Quick Ragù With Ricotta and Lemon

Quick Ragù With Ricotta and Lemon

Meat ragù traditionally requires a long simmer over low heat, but this 45-minute version owes its slow-cooked flavor to a hefty dose of red-pepper or chile paste, which yields a complex, hearty sauce. (This recipe calls for sambal oelek, which is easy to find, but Calabrian chile or Hungarian paprika paste would work well, too.) Spoon the ragù over cooked, broken lasagna noodles and top it with a dollop of creamy ricotta, a sprinkle of toasted fennel and a few curls of lemon zest. This recipe uses beef, but you could also prepare it with spicy Italian sausage, or ground pork or turkey — though you may want to amplify the flavor by tossing in a little fennel seed and red-pepper flakes with the onion and garlic in Step 1.

Yield: 4 servings

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

Fine sea salt and black pepper

1 pound ground beef

2 heaping tablespoons sambal oelek (or any spicy red-pepper paste)

¼ cup full-bodied red wine, like cabernet or merlot

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, with their juices

8 ounces plain or whole-wheat lasagna noodles (not no-cook), broken in 1- to 2-inch pieces

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 cup fresh ricotta

1 lemon, zested

Flaky salt, like Maldon

In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat ¼ cup oil over medium. Add the onion and garlic, season with salt and cook until just beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and cook, breaking it apart with the edge of a spoon, until nicely browned but not completely cooked through, about 6 minutes. Stir in the sambal oelek. Add the wine and stir to release any brown bits from the bottom of the pot.

Add the tomatoes and their juices, crushing completely between your hands or with a potato masher. Cook over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to break down and the beef is cooked through, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper halfway through cooking.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Boil the broken lasagna noodles according to package directions until al dente.

In a small skillet, toast the fennel seeds over medium until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and crush on a cutting board with the flat end of a large knife or the bottom of a skillet.

Drain the pasta, add to the ragù and toss to coat. Divide among four bowls and dollop each generously with ricotta. Sprinkle with lemon zest, cracked fennel, flaky sea salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil as desired. Serve warm.

TIP: I thought it needed tomato paste for depth and sugar to counter the acidic pepper paste. Added them both towards the end and it came out great!

Portuguese Kale Soup

Portuguese Kale Soup 

In the summers in the 1970s when Anthony Bourdain worked in restaurants in Provincetown, Mass., the town’s Portuguese fishing community was robust. It has shrunk considerably since then, but many local restaurants still brew up cauldrons of Portuguese kale soup, thick with smoked linguiça sausage and its spicier cousin, chouriço. This version is adapted from a recipe in “Appetites: A Cookbook” (Ecco, 2016), by Mr. Bourdain and Laurie Woolever, which was itself adapted from one by Howard Mitcham, whose “Provincetown Seafood Cookbook” Mr. Bourdain called “a true classic, one of the most influential of my life.” 

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

1½ cups dried red kidney beans

8 cups water, divided

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large smoked ham hock 

3 to 4 quarts beef stock, preferably low sodium

1 pound linguiça sausage, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices (see Tip)

½ pound Portuguese chouriço sausage, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices (see Tip) 

2 bunches curly kale, tough stems removed and leaves washed and roughly chopped (8 to 10 cups)

4 large or 5 medium waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into a large dice

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Crushed red pepper

1. Add beans to a large, heavy-bottomed stock pot or Dutch oven with a lid. Cover beans with 4 cups water, add a large pinch of salt and bring to a rapid boil. Cover the pot and remove from the heat. Let beans sit, undisturbed, for 90 minutes until semi-plumped and slightly softened. Drain off cooking liquid. 

2. Add the ham hock, stock and 4 cups water to the pot with the drained beans. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 1 hour, using a slotted spoon to skim off and discard any scum that surfaces.

3. Add the linguiça, chouriço and kale and continue simmering for another hour. 
4. Add the potatoes, vinegar and a generous pinch of red pepper and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Simmer for at least another hour, adding stock or water as needed to keep all the elements submerged. The longer the soup simmers, the better the flavor becomes; aim for a minimum of 5 hours.

Tip: Chouriço and linguiça can be hard to find outside Portuguese neighborhoods. Cured Spanish chorizo and smoked kielbasa will yield similar results.

• 
  

Chaat Masala Corn

Chaat Masala Corn

Elotes — Mexican street corn — is the starting point for this dish, and chaat masala, a South Asian spice blend, is what takes it somewhere new. Chaat masala brings together salty, sour and funky in a way that does something very good to sweet, peak-season corn. Add more chaat masala to some salty crushed corn nuts and you have the most addictive sprinkle that adds a wonderful textural element. It’s good as a side to almost anything off the grill, or as a snack with good company and something cold to drink. Have napkins ready.

Yield: 6 servings

For the Crispy Corn Chaat

½ cup salted corn nuts

1½ teaspoons chaat masala (see Tip)

For the Corn

6 ears corn, husks removed

Fine sea salt

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 

2 teaspoons chaat masala (see Tip) 

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges to serve (from 1 lime)

1 tablespoon runny honey 

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro stems, divided, plus ¼ cup loosely-packed cilantro leaves 

⅔ cup sour cream

Make the crispy corn chaat: Using a mortar and pestle (or a small food processor), roughly crush the corn nuts and chaat masala together. 

On a steady cutting board using a sharp knife, carefully cut each ear of corn into 4 smaller cylinders (cut each ear of corn in half first, then cut each half in half once more). Fill a large pot with 1 inch of water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil on high heat. Add the corn and cook, covered, for 8 minutes, until tender but still crisp, then drain in a colander. 

