Thai Tea Tres Leches Cake

Thai Tea Tres Leches Cake

The marquee dessert at Golden Diner, in Manhattan’s Chinatown, is a take on tres leches, a Latin American cake soaked in three kinds of milk, as the Spanish name attests: whole milk, condensed milk and evaporated milk, its unsweetened cousin. Sam Yoo, the chef and owner, infuses the milk with Thai tea powder, a blend of black tea and vanilla that yields a signature tiger-orange hue. The longer the cake soaks, the better it is. (Mr. Yoo lets it rest for as long as two nights, with a flip in between so the liquid that’s pooled at the bottom has another chance to run through.) The cake is finished with whipped cream, coconut flakes toasted near gold and lime zest lending a bright sting. Keep the cake in the refrigerator until the last moment, so it’s as cold as possible and melts in the mouth, almost like ice cream. The faint bitterness of the tea checks the sweetness of the cake, so it’s just enough. 

Yield: 12 servings

FOR THE CAKE

Butter, for greasing the pan

2 ¼ cups/286 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the pan

5 large egg whites

½ teaspoon cream of tartar 

1 ½ cups plus 2 tablespoons/320 grams granulated sugar

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

6 large egg yolks

½ cup/110 milliliters whole milk 

1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract

FOR THE TRES LECHES

3 cups/720 milliliters whole milk

2 cups/480 milliliters evaporated milk

1 ¾ cups/420 milliliters sweetened condensed milk 

Heaping ½ cup/42 grams Thai tea powder (see Tip)

FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM

2 cups/480 milliliters heavy cream

½ cup/117 grams sour cream

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

FOR SERVING

2 cups/100 grams unsweetened coconut flakes, toasted (see Tip)

3 limes, for zesting

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch cake pan and dust with flour.

Prepare the cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high until soft peaks form, about 1 minute. Gradually add the sugar, whipping as you go, until fluffy with firm peaks, about 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, whole milk and vanilla until well combined. With the mixer running on medium speed, gradually add the wet ingredients to the whipped whites until well combined, stopping and scraping the bowl as necessary. Gradually add the dry ingredients until well combined, scraping the bowl as necessary.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, then spread evenly. Bake for 18 minutes, then rotate the pan and continue baking for another 8 to 10 minutes, until the top is golden brown. A toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and let cool in the pan until slightly warmer than room temperature, about 30 minutes. Refrigerate the cake, still in the pan and uncovered, while you make the tres leches mixture.

Make the tres leches: In a small saucepan, warm the whole milk, evaporated milk and condensed milk over medium heat. Stir occasionally until just shy of simmering, steaming but not bubbling, 10 to 15 minutes. Whisk in the tea powder. Take the saucepan off the heat and let the tea steep for 10 minutes. (It will turn orange.) Using a fine-mesh sieve or tea strainer, strain into a liquid measuring cup or medium bowl.

Take the cake out of the refrigerator. Using a fork, poke holes all across the surface of the cake — the more holes the better — as close together as possible. With the cake still in the pan, cut it into 12 even pieces. (It will be more difficult to cut later, once the tres leches mixture has soaked through.)

Carefully pour the warm tres leches mixture slowly and evenly over the cake, pausing as necessary to let the cake absorb the mixture. The cake should be fully soaked through the center; the white of the crumb should not be visible. Cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or for a minimum of 3 hours.

Just before serving, make the whipped cream: Combine the heavy cream, sour cream, sugar and vanilla extract in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whip on high speed until the cream doubles in volume and forms stiff peaks, about 1 minute.

When ready to serve, take the cake out of the refrigerator. Transfer each slice to a separate plate. (Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.) Using a spatula, spread the whipped cream on top of each slice, or pipe it from a pastry bag. Scatter with the toasted coconut flakes until the whipped cream is covered completely. Finely grate lime zest directly over each slice. Serve cold: The cake should melt in your mouth, with a texture close to ice cream.

Tips: Thai tea powder can be purchased at Thai markets or online. Look for a brand of Thai tea powder with no added sugar or milk powder, such as Wangderm.

