Kimbap

Kimbap

Kimbap, or “seaweed rice,” is often mistakenly referred to as sushi, but it is a popular Korean dish with its own unique flavors and history. These rolls can be simple, with just a single sheet of seaweed wrapped around cooked rice, or complex, with entire restaurants dedicated to serving variations of kimbap. This recipe uses traditional fillings, like a mix of vegetables, egg and meat, but other popular fillings include cucumber, imitation crab, bulgogi or canned tuna. It’s very adaptable, and it does well with substitutions. Leftover kimbap can be kept in the refrigerator, but the rice will lose some of its moisture, so to serve a second time, soak each piece in beaten egg, then pan-fry them until golden.

Yield: 4 rolls (2 servings)

For the Filling

1½ packed cups raw spinach (about 3 ounces)

1½ teaspoons sesame oil

Kosher salt and black pepper

Neutral oil, for sautéeing

½ medium or large carrot, peeled and julienned

1 thin sheet of eomuk (fish cake), cut into ¼-inch-thick strips

3 ounces canned Spam, cut lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick strips

2 eggs, beaten

4 strips of danmuji (pickled yellow radish), see Tip

For the Rolls

4 gim (nori) sheets

3 cups freshly cooked short-grain rice

1 tablespoon sesame oil, plus more for brushing

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt, or more to taste

Prepare the spinach: Bring a pot of water to a boil and blanch the spinach until it turns bright green, about 45 seconds. Transfer the spinach to an ice bath, or transfer it to a colander set in the sink and run the spinach under cold water. Squeeze it to remove excess water and place it in a bowl. Season with 1½ teaspoons sesame oil and ⅛ teaspoon salt. Mix well and set aside.

Prepare the remaining ingredients for the kimbap filling: In a large, well-oiled skillet, working in separate batches, sauté the carrots, eomuk and Spam over high, seasoning the carrots and eomuk with salt and pepper to taste (the Spam does not need extra salt), until just tender and lightly golden. Set aside.

In an oiled nonstick skillet, cook the beaten eggs with a pinch of salt. Swirl the pan to cover the entire surface area and as soon as the bottom is set, about 2 minutes, use a rubber spatula to carefully flip the egg like a pancake, doing your best to keep it in one piece. Cook just until the egg is no longer runny and has just set, another 30 seconds. Slide the cooked eggs onto a cutting board and let cool. Once cooled, cut into long, ¼-inch-thick strips and set aside.

Prepare the rice: Place the warm, freshly cooked rice into a mixing bowl. Add 1 tablespoon sesame oil and ¼ teaspoon sea salt. Mix well with a large spoon.

Assemble the kimbap: Lay 1 sheet of gim on a bamboo mat. (If you don’t have a bamboo mat available, you can lay a clean tea towel on a flat surface and top it with plastic wrap.) Spread about ½ to ¾ cup of rice across two-thirds of the seaweed sheet in an even layer, leaving the top third of the seaweed empty. (You might want to have a small bowl of water handy, so you can wet your fingers to prevent the rice from sticking to them.) Spread the prepared ingredients horizontally in rows, starting from the side closest to you.

Roll the kimbap: Using both hands and the help of the bamboo mat, starting from the side closest to you, lift up the bottom of the seaweed and fold it up to cover the filling, tucking in the filling with your fingers. Use the bamboo mat to apply even and firm pressure, pressing to ensure the filling stays in place. Continue rolling until you reach the end of the rice.

To close the kimbap roll, using your fingertips, spread a small amount of water at the edge of the empty seaweed and roll to seal. If the kimbap doesn’t close, spread a little rice to use the rice as an adhesive. Repeat with the remaining seaweed and ingredients. Each time you roll, reposition the kimbap at the bottom of the bamboo mat.

To serve, lightly brush the rolls with sesame oil. (This will keep your kimbap moist and shiny.) Using a sharp knife and applying even pressure, cut the kimbap into ½-inch pieces. Serve and enjoy! (If preparing in advance, prepare the fillings except the rice and store in the refrigerator. When you're ready to eat, make the rice and assemble your kimbap. Avoid assembling your kimbap too far in advance as refrigerating your kimbap will cause the rice to harden.)

Tips: You can purchase danmuji that is pre-cut for kimbap, but it’s most commonly sold whole in long logs. If purchasing a large piece of danmuji, simply cut it into ¼-inch-thick strips for use here.

Growing up 1st generation Korean in America, mom would use what ever she found at the grocery store, but kimbap was always staple food for family picnics with other immigrant Korean families at the city parks or beach trips- tightly stacked in containers and eaten away in layers as the day progressed. Much better snack food than cookies. Her Americanized versions also could include hot dogs sliced long and thinly sliced pickles.

Please add braised burdock root if you can find it! Dried burdock root can be purchased at a Korean grocery store and sometimes they also have pre-prepared burdock root.

