Tacos al Pastor

Tacos al Pastor

Tacos al pastor, a Mexican street-food staple, are a perfect synthesis of local flavors (pineapple, chiles, annatto), Spanish influence (pork, adobo), and Middle Eastern technique (a spinning, shawarma-style vertical rotisserie). The synthesis comes from Mexico’s history, but perfection comes from the combination of sweet pineapple, spicy meat and fragrant corn. This recipe, from the chef Gabriela Cámara, provides an easy way to make it at home; try boneless chicken thighs if you don’t want pork. Either way, make sure to blot the meat until very dry before cooking it so you get a hard sear that mimics the char of a grill. —Julia Moskin

Yield: 12 tacos (3 to 4 servings)

For the Adobo (marinade)

2 dried cascabel chiles

1 dried ancho or guajillo chile

2 plum tomatoes, halved and cored

¼ small white onion

¼ cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 to 2 chiles de árbol (depending on how much heat you like), stems removed

3 garlic cloves

1 whole clove or ¼ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon ground achiote (annatto) seeds

Pinch of ground cumin

Pinch of dried oregano

1 tablespoon kosher salt

For the Tacos

2 pounds pork tenderloin, thinly sliced crosswise then cut into bite-size slices and shreds

Kosher salt

1 cup small chunks fresh pineapple

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

12 corn tortillas

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as needed

Minced white onion and chopped fresh cilantro, in separate bowls, for topping

Hot sauce and lime wedges, for topping

Make the marinade: Break off the stem ends of the cascabel and ancho (or guajillo) chiles and shake out and discard the seeds. Place chiles in a saucepan and pour over cold water to just cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then turn off the heat and let the chiles soak, 15 minutes.

In a blender, combine tomatoes, onion, oil, citrus juices, stemmed chile de árbol, garlic, clove, achiote seeds, cumin, oregano and salt. Add the soaked chiles and a few tablespoons of the soaking water and purée until smooth. Add more of the soaking water if needed to make a thin paste. Set aside about ½ cup of the marinade for cooking.

Sprinkle the meat with salt. Place in a container, add remaining marinade, and mix until well coated. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight. (The recipe can be made up to this point up to 1 day in advance.) Bring to room temperature before cooking.

Combine the pineapple and sugar in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Stir often until the sugar is melted and the pineapple is caramelized, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl.

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 225 degrees. Prepare a tortilla basket or slightly damp clean dish towel. On a griddle or in a heavy skillet, warm the tortillas on both sides until hot and blistered, stacking them in the basket or wrapped in the towel. Transfer to the oven until ready to serve.

Place a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Drain off all excess liquid from the meat and blot between layers of paper towels. Add the oil to the hot skillet, swirl to heat through, then add 2 tablespoons marinade. Let sizzle for a moment, then add the meat, spreading it out in a single layer. (If your skillet is smaller than 12 inches, cook in batches to avoid crowding the pan.) Let meat cook undisturbed over high heat until browned on the bottom, then sauté over high heat, stirring often, until cooked through but still moist, about 5 minutes. After 3 minutes, taste and stir in more reserved marinade as needed. When cooked, transfer to a serving bowl.

Place everything on the table, including the toppings, and serve at once.

TIP: Like Gyros or Doner Kebab, Al Pastor refers to meat stacked onto a vertical spit, which is then sliced off the outside as it cooks. Put the pork loin in the freezer for 20 minutes or so to firm it up. You'll have an easier time slicing it thin, then put it in the marinade. A dash of liquid smoke in the marinade is a nice cheat, if you like smoky meat.

*I was too lazy to pat mine dry but cooking it in a 12" cast iron pan created the char I was looking for that reminded me of when I had Al Pastor in Puerto Vallarta. As long as you have a searing hot pan and don't overcrowd it, it should do the trick. :)

*Marinate before and sauce after. Marinate >> Cook >> Sauce. Marinate the meat reserving a small portion (this recipe says 1/2c) to help additionally flavor the meat during cooking. Using the marinade after cooking would do very little in getting flavor penetration and also ruining the crispiness that you're trying to achieve on the meat.

*I make this similarly but pound the pork after slicing the disks. Then cut two 1-inch slices of pineapple for the top and bottom supports. I set 3-4 skewers through a pineapple and then layer the pork, finishing off with the final slice of pineapple to hold the skewers together. I cook at 275F for two to three hours. It doesn't have to be cooked all the way. Let it rest until manageably cool. Slice thinly and mix with pineapple then saute on high in cast iron until crisp/cooked.

*Excellent recipe. Here’s the lazy version with what I had at home. Instead of the dried peppers, I used gochugang powder, Aleppo pepper flakes, plenty of smoked pimentón de la vera and a splash of La Morena chipotle sauce. I am a purist from Mexico City and the pastor flavor came through. You gotta use corn tortillas and all the trimmings for real al pastor delight. Also excellent for fish al pastor tacos, like Chef Camara serves at Contramar, her fabulous restaurant in Mexico City.

*Delicious and pleasing. Marinade is similar to a homemade adobo sauce; used 2 pasilla chilis instead of cascabel, 1 tsp ancho chili powder instead of dried ancho chili (this all is what was available locally). A little extra fresh orange juice for the sweetness to cut down spiciness of the red chilis de arbol. Pineapple takes longer to caramelize (20 minutes). Used red onion instead of white. Didn't add marinade when sauteeing the meat, but people used the reserved marinade as sauce on tacos.