Meanwhile, add the butter to a small frying pan over medium heat. Once the butter melts and starts to bubble, cook for about 5 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan regularly, until the butter is browned and smelling nutty. Remove from the heat and whisk in the chaat masala, turmeric and ½ teaspoon of salt. Stir in the lime juice, honey and 1½ tablespoons cilantro stems. 

Mix the sour cream together with a pinch of salt and spread two-thirds of it onto a serving platter and pile the corn on top. Dollop over the remaining sour cream, then spoon over the chaat masala butter. Scatter over the remaining cilantro stems and the cilantro leaves, followed by a small handful of the crispy corn chaat. 

Serve with lime wedges and more of the crispy corn chaat for dipping and dunking the corn into as you eat.

Tip: Chaat masala is widely available in Indian markets and online. If you can't find it, use the same amount of curry powder with a pinch of extra salt and ½ teaspoon sumac (this will add that missing tartness).

Chamoy Tomato Salad

Chamoy Tomato Salad

In this salad, the classic duo of peak-season tomatoes and summer’s finest stone fruit gets a lively jolt from tamarind. When combined with the juices of salted tomatoes, juicy nectarines, and plums, the tamarind creates a bright dressing that has all the sweet-sour flavors of chamoy, one of Mexico's favorite condiments. Look for tamarind concentrate or paste in the international aisle of well-stocked grocery stores or at Middle Eastern or Asian markets; you won't regret having it on hand for a spicy red lentil soup or a lip-smacking sauce for baby back ribs. Tamarind is key, but if necessary, you can also use an equal amount of lime juice. The salad’s tang is balanced by toasted sesame seeds, crushed tortilla chips and fresh mint. Feel free to tear in basil, parsley, or any other tender herbs you have on hand just before serving. It makes an ideal side for a summery meal — especially with grilled fish or meat.

Yield: 6 servings

3 to 4 medium heirloom tomatoes (about 1½ pounds), cut into 1-inch wedges

2 medium nectarines (about 14 ounces), halved and cut into ½-inch wedges

2 medium plums (about 6 ounces), halved and cut into ½-inch wedges

Kosher salt 

3 tablespoons tamarind concentrate or paste, or 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, divided

1 chipotle chile in adobo, finely chopped, plus ½ teaspoon adobo sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

½ small red onion, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 

¼ cup toasted white sesame seeds

¼ cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves or other soft herbs, torn into pieces

A handful of tortilla chips, for serving

In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, nectarines and plums. Toss with ¾ teaspoon salt.

Make the dressing: In a large serving bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons tamarind paste, the chopped chipotle and adobo sauce, sugar and ¼ teaspoon salt to form a smooth paste. Add the red onion along with the reserved tomatoes, nectarines, plums and gently toss to coat. Taste and season with salt and pepper. 

Transfer salad to a large serving bowl or shallow platter. Drizzle with sesame oil and the remaining 1 tablespoon tamarind, then top with toasted sesame seeds and mint. Crush the tortilla chips into small pieces and scatter them over the salad. Serve immediately.

Miso Mushroom and Leek Pasta

Miso Mushroom and Leek Pasta

Alchemy is at play here with the delightful union of miso and sherry vinegar, both working to amplify mushroom’s savory, umami notes, and create a rich, layered pasta in just over 30 minutes. Sautéed leeks and mushrooms form the core flavors of the pasta, but it is the addition of miso that completes the dish: Whisked with the starchy pasta water and grated Parmesan, it forms a quick sauce to coat the noodles. A farro, spelt or whole-wheat pasta would nicely complement the earthy flavors of this dish.

Yield: 4 servings

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

2 medium leeks, trimmed, white and light green parts thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

1 ½ pounds mushrooms (such as cremini, shiitake and/or oyster mushrooms), stemmed and sliced

1 pound short pasta, such as ziti or cavatappi

2 tablespoons white miso

¾ cup grated Parmesan, plus more for garnishing

1 tablespoon sherry or red wine vinegar, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves and tender stems

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a Dutch oven or deep 12-inch skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Add the leeks, season with salt and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. If they look dry at any point, add a drizzle of oil.

Add the mushrooms to the leeks, season lightly with salt, and cook, stirring every 2 minutes, until the mushrooms have browned, about 10 minutes. (If they are done before the pasta, then adjust the heat to low.)

When the water is ready, add the pasta and cook until al dente. Halfway through the cooking process, reserve 1 cup of water and let cool slightly on the counter. Drain the pasta in a colander and drizzle with olive oil if done before the mushrooms.

When both the mushrooms and pasta are done, stir the miso into the reserved pasta water until mostly dissolved. Add it to the Dutch oven or skillet over medium-high heat along with the pasta, cheese and vinegar, stirring vigorously until a cheesy sauce forms and coats the noodles, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and season to taste with more vinegar if needed.

Garnish with the parsley and more cheese; serve with a final drizzle of oil.

TIP: If you want dryer, crisper, crustier mushrooms without the wateriness, the general instruction these days is to cook them first--no salt!--until after they're cooked to your preferred shade of brown. See Ali Slagle's recipe for Sautéed Mushrooms on this website.

Really yummy dish and so easy to make. You could add more mushrooms than the recipe calls for because they cook down so much. Also, I added baby spinach at the end for more fiber. Chicken would also be a great add. Will definitely make again!