As an alternative to spam (I mean, you can also use thick-cut ham, sauteed a bit), try tuna. Mix canned tuna with mayo or kewpie mayo. Add other seasonings, salt, if desired. Place a line of perilla leaves (or shiso) on top of your rice; on top make a line of dressed tuna. Try to roll up the leaves as finish the roll.

Some other popular options for kimbap fillings:

Seasoned, sauteed burdock roots

Imitation crab meat

Tuna mixed with mayo layered on perilla leaf

Ground beef cooked in soy sauce

Stir fried kimchi

Charred Eggplant With Burrata and Fried Capers

Charred Eggplant With Burrata and Fried Capers

When summer cooking feels like too much, the simple formula of grilled vegetables served with an herby dressing and a ball of burrata will get you through the season. Here, grilled or seared eggplant is bathed in an herbaceous, lemony caper-infused olive oil for a light dinner or side dish. Salt-packed capers work best, as they are generally larger and have a petal-like shape that opens up when fried, resulting in a crisp shell that is crunchy and salty (but, brined capers work, too). Make sure to dry the capers well before frying to prevent aggressive spitting when they hit hot oil. Fried capers are highly snackable, so consider making a double batch. Serve with bread, flatbread or, for something heartier, pasta.

Yield: 4 servings

Extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup salt-packed or brined capers, rinsed

1½ to 2 pounds eggplant (about 2 medium or large), trimmed and sliced into ½-inch disks

1 large handful of parsley, basil or a combination, finely chopped, plus more to serve

2 garlic cloves, grated

1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper

2 balls burrata (about 1 pound), at room temperature

In a small saucepan or skillet, heat ¼ cup olive oil over medium-high until it shimmers, about 1 minute. Meanwhile, dry the capers very well by wrapping them in paper towels or a clean dish towel and wringing out the moisture. (If there is too much moisture, the oil will sputter aggressively.) Line a plate or tray with paper towels or a clean dish towel.

When the oil is ready, carefully drop the capers in and fry for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden. (Watch closely, as smaller capers will cook more quickly.) Remove the capers from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on the lined plate. They will crisp up further as they cool.

Transfer the caper-infused oil to a large heatproof bowl and set aside to cool for a few minutes.

Lay the disks of eggplant on a large cutting board or sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil, flip over and drizzle the other side. Heat a large (12-inch) grill pan or cast-iron skillet on medium-high. (See Tip for grilling instructions.) When hot, working in batches, add the eggplant disks in a single layer and cook for 2 minutes, pressing the eggplant into the pan to encourage browning. Flip, reduce heat to medium and cook on the other side for another 2 to 3 minutes, until completely tender. (The eggplant continues to soften as it soaks up the marinade in the next step, so don’t be tempted to overcook.) Remove the eggplant from the pan and place them back on the cutting board or plate. Continue cooking the remaining eggplant.

Meanwhile, to the bowl with the cooled caper-infused oil, add the herbs, garlic, red-pepper flakes, lemon zest and juice, ½ teaspoon of kosher salt and a few pinches of black pepper. Toss to combine and taste, making sure it has enough salt. Add the warm eggplant slices to the oil and gently toss to coat. Allow to marinate for at least 5 minutes (see Tip).

Serve this on one large platter or as four separate servings. Place the burrata (for single servings, halve each ball of burrata) on the plate along with the eggplant and top with any remaining marinade and the fried capers, and scatter with fresh herbs.

Tips: To grill the eggplant: Heat a grill to medium-high, and clean and oil the grates. Grill the eggplant over direct heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until there are char marks and the eggplant has begun to soften. Flip and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes until cooked through. If using a gas grill, close the lid between flips.

The cooked eggplant can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead and left to marinate in the fridge, which will intensify the flavors; bring it to room temperature before serving.

This will be interesting to try. We usually brush each eggplant disc with olive oil, sprinkle with garlic powder and dried basil on each side, and then grill on a gas grill as described in this recipe. We then serve them on grilled sourdough, with tomato slices, hummus, mozzarella, fresh basil and balsamic vinaigrette.

Grilled Steak With Sauce Rof

 Grilled Steak With Sauce Rof

A combination of onion, parsley, scallions and chile, this classic Senegalese sauce adds complexity to dishes. Typically used to stuff fish as a marinade and top it as a bold relish, it is also great for tempering the smoky char of grilled chicken or steak. In this recipe, some sauce rof is used as a marinade and served as a topping. Thinned with a dash of olive oil, the relish also gets lemon juice to add a lovely sparkle. Go for a nice marbled cut of meat — the fat intensifies the flavor of the grilled meat and the sauce rof cuts through the richness. This condiment can be made up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated in an airtight jar.

Yield: 4 servings

1½ pounds skirt steak or boneless short ribs (see Tip)

Coarse kosher salt (such as Morton) and black pepper

1 medium white or yellow onion, diced

1 serrano chile or jalapeno, stemmed

2 garlic cloves, peeled

4 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 small bunch parsley, leaves and tender stems only (about 2 ounces)

1 lemon

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Pat the steak dry and season lightly with salt.