To toast coconut, spread on a rimmed baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until golden brown and crunchy, stirring once, 5 to 10 minutes.

I used 12 teabags instead of the 42g instant powder. Half in the milk mixture and half in 12oz of boiling water which I added to the mixture after steeping. The flavor is the right strength.

I tried making this recipe's cake from scratch but found it challenging, time-consuming, and not that good. Instead, I started using yellow/white box cake. The box recipe usually calls for water, but substitute it with whole milk. I also whisk 1/2-1 tsp of cardamom powder into the box cake dry mix. I follow NYT's recipe for the Thai tea milk mix, and I soak the box cake with it. I've made this cake 2-3 times this way, and it's always gone in minutes. People are always shocked its box cake.

Sunday Sauce

Sunday Sauce

In many Italian American households, Sunday means there’s red sauce simmering all day on the stove. It might be called sauce, sugo or gravy, and surely every family makes it differently, but the result is always a tomato sauce rich with meat. This recipe (which you can also make in a slow cooker) follows a classic route of using shreddy pork shoulder, Italian sausage and meatballs. Once the sauce is done, coat pasta in the sauce, spoon some meat on top and share it with the whole family alongside a green salad, crusty bread and red wine. The sauce can keep refrigerated for up to one week and frozen for up to three months.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 3-inch chunks

Kosher salt and black pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 pound hot or sweet Italian sausage, or a combination

1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped

6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

⅓ cup red wine

2 (28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes

3 basil sprigs

1 pound uncooked homemade or store-bought meatballs

1 ½ pounds tubular or long noodles, like rigatoni or spaghetti

Grated Parmesan or pecorino, for serving

Season the pork shoulder all over with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium high. Working in batches if necessary, cook the pork until browned on two sides, 8 to 10 minutes total, adding more oil if the pan looks dry. Transfer pieces to a bowl as they finish. Add the sausages to the pot and cook until browned, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer to the bowl.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, if needed, and the onion and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and cook until softened, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the red wine, stir, scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan and cook until the wine is nearly evaporated, 2 to 4 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and basil, then fill one of the 28-ounce cans with water. (You’ll use it in a second.) Return the pork shoulder and sausages to the pot, along with any accumulated juices in the bowl. Nudge them around so they are submerged. Add the meatballs on top, then add enough water from the can to cover the meat. (There’s no need to stir.) Partly cover the pot, bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork shoulder falls apart when shredded with a fork, 2 to 2½ hours.

When you’re ready to eat, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to package instructions until al dente. While the pasta cooks, slice the sausage and shred the pork shoulder. Transfer to a platter along with the meatballs and a few spoonfuls of sauce. Reserve ½ cup pasta water, then drain and add the pasta to the pot of sauce. Over medium heat, toss the pasta with the sauce, adding pasta water as needed until the sauce clings to the pasta.

Divide pasta between bowls, then top with a bit of each meat. Pass the Parmesan and platter of meat at the table.

Cranberry-Orange Scones

Cranberry-Orange Scones

Cranberries and orange are a classic sweet-tart pairing in these scones, which are quick-to-make but super satisfying. Folding the dough a few times, and using a combination of buttermilk and cream creates a flaky and tender texture that is irresistible. The glaze adds another punch of orange flavor, but it is totally optional, if you prefer a simpler scone. The scones freeze well after baking, but for the best texture, make sure to defrost them at room temperature and warm gently before serving. Feel free to swap in another citrus fruit for the orange, and just about any other dried fruit for the cranberries. Tart cherries and lime also make a great combination.