Golden Tofu Noodle Bowl

Golden Tofu Noodle Bowl

Fresh and brimming with crisp textures, this Vietnamese-style rice noodle bowl is inspired by bún chả, the pork and vermicelli dish from Hanoi. This vegan version offers golden cubes of turmeric-coated tofu, served with crunchy raw vegetables and a zesty dipping sauce. The sauce is a vegan take on the Vietnamese staple nước chấm sauce, relying upon lime, maple syrup, soy sauce and garlic to replicate the complex umami and signature sour-sweet-spicy notes of the original. Serve with the sauce on the side, so each person can dress the salad to their liking. Don’t skimp on the herbs, as they add an essential herbal aroma to the dish.

Yield: 4 servings

For the Salad

Salt and black pepper

8 ounces rice vermicelli noodles

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 teaspoon ground turmeric 

1 (15-ounce) block extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into 1-inch cubes

2 medium carrots (about 5 ounces), coarsely grated

2 Persian cucumbers, cut diagonally into ¼-inch slices 

½ head (about 6 ounces) romaine lettuce, thinly sliced

⅓ cup roasted peanuts, roughly chopped 

1 handful fresh basil leaves, for serving

1 handful fresh cilantro leaves, for serving

For the Vegan Nước Chấm

½ cup lime juice (from about 4 limes)

5 tablespoons maple syrup or brown sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

1 garlic clove, finely grated

1 Thai red chile, finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

Start the salad: Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the rice noodles and cook according to package instructions until tender, using a wooden chopstick or tongs to gently separate the noodles. Drain, refresh under cold water, and drain again. 

Meanwhile, add the olive oil, turmeric, 1 teaspoon salt and a big pinch of black pepper to a medium bowl and stir to combine. Add the tofu and toss gently to coat.

Heat a medium skillet on medium high for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tofu cubes and cook until golden all over, about 2 minutes per side (depending upon the size of your pan, you may need to cook in batches). 

Make the vegan nước chấm: Place the lime juice, maple syrup, soy sauce, garlic, Thai chile and salt into a bowl and whisk to combine. 

Drizzle 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the noodles, season with a pinch of salt and toss them to loosen them up. Divide the noodles among four wide bowls or rimmed dinner plates. Nestle bundles of the tofu, carrots, cucumbers and lettuce on top, along with small handfuls of peanuts, basil and cilantro. Serve with a bowl of the nước chấm on the side.

Tip: The noodle bowls and the sauce can all be prepared 24 hours ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to serve. Since the sauce is not added until the time of eating, everything stays fresh and crisp. 

Delicious!! Made exactly as written, minus the lettuce. Make sure the tofu is well drained; if easier, you could probably just crumble a block up and the craggy chunks would absorb the turmeric flavor and get wonderfully crispy. I put the drained pasta directly back into the bowl I'd used to mix the tofu and turmeric; there was just enough oil left to keep it from sticking and impart some flavor. The sauce was great, definitely use fresh limes or good quality lime juice. Will make again!!

Spicy Cucumbers With Mint, Scallions and Crushed Peanuts

Spicy Cucumbers With Mint, Scallions and Crushed Peanuts 

This fine accompaniment to any number of dishes is an (admittedly inauthentic) take on a Southeast Asian favorite, moderately spicy in Vietnam and far more fiery in Thailand. Choose chiles accordingly to match your preference: Thai chiles pack a lot of heat; serrano chiles are strong, but less so; red Fresno chiles have sweet undertones and are the mildest. Also, try to get the best cucumbers you can, with thin skins. The better the cucumber, the better the salad. 

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 

1 tablespoon palm sugar or dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 teaspoons fish sauce

2 small Thai chiles (not bird’s-eye), very thinly sliced, or substitute 1 serrano chile

1 Fresno chile, thinly sliced crosswise

1 pound cucumber, preferably Persian, sliced ¼ inch thick

3 or 4 scallions, both white and green parts, thinly sliced on a long bias

Salt

¼ cup fresh mint leaves, some whole, some torn

¼ cup small basil leaves (preferably Thai or cinnamon basil)

2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro

⅓ cup salted peanuts, crushed using a rolling pin or mortar

Make the dressing: Put lime juice and sugar in a small bowl. Stir to combine, allowing sugar to dissolve. Stir in sesame oil and fish sauce. Add the Thai and Fresno chiles. Set aside.

Put cucumbers and scallions in a serving bowl. Sprinkle very lightly with salt and toss. Add the dressing and toss well to coat. Refrigerate to chill, about 30 minutes.

Top with mint, basil and cilantro. Sprinkle with crushed peanuts.

TIP: Delicious fresh salad. Don’t skimp on the herbs and used a Fresno chili which was perfect for my palate and my guests. I used have in the dressing and half sliced thinly with the cucumbers. The herbs are essential for the salad. I added a splash of rice wine vinegar to the dressing because it needed a bit more acid for me. Also added some toasted sesame seeds to the salad because - well I just liked the look of them. My guests loved the salad. This is a keeper.