Roughly chop the onion in a food processor by pulsing repeatedly. Add the serrano and garlic and pulse to combine. Add the scallions and parsley and pulse until chopped into a coarse paste. Transfer the paste to a large bowl and zest the lemon directly into it. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. (Alternatively, finely chop the onion, serrano, garlic, scallions and parsley into a coarse paste by hand. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the lemon zest, oil, salt and pepper.)

Transfer about ¾ cup of the paste to a small bowl. Place the meat in the large bowl and turn to coat. Marinate for at least 15 minutes at room temperature, or refrigerate, covered if needed, for up to 12 hours.

Combine the reserved marinade with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and squeeze in about 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt and a pinch of black pepper, stir to combine and set aside.

Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high.

Scrape any excess marinade off the steak and discard. Grill the steak until the contact side is seared, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip and cook for an additional 3 minutes for medium-rare. Cook for an additional minute on each side for medium.

Transfer the steak to a board to rest for at least 5 minutes. Slice and transfer to a serving platter. Spoon the marinade dressing over the steak and serve immediately.

Tip: If your boneless short ribs are already in slices that are ½ inch thick or thinner, you can use them as is. If they’re thicker, lay several strips on a piece of plastic wrap, leaving about ½ inch between each slice and top with another piece of plastic wrap. Pound the meat with a rolling pin or the bottom of a heavy bottle until the strips are flattened to about ½ inch thick.

Fantastic and simple. I used hanger steak. I don’t have a grill, so I used my cast iron pans to sear then finished for about 3 minutes in 350 oven. (And I used half a jalapeño instead of the Serrano bc I’m a hot spice wimp)

Yeah - olive oil is not used in making rof (which is not a sauce, ever, but a paste used inside meats only). Peanut, safflower, canola, sunflower, maybe grapeseed (tho that's not available in Senegal). The perfume of olive oil will definitely change the taste. I'd go w sunflower or a canola blend. And re: the peppers. A Serrano never entered a Senegalese kitchen (to cook a Senegalese dish). Kaani, whose US cousin is the scotch bonnet, is the proper pepper. If you can't find that, use habañeros.

Pretty good. The condiment/marinade turned out a little bitter for me, I think due to the use of olive oil instead of a neutral oil. If I made it again, I'd also add an additional pepper or two for some extra kick.

No-Bake Mango Lime Cheesecake

No-Bake Mango Lime Cheesecake

This creamy mango cheesecake has the unmistakable scent and taste of fresh limes and cardamom — and, best of all, it doesn’t require you to turn on the oven. Avoid using fresh mango pulp here: An enzyme in raw mango can prevent the gelatin from setting. (Canned mangoes don’t have that enzyme; it’s destroyed when they’re heated to high temperatures to be preserved.) If you must use fresh mangoes, purée the pulp, then bring it to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly, and cool before using.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

For the Crust

¼ cup/55 grams unsalted butter (½ stick), melted, plus more at room temperature for greasing the pan

5 ounces/140 grams graham crackers or speculoos

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

For the Filling

1 (¼-ounce/7-gram) packet granulated gelatin

¼ cup/60 milliliters hot water (120 to 140 degrees)

1 cup/240 milliliters heavy cream

1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar

2 (8-ounce/225-gram) packages cream cheese, cubed, at room temperature

½ cup/120 milliliters canned unsweetened, puréed mango pulp

1 lime, zested and juiced

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

For the Glaze

1 (¼-ounce/7-gram) packet granulated gelatin

¼ cup/60 milliliters hot water (120 to 140 degrees)

1 cup/240 milliliters canned unsweetened puréed mango pulp

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon lime juice and 1 teaspoon zest (from 1 lime)

Generously butter the sides and bottom of an 8- or 9-inch round springform pan. Line the base and the sides with parchment paper and grease again with butter. Chill pan in the refrigerator. (This helps the butter firm up and the cake release more seamlessly.)

Start the crust: Pulse the crackers in a food processor until they’re a fine powder. Add the brown sugar and pulse to combine, then add the melted butter and pulse again until fully incorporated. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan and use your fingers or a measuring cup to press it into an even layer. Freeze the pan for 10 to 15 minutes until completely chilled.

Prepare the filling: Add ¼ cup/60 milliliters room temperature water to a small, wide bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let sit for 5 minutes, until gelatin granules swell. (There should be no dry flecks of gelatin.) Pour the ¼ cup/60 milliliters hot water over the hydrated gelatin and stir to dissolve.

As gelatin hydrates, add the heavy cream and ½ cup/100 grams sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, and mix at medium speed until the cream forms stiff peaks, about 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.

