Braised Eggplant, Pork and Mushrooms

The honest, straightforward cuisine of the Hakkas, a nomadic people dispersed all over China, may be thought of as a country cousin of Cantonese. Dishes from the Hakka diaspora may not have the distinction or impact of those from Sichuan, but because they’re interpreted broadly (note the addition of ketchup in many versions of pork and pineapple in the United States), they’re fun, and they’re easy to cook. This simple recipe for braised eggplant with pork and mushrooms, adapted from "The Hakka Cookbook: Chinese Soul Food From Around the World" by the food writer Linda Lau Anusasananan, is one such dish. Be sure to use small Asian or globe eggplants as they're more likely to keep their color and shape, and if you like more sauce, double it up. Mark Bittman


INGREDIENTS
12 ounces Asian eggplant or globe eggplant
3 tablespoons Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing) or dry sherry
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon black vinegar orbalsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 to 8 ounces ground pork
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 dried small hot red chilies, sliced
3 ounces enoki mushrooms, trimmedof ends, rinsed and separated
⅓ cup chopped cilantro

Trim off the stem ends from the eggplant. If using Asian eggplant, slice into 2-inch lengths, and then cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick wedges. If using globe eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch cubes. In a small bowl, mix the wine, soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, pepper and 2/3 cup of water.

Place a wok or a large frying pan over high heat. When the pan is hot, after about 1 minute, add 1 tablespoon of the oil and rotate the pan to spread. Add the pork, and stir-fry until it has broken into small chunks and is lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-high. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil, garlic, chilies and eggplant; stir-fry until the eggplant begins to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. 3. Add the water mixture. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is soft when pressed, 7 to 9 minutes. Stir in the mushrooms, and remove from the heat. Transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with cilantro. Note: Slender Chinese or Japanese eggplants hold their shape better and are less seedy than larger, more common globe eggplants.