Ginger Scallion Chicken and Rice

Ginger Scallion Chicken and Rice

Hainanese chicken rice, most likely originating from the island of Hainan off the coast of southern China, is a beloved dish of silky poached whole chicken and gingery rice cooked with the bird’s cooking broth and rendered fat. This streamlined version of the traditional dish simmers the two together in a single pot to make it a meal fast enough for weeknights. With endless variations throughout the world, most notably in Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysia, one constant is dipping sauces for the meat. There’s often three: ginger-scallion or ginger-garlic sauce, sweetened dark soy and red chile sauce. Here, hot oil is poured over minced ginger and scallions to create an aromatic blend that brings a warming edge to the comforting rice and meat. The slick of oil that remains is used to quickly stir-fry vegetables to turn this into a complete meal. Any leftover sauce is great over fish, tofu, eggs and noodles.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1 (3-inch) piece fresh ginger (2 ounces), scrubbed well

2 ¾ pounds chicken drumsticks or bone-in thighs, or a combination

Salt

2 cups jasmine rice

1 bunch scallions

½ cup canola or other neutral-flavored oil, such as grapeseed or sunflower

12 ounces sturdy leafy greens, such as bok choy, napa cabbage and kale

½ teaspoon rice or sherry vinegar (optional)

Trim the ends and sides with knobby rounds off the ginger. Put the ginger trimmings in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot, along with the chicken. Add 3 cups cold water and a big pinch of salt, then bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a steady simmer, and simmer, turning the pieces once, for 15 minutes.

While the chicken cooks, prepare the remaining ingredients: Rinse the rice in a sieve until the water runs clear and let drain. Very finely chop the trimmed ginger. Trim and finely chop the scallions. Combine the ginger and scallion in a heatproof bowl, sprinkle generously with salt and reserve.

Once the chicken has simmered for 15 minutes, taste the broth and add enough salt to make it really savory. Stir the rice into the pot. Use tongs to arrange the chicken pieces skin side up over the grains. Raise the heat to high to bring the water to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes, then turn off the heat and let rest for 5 minutes.

While the rice rests, heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over high until shimmering, 1 to 2 minutes. Carefully pour the hot oil over the ginger and scallions, leaving a sheen of oil in the pan.

Return the wok to the high heat, and add the greens and a big pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until the greens are brighter in color and just tender. Add a splash of water to the pan if the greens are a bit dry.

Stir the vinegar into the ginger-scallion sauce. Taste and add more salt if you’d like. Serve with the chicken rice and stir-fried greens. (Pick out the ginger trimmings from the rice while eating.)

Sesame Soy Chicken With Ginger-Scallion Noodles

Sesame Soy Chicken With Ginger-Scallion Noodles

Every time I return to my native Hong Kong, I visit one of the city’s famed cha chaan teng, the noisy diners known for cheap, satisfying meals and brusque service. I once had a dish there that I’ve been making at home ever since: Instant ramen tossed in ginger-scallion sauce, topped with a pan-fried chicken cutlet and a fried egg. The yolk broke and ran over everything, mixing with the oil until the two became a rich and savory coating. The ginger-scallion sauce is the engine here — make it once and it keeps all week, improving poached chicken, pork chops and even a bowl of plain rice.

Yield: 4 servings

For the chicken and noodles

4 boneless skinless chicken thighs (or deboned skin-on thighs)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more for seasoning

½ teaspoon white or black pepper, plus more for seasoning

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or dry sherry (optional)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

4 instant ramen bricks

4 eggs

Chile oil or chile crisp (optional)

For the ginger-scallion sauce

6 medium scallions sliced, white and green parts

2 ounces ginger, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal (If not using fish sauce, use 1 ½ teaspoons salt.)

½ teaspoon sugar

½ cup vegetable oil 

½ teaspoon fish sauce (optional)

At least 2 hours before serving, cut a number of slits into the chicken thighs without piercing them completely (if using deboned skin-on chicken, cut slits on the meaty underside of the thighs). Place thighs in a bowl, and add soy sauce, sugar, salt and pepper, minced garlic, toasted sesame oil and Shaoxing wine if using. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to marinate in the fridge.

Make the ginger-scallion sauce: In a small heat-safe bowl, combine scallions, ginger,salt and sugar. Mix thoroughly to release some of the liquid. Let sit for at least 5 minutes. 

Add the oil to a small saucepan and heat until it reads 325 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Carefully pour the hot oil into ginger-scallion mixture. The mixture will immediately sizzle. Add fish sauce if using, stir, and let cool. (Sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one week.) 

When ready to eat, bring a large pot of water to boil. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to a large (12-inch) nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Sear chicken thighs until beautifully brown, about 5 minutes on each side. When the chicken is cooked (it should register at least 165 degrees Fahrenheit with an instant-read thermometer), remove from heat onto a plate.

Cook the ramen bricks in the pot of boiling water according to package directions. Divide cooked noodles among four bowls, and spoon a generous tablespoon of ginger-scallion sauce and its flavored oil onto the noodles, tossing to combine. Slice each thigh into strips and lay over each bowl of noodles. Spoon more ginger-scallion sauce onto the chicken.

In the same pan you used to cook the chicken, add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the drippings and fry four eggs sunny-side up. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Drape one fried egg each over each bowl and add chili oil or chili crisp if desired. Break the yolk over noodles, chicken, and sauce. 

Tip: Here’s one idea for using up leftover ramen seasoning packets from Lucky Peach magazine: Add it to sour cream to make a potato chip dip.

It's Kevin Pang, the recipe developer here. The standard chili crisp for Chinese families is the brand Lao Gan Ma, which you can find online or from an Asian grocer. I've also found ones from Fly By Jing and Momofuku to be quite good (those can be found at Whole Foods).

5 stars for this ginger-scallion sauce alone. Seems like a crazy amount of ginger when you're chopping it, but use the full amount and DON'T skip the fish sauce. Added sautéed cabbage, carrot, and red pepper to the noodles, and swapped ground turkey for the chicken (it was what I had in the freezer, but will definitely be making it again with the chicken in the future).