Wipe down the stand mixer bowl and the whisk attachment. Add the cream cheese and remaining ½ cup/100 grams sugar, and whisk on medium-high until smooth, light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Scrape down the bowl. Add the mango pulp and lime juice, and beat on medium-low, gradually increasing the speed to medium-high once the mango is incorporated, about 2 minutes. Stop the mixer and scrape down the bowl.

Add the gelatin mixture and whisk over medium-high until completely incorporated. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Add the whipped cream, lime zest and the cardamom. Fold the cream into the mango mixture until there are no flecks of cream. (The mixture will be very light and airy, resembling a mousse.) Pour this mango mixture over the chilled crust, and level the top with an offset spatula. Return pan to the refrigerator and chill for 30 minutes.

As cheesecake chills, prepare the glaze: Add ¼ cup/60 milliliters room temperature water to a small, wide bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let sit for 5 minutes, until gelatin granules swell. (There should be no dry flecks of gelatin.) Pour ¼ cup/60 milliliters hot water over the hydrated gelatin and stir to dissolve.

In a separate medium bowl, whisk the mango pulp with the sugar. Whisk in the gelatin mixture. Add 1 teaspoon lime juice and 1 teaspoon lime zest, and whisk to thoroughly combine. Pour this mixture over the top of the cheesecake, swirl the pan to coat evenly, cover the top of the pan with plastic wrap. Refrigerate the cheesecake until the gelatin layer is completely set and firm, at least 6 hours and up to overnight.

When ready to serve, remove the plastic wrap, and carefully release the cheesecake from the springform pan. Slice the cheesecake with a sharp, serrated knife. (For cleanest slices, wash the knife with warm water, and wipe dry with a towel between each cut.)

Notes: I used canned red tart cherries with this recipe and it was fantastic. Worked well with both the lime juice and the cardamom. The tart cherries in a can have no sugar added and most other canned fruit I could only find in heavy or light syrup. Given that I couldn’t find the canned mango - this proved to be a great substitute. Very pretty as well. I used the same proportions of cherries and just puréed in Cuisinart.

Oklahoma Onion Burgers

Oklahoma Onion Burgers by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Homer Davis and his son Ross invented what he called the Depression burger at the Hamburger Inn in El Reno, Okla., as a means to add inexpensive bulk to their burgers. Rather than toasting, the buns are steamed in onion-scented vapor. That the technique — cooking the patties smashed-style with a huge amount of thinly shaved onions and steaming the buns — and restaurant remain popular to this day is a testament to the burgers’ deliciousness. If you prefer, you can take the cooking (and the accompanying lingering onion aroma) completely out of the house by heating the skillet or griddle directly over a very hot grill and cooking outdoors (see Tip).

Yield: 4 servings

1 pound ground beef, preferably 20 to 30 percent fat

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 medium or 1 large yellow or white onion, sliced as thinly as possible, and on a mandoline for best results (8 to 10 ounces of sliced onion)

4 slices American cheese

4 soft, sturdy hamburger buns, such as King’s Hawaiian rolls

Dill pickle chips and condiments, as desired

Divide the beef: Line a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Divide the ground beef into 4 even balls. Working one ball at a time and using your hands, massage the meat until it is cohesive and tacky, about 15 seconds. Next, using clean hands, roll each into a smooth ball. Place the balls on the baking sheet, with 1 ball in the center of each quadrant. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

Shape the patties: Gently press each ball into a disk-shaped patty about 3 inches wide. Place the patties on a sheet pan or large plate, and season the tops with salt and pepper. Flip the patties, and top each with a large pile of sliced onions — as many as you can balance on top; they should resemble a large haystack. (It is important to not add salt to the onions at this point, as it will draw out excess moisture, which will inhibit searing.)

Heat the skillet or griddle: Heat a large (12-inch) cast-iron or carbon-steel skillet or griddle (see Tips) over an indoor burner set to high heat or on the grates of a hot outdoor grill for a few minutes until very hot; a drop of water should skitter around the surface. (If you don’t have a pan skillet or griddle big enough, you can cook the burgers in batches.) Place 1 patty of beef in the center of one quadrant of the pan, with the onions on top (do not add any oil).

Smash the burgers: Using a very stiff spatula, press on the onions and beef to form a patty 4½- to 5-inches wide. As you smash, focus on the patty’s edges so that the finished patty is slightly thicker in the center and smashed out as thinly as possible along the edges. Repeat with the remaining patties. Use the spatula to place any stray onions back on top of the burgers. Season the onions lightly with salt and pepper.

Cook the burgers: Allow patties to cook without moving until the edges are dark brown and crusty, 1 to 2 minutes. Holding the spatula upside down (so that the head of the spatula is angled down to increase leverage), scrape the edges of each patty off the pan, working around each patty to ensure that you don’t leave any crispy edges behind. When the edges have all been loosened, turn the spatula back over (so you are holding it the standard way) and flip the patties onion side down. Use the spatula and tongs or a fork to tuck any stray onion slices mostly under the patties.