Yield: 9 scones

FOR THE SCONES

1 medium orange

¼ cup/50 grams granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

2 ¼ cups/288 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon fine salt

½ cup/113 grams unsalted butter, cold and cut into cubes

1 cup/130 grams dried cranberries, roughly chopped

½ cup/115 grams buttermilk, cold

½ cup/115 grams heavy cream, cold, plus more to brush over the scones

FOR THE (OPTIONAL) GLAZE

1 cup/100 grams confectioners’ sugar

4 to 6 teaspoons orange juice

Pinch salt

Heat oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Zest the orange into a large bowl. (You should have about 2 teaspoons of zest.) Reserve the remaining orange for the glaze. Add the ¼ cup granulated sugar to the zest and use your fingers to rub the zest into the sugar. The mixture will be very moist and fragrant. Add the flour, baking powder and salt and whisk to combine.

Add the butter to the bowl and toss to coat in flour. Use your fingers or a pastry blender to work the butter into the flour until it is the size of small peas. Add the cranberries and stir to combine. Make a well in the center of the mixture and add the buttermilk and cream. Use a fork to gently stir the mixture into a shaggy dough. (It’s OK if there are a few loose, floury pieces of dough.)

Dump the dough onto a lightly floured surface and pat it into a 1-inch-thick rectangle. Fold the dough in half then pat it into a rectangle again and fold it one more time. Pat the dough into a square that is about 7 inches wide and 1 inch thick, then cut it into 9 pieces. Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet, brush the tops of the scones with a bit of cream and sprinkle with more granulated sugar.

Bake scones until golden brown and cooked through, 18 to 22 minutes.

While the scones are baking, make the glaze, if desired: Juice the orange. Add the confectioners’ sugar, 4 teaspoons of orange juice and a pinch of salt to a bowl. Whisk until smooth, adding more juice as needed to make a thick, but pourable glaze.

Let the scones cool for about 15 minutes, then drizzle or brush the glaze over the scones. These are best the first day, but you can store any leftover scones in an airtight container for a day or two. They also keep well in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.

TIP: Just preheating the oven for ANOTHER batch of these luscious so easy to make scones....I have made these so often I fear I will turn into a scone!!! Just a tip, I freeze the butter and grate it into the flour mixture,so simple and even distribution of the butter. I also measure the 2 liquids into a 1cup measure and pop it into the freezer while assembling all the dry ingredients. The key to wonderful scones is all ingredients as cold as possible!! Still refusing to glaze as they are so good.

Thanks. A winning combination of flavors. To prevent drying out the edges, I find it best to pat scone dough into a circle, score wedges with a bread knife & bake whole. Once cooled, it's easy to separate them into moist nuggets of chewy triangle without crusty edges capable of shredding the roof of the mouth --

have been freezing raw scones for years in a plastic zip lock bag...bake straight from the freezer

Outstanding, few subs due to ingredients on hand: yoghurt instead of buttermilk,fresh cranberries, demerrara sugar instead of the glaze, 1.5 tsp of baking powder (thanks to previous comments).

Light and flaki,perfect sweetness level

Butterscotch Banana Cream Pie

Butterscotch Banana Cream Pie

This is grown-up banana pudding in pie form. One bite, and you may never want banana pudding any other way. Salted butterscotch pudding pairs with ripe, sweet bananas for a balanced (and slightly boozy, if using rum) filling. A crunchy pistachio and vanilla wafer crust nestles the thick custard, while a not-too-sweet crème fraîche topping lightens the whole thing. Be sure to slice and serve this pie directly from the refrigerator — if it doesn’t stay cold, it may be messy. 

Yield: 8 servings

FOR THE CRUST

1 ½ cups/175 grams vanilla wafer crumbs (from about 50 wafers)

¼ cup/50 grams granulated sugar

6 tablespoons/85 grams melted butter

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or ½ teaspoon fine salt

¼ cup/30 grams shelled unsalted pistachios, very finely chopped

FOR THE BANANA PUDDING

4 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons/27 grams cornstarch

¾ packed cup/165 grams dark brown sugar

1 cup/240 grams heavy cream

1 cup/240 grams whole milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon dark rum or vanilla extract

1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or ½ teaspoon fine salt, or more to taste

3 to 4 ripe medium bananas, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM

¼ cup/60 grams crème fraîche or sour cream

1 cup/240 grams cold heavy cream

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

2 teaspoons rum or vanilla extract

¼ cup/30 grams shelled unsalted pistachios, finely chopped, for garnishing

Make the crust: In a medium bowl, mix together the wafer crumbs, granulated sugar, butter, salt and pistachios. Pour the crust mixture into a 9-inch pie plate and use the bottom of a lowball glass or measuring cup to press evenly along the bottom and sides. Freeze for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oven to 350 degrees.