Pesto Tuna Salad

Pesto Tuna Salad

Garlicky pesto lends big flavor to this creamy tuna salad while keeping the ingredients to a minimum. And while most tuna salads rely on mayo, this one calls upon tangy Greek yogurt, which also helps double down on the protein. A big squeeze of lemon juice ties it together while a handful of diced shallot delivers crunch. It’s as quick as it is versatile: Tuck it inside a sandwich or wrap, spoon it on top of salad greens, scoop it up with crackers or crostini or serve it alongside juicy tomato slices.

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

1 medium shallot or ½ small red onion, finely diced 

3 (5- to 7-ounce) cans or jars tuna (preferably oil-packed), well drained

⅓ cup basil pesto, store-bought or homemade

⅓ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Salt and black pepper

Put the shallot in a small fine mesh strainer and rinse under cool water for 10 seconds to make it less potent. Drain well then transfer to a large bowl.

Add the tuna, pesto, yogurt and lemon juice. Stir well with a fork to break up the tuna and combine. Season with salt and pepper. The tuna salad can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

TIP: I made this for lunch for two people. Used only one can of Genoa brand tuna from Costco, one tbsp Costco pesto, 2 tbsps full fat Greek yogurt and the juice of half large lemon. I added 5 chopped Kalamata olives because I'm Greek and Greek tweak most NYTimes excellent recipes. It was divine and greatly appreciated in this heat!!!!

I made it as written but omitted the lemon juice because I didn't have a lemon (how did that happen!). Delicious! We found the flavors quite subtle. Can't wait to have the leftovers tomorrow!

Mangonada

Mangonada

When the summer sun screams across Mexico’s city streets and sandy beaches, mangonadas come to the rescue. Also called chamangos, they can be made with any combination of mango sorbet, chopped fresh mango or mango purée, and may or may not be spiked, but they’ll always contain the salty, spicy and tangy flavors of Tajín and chamoy. Tajín, a chile-lime salt, is a delicious addition to sweet and savory foods alike. Its sister condiment, chamoy, is traditionally made from fermented fruit, salt, sugar and chiles. Depending on your location, you can find Tajín, chamoy and tamarind straws — their sour, chewy coating adds an extra tickle of tartness — at supermarkets or Latin American grocers; all three are available online.

Yield: 4 servings

5 large ripe mangoes (about 15 ounces each), peeled, pitted and cut into ½-inch pieces (about 8 cups), or 2 ½ pounds frozen mango, defrosted

¼ cup granulated sugar, or to taste

¼ cup fresh lime juice (from 2 fresh limes)

1 ½ cups cold water, or as needed

¾ cup silver tequila or rum (optional)

¾ to 1 cup chamoy

Tajín, to taste

4 tamarind candy straws (optional)

Place 5 cups mango in a blender, reserving the remaining mango. Add the sugar, lime juice and ¾ cup cold water to the blender, and blend on medium-high speed until puréed. Blend in tequila or rum, if using. Blend in additional water, adding ¼ cup at a time, until mango mixture reaches the desired consistency.

Chill mango mixture, covered, in refrigerator until ready to serve. For a colder mangonada, transfer mixture to the freezer until it reaches the consistency of a slushy.

To serve, pour or scoop about ½ cup of mango mixture into each of four 16-ounce glasses. Add about ⅓ cup reserved mango to each glass, followed by 1 ½ to 2 tablespoons chamoy and a generous sprinkle of Tajín. Repeat with the remaining mango mixture, mango pieces, chamoy and a final sprinkling of Tajín on top. Garnish each glass with a tamarind candy straw, if using, and a spoon. Serve immediately.

TIP: If looking for an easy Chamoy recipe, I found this one from Rick Bayless:

1 cup of apricot jam (or mango jam)

1/4 cup of fresh lime juice

2 teaspoons ancho chile powder

1/2 teaspoon of salt

Simply put all the ingredients into a blender and puree until smooth. For a spicier sauce just add more chile powder.

Strawberry Spoon Cake

Strawberry Spoon Cake

This unfussy cake with a top layer of jammy strawberries is so gooey it’s best to serve the whole thing with a spoon. The batter comes together quickly with minimal effort, using basic pantry ingredients and a small handful of berries — frozen or fresh. If you’re using frozen, be sure to defrost them in the microwave first. Extract as much juice as possible from the fruit by macerating and mashing it, so that it lends the cake additional moisture while baking. Add a dash of freshly ground cardamom or ground ginger on top before baking it off, if you like, or some ribbons of fresh basil once it’s hot out of the oven. Whatever embellishments you decide on, burrowing warm spoonfuls of this cake beside scoops of vanilla ice cream is the most important thing.

Yield: 4 servings

½ cup/115 grams unsalted butter (1 stick), melted, plus more for greasing

5 ounces/145 grams frozen and thawed or fresh, hulled strawberries (about 1 cup)

⅔ cup/150 grams packed light brown sugar

½ cup/120 milliliters whole milk, at room temperature

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup/130 grams all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Vanilla ice cream, for serving

Heat oven to 350 degrees and grease an 8-inch (square or round) baking dish with butter. Set aside.

Using your hands or the back of a fork, mash the berries to release all their juices, and stir in ⅓ cup of the brown sugar. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the melted butter, remaining ⅓ cup brown sugar, milk and salt, then add the flour and baking powder and continue whisking just until the batter is smooth. Transfer the batter (it’s not much) to the greased baking dish, and spread evenly into corners.