Steam the cheese and buns: Add a slice of cheese to each patty. Place the top half of each burger bun on top of the cheese, and place the bottom half of each bun on top of the top bun, split-side down. Cover the pan or griddle with a large domed lid, a large overturned saucepan or a clean folded dish towel. (To avoid a fire, make sure the edges of the dish towel do not hang over the skillet or griddle. If cooking on an outdoor grill, just close the lid.) Continue cooking until the onions are browned along the edges and the buns are steamed through, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

To serve, open the cover or lid. Remove the bottom burger bun halves to a serving platter. Add pickles and condiments as desired. (These burgers don’t typically need condiments.) Lift each burger from the skillet with the spatula and transfer to the bottom bun. Serve immediately.

Tips: To add some chargrilled flavor, heat your entire gas or charcoal grill to high heat. (A full chimney of coals spread out under the cooking surface for a standard kettle grill, or all the burners on high for a gas grill.) Next, smash the onion-topped patties on top of a parchment-lined sheet tray in Step 2.

When ready to cook, heat a skillet or griddle directly over one side of the grill until very hot (5 minutes with the lid off, if cooking with coal, or 15 minutes with the lid on, if cooking with gas). When the skillet is hot, brush both the grates over the empty half of the grill and the skillet or griddle with a little neutral cooking oil. Add the onion-topped patties to the grates with a spatula, season with salt and pepper, and let them cook without moving until well charred on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. When ready to flip, flip them straight into the skillet, onion-side down, and continue cooking exactly as directed in Step 6.

Wowowow!! What a delicious burger! We followed the recipe exactly and took the suggestion to put a cast iron on the grill to prevent onion-house. I made a couple with the Impossible meat too and my vegetarian husband was a big fan as well! Was worth prepping everything in advance before bringing it out to the grill since everything was quick. Highly highly recommend this recipe. Bravo Kenji!

My ex’s grandfather made these at his diner in Oklahoma so they were always known in the family as grandpa burgers. No cheese, onions diced instead of sliced, served with yellow mustard. Very good. Frying the onions separately is definitely NOT the same thing and not better.

Trader Joe's brioche buns are my go-to for hamburgers. Soft and sweet but much sturdier than other brioche buns I've tried.

Grilled Patty Melts

Grilled Patty Melts

Oozy and crisp, a patty melt is always a treat to eat, but not so much to cook: The process can be splattery, and it can be tricky to make them for more than two people at a time. The grill not only solves these problems, but imbues the simple components — ground beef, bread, cheese and onions — with a hint of smoke. Grill the onions until golden, then the patties, mostly on one side, for a chargrilled exterior and medium-rare inside. While that’s happening, toast the bread and melt the cheese on the cool side of the grill. Serve with a pickle and mustard alongside to cut through the richness.

Yield: 4 servings

1½  pounds ground beef (20-percent fat)

8 slices rye bread

Softened butter, for greasing

8 ounces sliced Swiss, Cheddar or both

1 large sweet onion, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rings

Olive oil

Salt and black pepper

Heat a grill for two-zone cooking over high heat (see Tip). Form the beef into 4 (6-ounce) patties at least ¼ inch larger than the size of your bread. Refrigerate while you prepare the remaining ingredients and grill the onions (cold meat ensures a medium-rare middle and browned exterior).

Thinly spread butter on one side of each piece of bread and set aside. On a sheet pan, toss the onion with oil, salt and pepper to coat; take the onion slices and tongs out to the grill.

Grill the onion slices over direct heat, flipping occasionally, until softened and charred in spots, 10 to 12 minutes. If using a gas grill, cover grill between flips. Transfer back to the sheet pan.

Season the patties generously with salt and pepper. Bring the patties, bread, cheese and a spatula to the grill. Place the patties over the hottest part of the grill. Cook, covered if using a gas grill, until patties have released from the grates, are browned and some juices pool on top, 3 to 5 minutes. (If flare-ups occur, move the meat to the cooler side of the grill.) Flip and cook until the patties are medium rare, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to the sheet pan.

Place the bread butter-side down over indirect heat (without the flame). Top them with the cheese, cover the grill and cook until the bread is toasted and the cheese has melted, 1 to 3 minutes. If the cheese is melted but the bread isn’t toasted yet, move it to direct heat (watching closely for burning). Transfer to plates (or the sheet pan), top four slices with patties and onions and close the sandwiches, pressing down to meld everything together.

Tip: For indirect heat on a charcoal grill, pour the coals on one side. For a gas grill, heat all burners on high, then turn one off.

Pro Tip for any grilled sandwich - Don’t butter the bread. Melt the butter in your skillet or griddle. Lift up sandwich before turning and add another pat for the second side. So much easier.

