Brown-Butter Mashed Potatoes

Brown-Butter Mashed Potatoes

The simple act of browning butter takes this holiday mainstay from simple to superb in a matter of minutes. Russet potatoes are the perfect blank canvas for the toasty, nutty notes of the brown butter, which is lifted to a starring role as it permeates the potatoes and pools on top. Mashed potato purists may say that using a ricer or food mill is the only way to achieve a creamy texture, but a hand mixer or potato masher works just as well, as long as you don’t overmix and your potatoes stay hot. Make sure to create divots for the pools of brown butter that sit atop the dish, which make each spoonful feel extra luxe.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

1 cup/2 sticks unsalted butter

2 cups whole milk

1 head of garlic, halved

4 thyme sprigs or 3 rosemary sprigs

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 pounds russet potatoes (about 8 medium potatoes)

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Once it begins to bubble vigorously, cook for another 6 to 8 minutes, swirling occasionally, until the bubbles subside and turn into foam, and toasty brown flecks begin to float on the surface. Take off the heat and scrape the bottom of the pan. Pour the browned butter into a heatproof measuring cup and set aside to cool slightly. (Don’t clean the saucepan.)

Add the milk to the saucepan and heat over low. Give the brown butter a stir, then add all but a scant ¼ cup into the milk. Add the garlic and herbs and steep over low for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Peel and quarter the potatoes (see Tip for make-ahead instructions). Boil the potatoes for 15 to 20 minutes, until a fork goes through them without resistance. Drain the potatoes and return them to the dry pot. Put over low heat and shake the potatoes to dry them out.

Strain the warm milk mixture over the potatoes (or just pluck out and discard the garlic and herbs) and mash with a potato masher or a hand mixer on low speed until your desired consistency is reached. Taste and season with salt and pepper. (If making ahead, turn off the heat and cover with a lid to keep warm for up to 30 minutes.)

Transfer to a large serving bowl. Make a few divots on the surface with the back of a spoon and pour the reserved brown butter on top.

Tip: You can peel and cut the potatoes up to 4 hours ahead; keep them in a bowl of cool water to keep them from discoloring.

I came up with a easy way to keep potatoes warm after they’re mashed. I put the potatoes in a 3 quart aluminum bowl and put it in a covered 7 quart stock pot with a little water in the bottom. Then I just leave the pot to simmer on a back burner. The effect is similar to a mini steam table. The potatoes stay warm and taste great. I’ve left them this way for up to 45 minutes, occasionally stirring every 15 minutes or so. Happy Thanksgiving!

In my experience, the potatoes will cook through more evenly if you start them in cold water and then bring them to a boil, rather than adding potatoes to already boiling water (which tends to cook the outside too fast).