Spoon the strawberries and all their juices over the top of the cake batter. Place in the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or just when a toothpick comes out clean in the center. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 3 to 5 minutes before spooning into bowls. Serve warm with ice cream.

TIP: This is a riff on an old fashioned recipe called “Essies Cobbler”. I recommend melting the butter in the pan while the oven is preheating (leaving a bit in the pan and putting the batter in the hot pan create a lovely chewy crust) and also increasing the amount of fruit which can be any juicy fruit - peaches, blueberries, etc.

I browned the butter. Misread the recipe and heated oven only to 325. After 20 minutes discovered the error. Increased temp to 350 and baked for 15 mins more. Absolutely fabulous! The strawberries were caramelized, and the cake had a beautiful color and texture. I will never use Julia’s clafoutis recipe again, and I intend to make my temp/timing mistake each time I bake this. Plus browning the butter added so much umami. Almost as good the next morning at room temp with coffee. A real keeper.

My family inhaled this in one sitting! We used Bob’s Red Mill 1:1 gluten-free flour and fresh-picked strawberries. Served it warm with strawberry ice cream (made from scratch also with our garden berries). What a summer treat!

This is the first time I felt the need to add a comment after several years of happily trying NYT recipes. Expected this to be a little heavy and wet but it is the airiest cake - and also moist! Needless to say this came out great. Followed the recipe with some extras - grated fresh young ginger roots to the strawberry-sugar mix, zested lemons and added 1/4 teaspoon of vanilla bean paste into the wet ingredients before adding the dry ingredients. Am in Bangkok. Will use ripe mangoes next time.

I’ve made versions of this recipe before; it’s basically a clafouti, a French cake. The first version I made years ago was from a Jane Brody cookbook. Any fruit is good in it. I’ve used blueberries, tart cherries, peaches and strawberries, solo or mixed together.

Blueberry Spoon Cake

Blueberry Spoon Cake

This recipe for a simple summer spoon cake draws the juices out of blueberries then pours them on top of a gluten-free cornmeal batter. As the cake bakes, some blueberries sink and form a stewy bottom, others bubble into chewy jam. The result looks like an upside down cobbler, or a muffin without its middle. It isn’t too sweet, and what it lacks in slice-ability and portability, it makes up for with tenderness and juiciness. Make sure to bake it on a tray to catch any batter or berries that rise over the rim — these are the cook’s midbake treat.

Yield: One 9-inch cake (6 to 8 servings)

4 tablespoons/58 grams unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the dish

14 ounces/397 grams fresh blueberries (about 2½ cups)

¾ cup/150 grams granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

Zest and juice of ½ lemon (about 1 tablespoon juice)

1 large egg

½ cup/113 grams sour cream, plus more for serving

½ cup/76 grams yellow cornmeal (preferably fine grind)

¾ cup/63 grams almond meal

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or ½ teaspoon fine salt

Vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional)

Heat the oven to 350 degrees and grease a 9-inch glass pie dish.

Put the blueberries, ¼ cup/50 grams sugar and the lemon zest and juice in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over low heat, stirring here and there for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the sugar has dissolved and the berries are glossy. Turn off the heat and set aside.

In a medium bowl, cream the butter and remaining ½ cup/100 grams sugar together until the mixture is pale and fluffy. Add the egg and stir to incorporate fully before adding the sour cream. Stir to combine and set aside.

In another medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, almond meal, baking powder and salt, and whisk. Make a well in the center and pour in the wet ingredients. Whisk to form a smooth batter, then pour into the greased pie dish, leveling the batter with a spatula or the back of a spoon.

Spoon over the blueberries with their juices somewhat evenly distributing them and leaving some batter uncovered. Sprinkle with sugar to evenly cover the surface. Set the pie plate on a baking sheet to catch drips.

Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the cake has taken on a deep nutty color around its edge, and a blueberry-less area of sponge springs back when you press with a finger. The jammy areas will feel underbaked and that is good.

Leave to cool a little before serving warm with sour cream or vanilla ice cream, or both.

Smoky Tea Eggs

Melissa's Smoky Tea Eggs

One of my favorite after-school snacks were the marinated boiled eggs I used to sneak from my Cantonese grandma Sabrina PoPo’s fridge. I boil mine just until the yolks are soft and jammy, then soak them in a sweet brine infused with warm spices like ginger and star anise and lapsang souchong tea, an earthy black tea dried over pinewood fire that gives the eggs a smoky flavor.

Twenty-four hours in the brine is the sweet spot, but if you’re anything like me, I bet you’ll eat them all before then. They’re great on their own, but they’re also delicious in ramen or jook and over steamed rice along with Char Siu Black Cod or Grilled Lemongrass–Soy Sauce Chicken Thighs.

Ingredients

1 ½ cups Chinese light soy sauce

1 cup Chinese rock sugar or lightly packed light brown sugar

1 cup water

½ cup Chinese dark soy sauce

½ cup mirin

½ cup unseasoned rice vinegar

2 tablespoons lapsang souchong tea leaves

4 by 1-inch knob ginger, lightly smashed

4 whole dried Sichuan chiles (optional)

4 whole star anise

2 bay leaves

2 Wild Cinnamon Quills

¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

 ½ teaspoon red Sichuan peppercorns

12 large eggs

In a medium pot, combine all the ingredients except the eggs. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of the sugar has dissolved, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool to room temperature, at least 1 hour.

While the brine cools, in a covered 4- to 6-quart pot, bring 8 cups water to a full boil over high heat. Prepare a big bowl with half ice and half water.