Use mayonnaise for the nicest crispist grilled bread

Grilled Steak With Tomato Tartare

Grilled Steak With Tomato Tartare

This warm-weather dinner channels steak tartare's signature combination of rare meat and sharp accoutrements: The steak is charred on the outside and medium-rare within, then topped with a mixture of chopped tomatoes, shallots, capers and chives. But unlike classic tartare, the embellishments are left in larger pieces for bigger, bolder punches. The steak and tomato juices combine to form a bright and briny sauce that you can sop with grilled bread or drizzle over a tuft of arugula, watercress or Little Gem lettuces.

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1½ pounds skirt, flank, flatiron or bavette steak, patted dry

Salt and black pepper

1 pound tomatoes, chopped into bite-size pieces

1 large shallot, thinly sliced and rinsed under cold water

2 tablespoons capers, chopped, plus 1 tablespoon brine

Heat the grill to high. In a container that fits the steak, stir together 2 tablespoons Worcestershire and 2 tablespoons oil. Season the steak lightly with salt and generously with pepper, then toss to coat in the marinade. Let sit while you make the tomatoes (or up to 24 hours in the refrigerator).

In a medium bowl, stir together the tomatoes, shallot, capers, brine, remaining ½ teaspoon Worcestershire and the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside (up to 1 hour ahead).

Shake the marinade off the steak. Grill the steak, flipping every 3 minutes, until well-browned and 130 degrees in the thickest part for medium-rare, 6 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the steak. (If using a gas grill, cover grill between flips.) Transfer to a cutting board to rest for at least 5 minutes.

Slice the steak and top with the tomatoes and all the juices in the bowl, followed by the chives.

TIP: Raise your hands -- how many of you have started to prep a recipe written like this and added all 5 T of oil to the 2 T plus 1/2 tsp of Worcestershire sauce before you realized you needed 2 different containers, and to split the oil and Worcestershire? My best friend laughed at me for writing out all my recipes by hand before cooking, but if I don't rewrite the ingredient list and instructions to break up steak marinade from tomato marinade, etc., there's a very good chance I'll mess it up!

All the time. For those who have the attention span of a gnat, it would be very helpful if the recipe said "2 1/2T oil, reserving 1/2T for the sauce" or whatever. Some do it, but many don't.

Vegetarian Tomato Mapo Tofu

Vegetarian Tomato Mapo Tofu

Mapo tofu, the classic Sichuan dish that is now a Chinese American staple, receives a summery twist with the addition of tomatoes. Its signature tingly and assertive flavors are intensified by the umami tanginess of tomatoes, which also add a hint of fresh acidity. When you add the tofu, it will look like there’s not enough liquid, but rest assured, the tomatoes do break down during the cooking process, providing a soupy base. Not all brands of doubanjiang are created equal, so look for ones that come from Pixian, in Sichuan, as they tend to be the most flavorful thanks to a long period of fermentation under sunlight, resulting in a reddish-brown color with a deep and complex umami.

Yield: 4 servings

Vegetable oil (or other neutral oil)

1 yellow onion, halved and cut into ½-inch wedges 

6 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and halved or quartered, depending on size

Salt and pepper 

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 

1 to 2 whole dried red chiles (such as er jing tiao or chile de árbol) or ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 to 3 tablespoons doubanjiang (fermented spicy broad bean paste) or Chinese black bean sauce 

½ to 1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns (to your liking)

1 pound tomatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 (14- to 16-ounce) packages silken tofu, drained

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 scallions, thinly sliced

Cooked rice, to serve

Heat a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot on medium-high. When hot, drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons of oil and then add the onion and mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Stir until the mushrooms and onions have softened and have golden edges, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the ginger, garlic, dried chiles, doubanjiang and Sichuan peppercorns, and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, soy sauce and ½ cup water, and stir to combine.

Add the silken tofu to the pot, breaking it up into irregular chunks, and gently stir to combine. Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook for 10 minutes.

To serve, drizzle with sesame oil, top with scallions and eat with rice.

TIP: We really enjoyed this! I did tweak it a little after reading David Tannis's vegan mapo tofu again (it is also an excellent recipe) and soaked a small handful each of dried sliced cloud's ear mushrooms, dried sliced shitake mushrooms and the dried 'gourmet mushroom mix' from Costo. I chopped up the rehydrated mushrooms and added them along with a 1/2 cup of the mushroom water (replacing the 1/2 cup of water) and also added tablespoon or so of rice wine. Served with brown rice and chili crisp.

Salmon With Lemon-Herb Marinade

Salmon With Lemon-Herb Marinade

Here's one of the easiest ways to entertain: broil or grill a large salmon fillet, then adorn it with lemon wedges and rosemary sprigs. This recipe marinates the rich salmon in lemon juice, soy sauce and herbs. 

Yield: 6 servings

13-pound salmon fillet, in one piece

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped fine

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tablespoons sesame oil

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges

Sprigs of rosemary, for garnish

Wipe salmon fillet dry with paper towels. Combine remaining ingredients (except lemon wedges and rosemary sprigs) in small bowl and mix well. Pour mixture over salmon, making sure it is coated on both sides. Marinate for at least an hour before cooking.

