Pickled Green Papaya and Red Cabbage

Light and crunchy, this pickle makes a refreshing side for Cambodian-style beef skewers, or for any grilled meat. The recipe is from Nite Yun, chef-owner of Nyum Bai restaurant in Oakland. True green papayas are only available at Asian markets (for more info, see note). If you can’t get one, use unpeeled Persian cucumber, cut into matchsticks rather than shredded (and skip the cabbage; it’ll make the cucumber look murky).

1 ½ lbs green (unripe) papaya, peeled and seeded

2 tbsp plus 1 tsp. kosher salt

¾ cup sugar

1 ½ cups rice vinegar

2 minced fresh red or green Thai chiles (optional)

¼ red cabbage, halved

Shred papaya into ribbons, ideally using a julienne peeler or a spiralizer* for long, crunchy strands. Alternatively, cut into matchsticks. In a colander, mix papaya with 2 tbsp. salt and let drain in sink 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make brine: In a medium bowl, mix remaining 1 tsp. salt with the sugar and vinegar until dissolved.

Rinse and drain papaya, then squeeze out as much water as possible and add to brine. Stir in chiles, if using, and push cabbage into brine. Cover and chill overnight.

Remove cabbage and stir papaya to disperse color. Thinly slice cabbage and mix back in.

*How to Shred Green Papaya: Crunchy and delicately tart, green papayas are rock-hard, with dark green skin and bright white flesh; find them at Asian markets. For salads like the one here, they’re most easily shredded with light strokes of an inexpensive Asian-style julienne peeler. Bonus: the peeler works on carrots, beets, and more.