Carefully but quickly lower the eggs (using a spider strainer helps) into the boiling water. Let the water return to a full boil, uncovered, then adjust the heat to cook at a steady simmer for 5 minutes (set a timer). When the timer goes off, turn off the heat and gently transfer the eggs to the ice water. Let them chill for at least 30 minutes. Remove the eggs, peel carefully, and rinse off any remaining bits of shell.

Put the eggs in one or more containers, then pour in the cooled brine to completely submerge the eggs. (They’ll float in the brine, so either use a small weight to keep them submerged or rotate the eggs halfway through.) Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 48 hours (to me, 24 hours is the sweet spot).

After brining, you can drain the eggs (reserving the brine in the fridge for one more round) and store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 more days.

Heirloom Tomatoes With Fish Sauce Vinaigrette

Heirloom Tomatoes With Fish Sauce Vinaigrette

The chef Melissa King captures the scent and flavor of ripe summer tomatoes in this savory dish inspired by a green papaya salad she learned to cook in Thailand and the Vietnamese nuoc cham she grew up with in the San Gabriel Valley of Southern California. Adapted from a recipe in her book, “Cook Like a King: Recipes From My California Chinese Kitchen” (Ten Speed Press, 2025), this juicy salad, crunchy with peanuts and fried shallots, can be turned into a more filling meal with the addition of cooked and cooled rice noodles. Ms. King suggests tossing everything with olive oil-fried bread crumbs for a sort-of panzanella. She also recommends adding very thinly sliced fresh makrut lime leaves for their aroma if you can find them.

Yield: 4 servings

For the fish sauce vinaigrette

2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot

¼ cup fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons sugar or honey

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and finely ground black pepper

1 to 2 fresh Thai chiles (optional), thinly sliced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the salad

2 pounds ripe heirloom tomatoes, cored and cut into pretty pieces

Handful of mint or shiso leaves, finely chopped

Handful of cilantro leaves and tender stems or Thai basil leaves, finely chopped

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling

¼ cup unsalted roasted peanuts, chopped

¼ cup fried shallots, homemade or store-bought

Make the vinaigrette: In a large bowl, combine the garlic and shallot with the lime juice and let sit for 2 minutes to tame their sharpness. Stir in the fish sauce, sugar, salt, a few turns of pepper and the chiles (if using). Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking constantly, until emulsified. (The vinaigrette will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)

Make the salad: Add the tomatoes, mint and cilantro to the vinaigrette bowl. Season with a generous pinch of kosher salt and a few turns of pepper, and toss gently but well.

Arrange the tomatoes in a large, shallow bowl in an even layer and pour the vinaigrette over them. Generously drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with a little flaky salt. Sprinkle on the peanuts and shallots, and serve immediately.

TIP: Exceeded all expectations. The fish sauce melts away into the lime in the most lovely, salty, perfect tomato juice dressing. We added a cucumber for extra crunch and ate the whole salad straight from the bowl leaning on the counter in the kitchen. It was that good!

Charred Corn and Pickled Jalapeño Potato Salad

Charred Corn and Pickled Jalapeño Potato Salad

This creamy five-ingredient potato salad features two surprise ingredients: pickled jalapeños, which lend heat and acidity, and blistered corn, which adds sweet and smoky notes. Rather than the usual cookie-cutter cubes of boiled potatoes, chunks of potato are simmered until they are so soft that they break up a little bit when combined with the remaining ingredients, adding extra creaminess to the traditional side. Rubbing mayonnaise on the corn before blistering it in a hot cast-iron skillet helps keep the kernels moist and also seasons them. Pickled jalapeños provide verve, but they vary in acidity and spice, so adjust the seasoning until this salad tastes just right to you.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed and quartered

Salt

3 ears of corn, husks and silks removed

1 tablespoon plus ⅓ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup sliced pickled jalapeños, finely chopped, plus 2 to 3 tablespoons brine and a few coarsely chopped pieces for garnish

2 garlic cloves, finely grated

Place the potatoes in a medium pot, cover with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Season the water generously with salt and simmer the potatoes until soft and tender, 15 to 17 minutes. Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot to dry over low heat for about 1 minute. Transfer the potatoes into a large bowl.

While the potatoes are cooking, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Rub the ears of corn with 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise, covering all of the kernels. Add the corn to the hot skillet and cook, turning frequently, until charred and blistered all over, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the corn to a cutting board to cool slightly. 

Carefully cut the blistered kernels off of the cobs and transfer them to the bowl with the potatoes. Add the pickled jalapeños, pickle brine, garlic and the remaining ⅓ cup mayonnaise and mix thoroughly, allowing some of the tender potatoes to become fully mashed while you mix. (This is great for the texture of the potato salad and makes it creamier.) Season to taste with salt.

The potato salad can be served while it’s still warm, room temperature or chilled. (To store, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days.)

TIP: This works really well with the Sweet Hot Jalepeños from Trader Joe’s. The sweetness adds another dimension.

I cheated and used 1.5 cups of frozen fire roasted corn instead of dealing with whole ears. I tossed it in a skillet with the mayo until it was warmed through and smoking a bit. Followed the rest of the recipe, added a bit more mayo and brine. Excellent- can’t wait to make it again!