Preheat broiler or grill. Cook salmon, turning once — five to six minutes each side for medium rare.

Place salmon on serving platter and garnish with lemon wedges and sprigs of rosemary.

TIPS: Living on the Gulf Coast, I cook fish at least twice a week or more. Regarding Step 2, there is NO need to flip the fish; only bad things can happen. Remember, fish unlike beef, does not metabolize; It only gets heated. Here's an easier way. Bake the salmon skin side down at 350F for 20 minutes. If you wish, finish the Salmon under the broiler for 2-3 minutes, but not necessary. Same instructions for grill (indirect heat).

We live in the Pacific Northwest and cook salmon a lot. Excellent recipe and the marinade adds wonderful flavors. We rarely grill our salmon anymore. Instead we bake it at high temperature on a foil lined cookie sheet coated with olive oil. Preheat oven to 450. Prepare the marinade as described and marinate 2 hours. Bake salmon skin side down on the foil on the middle rack for 7-10 minutes depending on thickness. Don't turn. It will continue cooking after leaving oven. tent with foil. Serve. Mmm

This is my go-to salmon recipe. It's best to plan ahead to make this cause it takes a little time to prep the marinade and the longer you marinade it the better it tastes. I've substituted the brown sugar using maple syrup and also coconut palm sugar and they both work great, but neither give the subtle crisp you get when you use the brown sugar. Also, I strictly grill the salmon to cook it. The oven works fine, but putting the fillets on the grill really elevates the end result!

Hong Kong-Style Curry Fish Balls

Hong Kong-Style Curry Fish Balls

Hong Kong boasts some of the most delicious street food in the world, from freshly baked egg tarts to steaming baos and heaping bowls of noodles. It’s hard to beat the amazing flavours you can find there. One especially iconic Hong Kong street food dish is curry fish balls: these delicious, bouncy “meatballs” made with fish are simmered in a vibrant, mild curry and served on skewers, perfect for eating on the go as you stroll along.

1 Tbsp neutral oil

3 shallots (about 1 ½ cups), minced

1 ½ Tbsp flour

2 cups chicken stock

1⁄3 cup coconut milk

3 Tbsp Madras curry powder

1 Tbsp soy sauce

¼ tsp white pepper

½ tsp sugar

1 lb fried fish balls (about 30), thawed if using frozen

Drizzle oil into a large pan and add in shallots. Fry until they are softened and have just begun to caramelize.

Add in flour and stir thoroughly to coat shallots.

Pour in chicken stock and stir thoroughly to create the roux. Bring to a boil and let thicken.

Add in coconut milk, curry powder, soy sauce, white pepper and sugar, stirring to combine thoroughly.

Add in fish balls and let simmer for 2-3 minutes.

Serve immediately on skewers or over rice or noodles.

Notes: Hong Kong-style curry powder is traditionally used, but can be hard to find. Madras curry powder is a great and accessible substitution.

Corn Mochi

 Corn Mochi 

Fresh corn kernels are blended right into the batter of this cake until smooth. The result is a mochi cake that showcases corn at its peak, adding a nuanced dimension that layers oh-so-well with the flavours of coconut milk, vanilla and butter. Did I mention how low-effort this is? Everything goes into the blender to make the batter. Honestly, the hardest part is waiting for the cake to cool before tearing into it.

Ingredients: 

2 ½ cups corn kernels, preferably fresh cut from 2-3 cobs

½ cup full fat coconut milk

¼ cup butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for greasing baking pan

¾ cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

½ tsp vanilla extract

2 cups glutinous rice flour (I use Koda Farms Blue Star Mochiko)

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease baking pan with butter. You can use any of the following pans: 8” x 8” or 9” x 9” square baking pan, 8” or 9” round baking pan or similarly-sized cast iron skillet.

Place corn kernels and coconut milk in a high-speed blender. Blend until very smooth. Place remaining ingredients and blend again until smooth.

If you don’t have a high-speed blender, use an immersion blender or food processor to blend the corn and coconut milk until smooth. Then, in a medium bowl, whisk the “corn milk” with melted butter, sugar, eggs and vanilla until smooth. In a separate large bowl, whisk glutinous rice flour, baking powder and salt. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients. Whisk until very smooth and no streaks of white remain. There is no gluten in “glutinous rice flour” so you don’t need to worry about over-mixing this batter.

Pour batter into greased baking pan. Give the pan a few hard taps on the counter to knock out air bubbles. Bake for about 60 minutes, or until center is set but bounces back when pushed, and edges are golden brown.

Set pan on a wire rack to cool fully to room temperature. If you can’t wait until it cools to room temperature, the mochi cake will be more custardy and gooey but not yet its maximum chewiness. Store in an air-tight container at room temperature up to one day or in the fridge for longer periods.

TIP: Mochi cakes in general are notably less chewy with the passage of time, so be sure to eat it fresh for maximum texture.

