My mom’s bowls and bowls of stews were what put meat back on my bones after I lost everything. The soybean paste stew was especially comforting: there could be nothing easier, yet nothing more satisfying. Just add some paste to a stock, swirl, add veggies and tofu, boil it all, eat it all. It’ll make you rethink everything in your life.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 pound beef brisket, cut into small chunks
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon minced scallions
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon sliced jalapeño pepper, seeds and all
¼ cup sliced white or yellow onion
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 cups beef stock or anchovy stock
2 cups water
¾ cup Korean soybean paste (doenjang)
½ cup shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded
1 cup diced firm tofu
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, mix the brisket with the soy sauce, scallions, garlic, jalapeño, onion, and sesame oil.
Heat a large soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the vegetable oil and when it begins to smoke, add the brisket mixture. Cook the meat until it browns, about 4 minutes, and you can start to smell its deliciousness. At that point, add the stock and water, the soybean paste, stirring to dissolve it, and the shiitake mushrooms. Bring it all to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and let the mixture simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
Add the tofu and stir gently. Simmer for 20 minutes, then turn off the heat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a bowl of rice and some kimchi.
JUST ANOTHER EVERYDAY MEAL.
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