Bake the crust for 15 minutes, until it begins to turn a slightly deeper golden brown. Cool completely.

Make the pudding: In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and cornstarch until thickened. Set aside close to the stove. In a heavy saucepan, heat the brown sugar and 2 tablespoons of water over medium until the sugar dissolves, stirring occasionally. Bring to a boil and continue to cook for 4 to 6 minutes, until the bubbling slows. (It should reach about 240 degrees on an instant-read thermometer; be careful not to burn it). Turn off the heat, and add the cream and milk carefully as they will bubble vigorously at first. Whisk thoroughly. You may have some bits of undissolved sugar, but they will continue to melt.

Return to medium heat and cook the cream mixture until it begins to simmer, an additional 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully and slowly pour about ¼ cup of the hot cream into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the yolk mixture into the saucepan while whisking, then continue to cook, whisking continuously, until large bubbles form on the surface. Remove from the heat, then whisk in the butter, rum and salt. Taste the pudding and stir in more salt if you’d like.

Layer half of the banana slices over the bottom of the cooled crust. Pour the warm pudding over the bananas and smooth out the top. Place the remaining bananas on top, cover loosely with plastic wrap so a skin doesn’t form and let cool at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Chill the pie completely, for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Make the whipped cream: Use a hand mixer and a large bowl or a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment to beat the crème fraîche and heavy cream on high speed until medium-stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the powdered sugar and rum and beat until just incorporated. Dollop the whipped cream on top of the chilled pie, top with chopped pistachios and slice and serve immediately. The pie will keep, refrigerated, for up to 4 days.

Laminated Pie Dough

Laminated Pie Dough

Wonderful pie crust requires only a couple of ingredients and tricks to ensure it’s extra flaky and tender. This dough is hydrated with ice water and apple cider vinegar, which helps prevent a tough, chewy crust. Quartering the dough and stacking it before rolling yields many flaky layers, giving you a shortcut version of laminated pastry. This recipe makes enough dough for two crusts: freeze the extra round of dough, if you’re not using it, for up to 4 months. When you’re ready to use it, thaw it, wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator. 

Yield: 2 rounds of dough for 9-inch crusts

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

⅔ cup/115 grams ice water

3 cups/385 grams all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons/28 grams sugar

2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 1 teaspoon fine salt

1 ¼ cups/285 grams cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

In a liquid measuring cup, add the vinegar to the ice water. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the butter and gently flatten some of the larger pieces with your hands as you massage them into the flour. You want some pieces about the size of a marble, and some small and flat. Larger pieces create flakes in the crust while smaller pieces make it tender.

Make a well in the center of the mixture and pour in about ½ cup of the icy vinegar water. Using a fork, gently work the flour into the water until it is mostly hydrated, adding more liquid if needed. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and gently knead it together a few times until the unincorporated bits of flour begin to disappear. Some floury bits are OK.

Press the dough into a square, about 1 ½ inches thick, and cut into quarters. Stack 2 of the quarters on top of one another (place the others to the side) and gently press into another square about 1 ½ inches thick. Slice that into quarters again, and stack those 4 quarters on top of one another. Form that stack into a round and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Use a rolling pin to gently roll over the covered dough round to flatten it out into a round about 1 ½ inches thick. Repeat this process with the remaining two quarters. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days until ready to use.

