Rio’s Spicy Chicken Wings

Rio’s Spicy Chicken Wings

Ganso, a Japanese restaurant in downtown Brooklyn, is justly known for its steaming bowls of fragrant ramen. But the fiery, crunchy chicken wings there are the stuff of dreams. This recipe, from the chef Rio Irie, hits all the right notes: spicy from chile paste and fresh ginger, salty from soy sauce, funky from fish sauce, sweet from mirin. —Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

For the Marinade

3 pounds chicken wings

1 large garlic clove, peeled and grated

1½-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon nam pla or other Asian fish sauce

½ teaspoon mirin

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon black pepper

For the Glaze

1 cup mirin

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon nam pla or other Asian fish sauce

2 teaspoons red yuzu kosho (see note)

½ teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon grated garlic

½ teaspoon shichimi togarashi (optional)

For Serving

1teaspoon sesame seeds

Black pepper

1tablespoon chopped scallions

In a large bowl, mix together all marinade ingredients except chicken wings. Add the wings and toss to coat. Cover and let chicken marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

When ready to cook, combine all glaze ingredients in a small saucepan. Simmer over low heat, stirring frequently, until glaze reduces to a saucy consistency, about 20 minutes. Transfer to large mixing bowl and set aside.

Heat a broiler to high. Set a baking rack on top of a rimmed baking sheet and arrange wings on rack. Broil for 12 minutes, flipping wings halfway through, until they are crisp and golden.

Transfer wings to the bowl with the glaze and toss to coat. Transfer wings to a serving platter and garnish with sesame seeds, pepper and scallions. Serve hot.

Tip: If you can’t find red yuzu kosho (available at Japanese specialty markets), you can substitute 1 teaspoon of hot sauce or chile powder mixed with 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice and 1 teaspoon lemon zest.