This was excellent. We swapped ~half the mayo for greek yogurt because we had it on hand, and doubled the amount of pickled jalepeños. Next time, I will do the same, and also cut the potatoes into even smaller (more bite-sized) pieces.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Chocolate Chip Cookies

You may have memorized the foolproof gem on the back of the Toll House bag, given to the world by Ruth Graves Wakefield in the 1930s. But this may become your new favorite chocolate chip cookie recipe. It’s a little more complicated, and you’ll have to plan ahead: After assembling the dough, you must chill it for at least 24 hours before baking it, and preferably up to 36. This allows the dry ingredients time to soak up the wet ones, which results in a firmer dough. It leads to a marvelously chewy, chocolate-rich cookie. Don’t skimp on good chocolate, and the sea salt is not an option — it’s the beacon at the top of this gorgeous treat. (You can certainly put this recipe together by hand, but a stand mixer makes it easy work. If you’re in the market for one, our colleagues at The Wirecutter have tested quite a few, and they've put together an excellent guide to the best.) 

Yield: 1½ dozen 5-inch cookies

2 cups minus 2 tablespoons cake flour (8 ½ ounces)

1 ⅔ cups bread flour (8 ½ ounces)

1 ¼ teaspoons baking soda

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

1 ½ teaspoons coarse sea salt, plus more for sprinkling

1 ¼ cups unsalted butter (2 ½ sticks)

1 ¼ cups light brown sugar (10 ounces)

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar (8 ounces)

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract

1 ¼ pounds bittersweet chocolate disks or fèves, at least 60 percent cacao content (see note)

Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Drop chocolate pieces in and incorporate them without breaking them. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Dough may be used in batches, and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat. Set aside.

Scoop 6 3 ½-ounce mounds of dough (the size of generous golf balls) onto baking sheet, making sure to turn horizontally any chocolate pieces that are poking up; it will make for a more attractive cookie. Sprinkle lightly with salt and bake until golden brown but still soft, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with remaining dough, or reserve dough, refrigerated, for baking remaining batches the next day. Eat warm, with a big napkin.

Tip: Disks are sold at Jacques Torres Chocolate; Valrhona fèves, oval-shaped chocolate pieces, are at Whole Foods.

I think this recipe is unnecessarily fussy. The difference between the two kinds of flours is their protein content -- bread flour has 12.7% (per King Arthur Flour's website), cake flour has 9.4%, and all-purpose flour has 11.7%. The amounts of flour called for in the recipe are equal by weight, so the protein content of the combined bread and cake flours is 11.05%, which is practically the same as all-purpose flour. So I just used plain, old AP flour and the cookies turned out fine.

I learned a trick from Cooks Illustrsted that I have used for several recipes, including CC cookies. Use cold butter. Place about 2/3 of butter in a skillet, melt and then lightly brown the butter. Pour browned butter over cold butter in mixing bowl and mix until cold butter is melted. Mix in sugars (1/2 Lt brown and 1/2 Dk brown), salt, eggs and vanilla. Mix thoroughly, then allow to sit for 3 minutes. Mix 30 seconds, then repeat twice. Then continue with recipe. Sugars develop beautifully!

Metric Measurements

241 grams / cake flour

241 grams / bread flour

1 ¼ teaspoons baking soda

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

1 ½ teaspoons coarse salt

284 grams / unsalted butter

284 grams / light brown sugar

227 grams / granulated sugar

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract

680 grams / bittersweet chocolate disks (at least 60%)

Sea salt

Spicy Roasted Tomato Soup

Spicy Roasted Tomato Soup

In this twist on classic tomato soup, Calabrian chiles turn up the heat and the oven does most of the  heavy lifting in creating a flavorful base. Roasting fresh tomatoes concentrates their natural flavors, which makes the method  an excellent way to use up any forgotten, bruised or out of season tomatoes. Oil-packed chiles add complex flavor and zippy spice,while a splash of heavy cream lends body and balances the heat. If you’re sensitive to spice, start with a smaller amount of chiles as you can always add more when blending or as a garnish. Each spoonful should warm (but not burn) the back of your throat, then settle before the next bite.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds medium to large tomatoes, cut into eighths

1 medium yellow onion (about 7 ounces), cut into 1-inch chunks

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 

1 to 2 whole oil-packed Calabrian chiles (stems removed), plus 1 teaspoon of the oil (or ½ to 1 tablespoon chopped Calabrian chiles in oil), plus more for serving (see Tip)

3 tablespoons tomato paste 

5 teaspoons olive oil 

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper 

½ teaspoon dried basil

1 quart (4 cups) low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth 

½ teaspoon sugar (see Tip) 

3 tablespoons heavy cream, plus more for serving

In a large Dutch oven or oven-safe, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the tomatoes, onion, garlic, Calabrian chiles and oil, tomato paste, olive oil, 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper and dried basil. Toss until the vegetables are evenly coated with the oil and tomato paste. 

Place the pot in the oven, uncovered, and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Roast until the tomatoes are soft and the juices have been released and start to bubble and thicken around the sides of the pot, 25 to 30 minutes total (including the oven heating), stirring halfway through. 

Transfer the pot to a burner over high heat and stir in the broth and sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until a fork easily pierces the vegetables, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cream. 

Use a blender (working in batches as needed) or immersion blender to blend the soup until smooth. Season to taste with salt. Serve warm with a drizzle of cream or Calabrian chile oil, if desired. 

Tips: The soup gets a lot of flavor from the Calabrian chile, but if needed, you can substitute with ½ to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper plus 1 teaspoon olive oil. After blending, stir in 1 ½ to 2 teaspoons lemon juice until the soup tastes bright.

If the soup tastes too acidic for your liking, you can balance it with a pinch or two more sugar. Use sparingly.