped with a smattering of freshly minced habanero chile. Next time, will try with fresh shrimp or scallops, Thai basil, Thai chiles, and sesame oil.

Also, I needed only 1/2c water. Suggest adding water slowly to avoid watered down flavor as some cukes have more “juice”. I removed the seeds and sliced with a mandoline.