Spinach Egg Bites

Spinach Egg Bites

Lovers of the sweet, earthy flavor of leafy greens can rejoice in these fluffy egg bites, which are mostly spinach and scallions bound by a little egg. Many great dishes of the world start like this: Spanikopita, the savory Greek spinach and feta pie, comes to mind, as does kuku sabzi, the herby, frittata-like Persian dish. These egg bites are a great make-ahead breakfast or high-protein snack on their own, and they’re also a lovely lunch or light dinner alongside a green salad. They’re adaptable, too: You can swap out the scallions for dill or parsley, and the Parmesan for Cheddar or feta. Make them your own.

Yield: 12 egg bites

Olive oil, for greasing

2 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed

4 scallions, thinly sliced crosswise

6 large eggs

2 cups (16 ounces) cottage cheese

¼ cup grated Parmesan

Pinch of ground nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Arrange a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 375 degrees. Generously grease a 12-cup muffin tin with olive oil and place on a sheet pan.

With clean hands, squeeze the spinach over the sink to remove as much water as possible. Drain well and add to a large bowl, along with the scallions, eggs, cottage cheese, Parmesan and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper. Stir until well combined. Add the flour and baking powder, and stir just until incorporated.

Fill the muffin tin with the spinach mixture — ⅓ cup each — and bake until set, 20 to 25 minutes. Allow to cool completely before running a sharp paring knife around the edges of each cup to help release the bites. (Alternatively, you could use a silicon muffin mold.)

These egg bites stay fresh in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days and in the freezer for up to 3 months. To reheat, just microwave them for 10 seconds at a time until warmed through.

TIP: I make egg bites all the time, and they used to always stick even after oiling the muffin tray. I find it helpful to place the muffin tin in a baking tray filled with water. This can elongate baking time by 5-10 minutes but the egg bites never stick to the pan!

For some tasty variations on this recipe, which reminds me of a northern Italian spinach torta, you could use ricotta instead of cottage cheese, breadcrumbs instead of flour, the addition of slowly melted onions, leftover rice or potatoes, and fresh herbs. It's very flexible and I've found all variations come out great, and are good cold as an antipasto. You can alternatively use mini muffin tins or a 9 inch pie pan, adjusting baking time.

San Francisco-Style Vietnamese American Garlic Noodles

San Francisco-Style Vietnamese American Garlic Noodles

These noodles, adapted from the cookbook "The Wok" by J. Kenji López-Alt, and based on the noodle dish originally created and served by Helene An at San Francisco’s Thanh Long restaurant, are extraordinarily simple and delicious on their own, but that doesn’t mean you can’t fancy them up a bit. They go very well with seafood, and some raw, shell-​on shrimp stir-​fried along with the garlic right from the start would be an excellent addition. You could also add a few spoonfuls of tarako or mentaiko — ​Japanese salted pollock roe. Sushi-​style flying fish roe (tobiko) or salmon roe (ikura) would also be a great addition, as would chunks of crab or lobster meat, or even Western-​style caviar (if you’re feeling flush).

Yield: 4 servings

4tablespoons unsalted butter

20medium garlic cloves, minced or smashed in a mortar and pestle

4teaspoons oyster sauce

2teaspoons light soy sauce or shoyu

2teaspoons fish sauce

1pound dry spaghetti

1ounce grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano (heaping ¼ cup)

A small handful of thinly sliced scallions (optional)

Melt the butter in a wok or saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce and fish sauce, and stir to combine. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, bring 1½ inches of water to a boil in a 12-​inch skillet or sauté pan over high heat. (Alternatively, heat up just enough water to cover the spaghetti in a large Dutch oven or saucepan.) Add the pasta, stir a few times to make sure it’s not clumping, and cook, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente (about 2 minutes short of the recommended cook time on the package).

Using tongs, transfer the cooked pasta to the garlic sauce, along with whatever water clings to it. (Reserve the pasta water in the skillet.) Increase the heat to high, add the cheese to the wok, and stir with a wooden spatula or spoon and toss vigorously until the sauce is creamy and emulsified, about 30 seconds. If the sauce looks too watery, let it keep reducing. If it looks greasy, splash some more cooking water into it and let it re-​emulsify. Stir in the scallions (if using), and serve immediately.