When I was in high school, me and the Grove Street guys used to break into a Greek shop called the Mad Greek late at night and cook ourselves up a feast. The goat the shop used in the gyros was amazing, and I’ve liked the taste of goat and saffron and turmeric ever since. There is something very grounding about these flavors, and I put them in a stew here to make it that much more homey. I hope you and your crew can enjoy them and fill your party with smells that seem to stick to the walls.
SERVES 4 TO 6
MARINADE
3 dried chiles de árbol
1 dried California chile
¼ jalapeño pepper, charred
1 teaspoon kochukaru
1 Roma tomato, charred
3 cloves garlic, peeled
3 sprigs fresh cilantro
onion, charred
2 scallions, charred
¼ cup cubed mango
Juice of ½ lime
Juice of ¼ orange
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
Pinch of ground cumin
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
MEAT
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 pound goat meat, cut into chunks
RICE
2 cups jasmine rice, rinsed
¼ cup coconut milk
¼ cup fresh lime juice
5¼ cups water
Good pinch of saffron threads
Good pinch each of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon butter
Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a blender or food processor and puree. Coat the goat with the puree and marinate it in the fridge, covered, for 2 hours.
Heat a heavy pan or Dutch oven and drizzle in the oil, heating until it’s smoking lightly. Remove the goat from the marinade, reserving the marinade. Sear the goat on all sides, then pour in the marinade, adding enough water to cover the meat completely. Simmer everything until the meat is nice and tender, 1 to 2 hours.
HOW TO CHAR VEGETABLES
CHARRING VEGETABLES IS AN EASY WAY TO ADD SOME NICE, SMOKY FLAVOR TO YOUR DISH. PUT THE VEGGIE IN A DRY PAN OVER MEDIUM HEAT AND TURN IT A FEW TIMES UNTIL IT’S BLACK ON ALL SIDES. IF YOU HAVE A GAS STOVE, YOU CAN PUT THE VEGETABLE DIRECTLY OVER A LOW FLAME, TURNING IT PERIODICALLY UNTIL IT’S BLISTERED ON ALL SIDES.
When the goat is almost done, combine the rice, coconut milk, lime juice, water, saffron, salt, and pepper in a rice cooker or in a saucepan. Cook, covered, over low heat until all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is nice and fluffy, 20 to 30 minutes. Fold in the cilantro and butter.
Taste the goat stew and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Pour the goat stew over the rice and EAT SLOPPILY.
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