Miso Broiled Tofu

Miso Broiled Tofu

For tofu with crisp edges and custardy middles, give it just 15 minutes under the broiler. The technique is inspired by Nobu Matsuhisa’s miso-broiled black cod, which combines miso and sugar to create a charred crust that also insulates the protein, preventing it from toughening. Tearing the tofu into jagged pieces — as opposed to sliced cubes or rectangles — creates more nooks and crannies for the broiler to singe, creating yet more texture. Eat any way you would enjoy baked tofu, perhaps with steamed rice and a green vegetable (broil green beans or asparagus for 5 to 8 minutes), or over salad greens (in which case you’ll want to make a double batch of the miso marinade to dress your lettuces).

Yield: 4 servings

2 (14-ounce) blocks extra firm tofu, sliced lengthwise 1-inch-thick

2 tablespoons brown sugar (light or dark)

2 tablespoons white miso paste

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

¼ to ½ teaspoon ground cayenne

Arrange tofu slices on a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. Cover with another kitchen towel (or paper towels), and place a flat cutting board or sheet pan on top. Stack a few cans or a skillet on top to weigh it down. Let tofu drain for 15 to 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the sugar, miso, soy sauce, rice vinegar, oil and cayenne until smooth. Tear the tofu into bite-size pieces (about 1 inch), and add to the miso mixture. Stir gently to coat. You can cook the tofu right away, or cover and refrigerate to marinate for up to 24 hours.

When you’re ready to cook, arrange a rack about 6 inches from the broiler and heat broiler to high. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil. Remove the tofu from the marinade and arrange on the sheet pan. Reserve marinade.

Broil, flipping occasionally through with a spatula, until browned and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes total. (Broilers have hot spots, so check the tofu periodically and rotate the pan and tofu as needed so everything crisps.) Drizzle with the reserved marinade.

TIP:  Trying to avoid the too-deep char one cook mentioned, broiled the tofu 10 inches from the broiler for about 20 minutes, turning the pieces three times. Tofu had dark edges and wonderful taste. Served with chili crisp on the side.

For my taste it was too sweet. Two tablespoons of sugar seemed to overpower the miso. Would consider trying one tablespoon sugar next time.

This marinade was an absolute slam dunk—a dreamy balance of salt, acid, sweet, and umami. And my dinner companions and I loved the contrast of crispy edges & soft insides on the torn tofu. My only complaint: after 15 minutes under the broiler, the flavors dulled dramatically; undertones were less “pleasing pop” than “heavy char.” That said, I’m already salivating over all the tantalizing applications I can imagine for this marinade. And I’ll try the tofu in the air fryer next time.

Lunchbox Harvest Muffins

Lunchbox Harvest Muffins

These diminutive muffins make the rotation at least twice a week in my daughter's lunchbox. Although they are filled with plenty of good-for-you ingredients (whole-wheat flour, olive oil, apple and grated vegetables), they are moist and just sweet enough to ensure that they don’t end up coming back home, which is the sad fate of many a salami sandwich.

Yield: About 2½ dozen mini-muffins (or 1 dozen regular muffins)

140 grams (1⅛ cups) whole-wheat pastry flour

5 grams (1 teaspoon) baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

½ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

70 grams (⅓ cup) packed dark brown sugar

1 small apple, grated, and juices reserved (½ cup)

½ cup grated carrots or butternut squash or parsnips

½ cup grated zucchini or beets

55 grams (⅓ cup) raisins

40 grams (½ cup) unsweetened shredded coconut

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease mini-muffin tins.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon and salt.

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, olive oil, honey, brown sugar, grated apple and juices and grated vegetables.

Using a spatula, fold the dry ingredients into the wet mixture until just combined. Gently fold in the raisins and coconut.

Fill each muffin cup ¾ of the way up, and bake for about 15 to 18 minutes for mini-muffins and about 20 to 22 minutes for regular muffins. The muffins are finished baking when an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

TIP: I make these about once a week now. Very forgiving recipe -- I've messed with it all kinds of ways: Used regular flour instead of whole wheat, all carrots for the veg (and all zucchini too), accidentally doubled the amount of veggies, on-purpose doubled the amount of raisins, and skipped the coconut. It's always come out fine. And my kids vacuum them up.

I took the olive oil down to 1/3 cup and the brown sugar down to 1/4 cup and they were delicious and moist. Thank you!

Added 2 overripe bananas, vanilla, omitted the sugar and halved the oil, and baked in a loaf pan. Totally delicious!!!

Delicious and moist muffins! To add some warmth and spice, I also added 1/2 a teaspoon of ground ginger and 1/8 teaspoon of cloves. I also substituted the raisins for walnuts and crystallized ginger!

Soba Noodles With Ginger Broth and Crunchy Ginger

Soba Noodles With Ginger Broth and Crunchy Ginger

This noodle dish celebrates the pungent, spicy notes of ginger by both infusing it in stock to create a warming broth and frying it with shallots and panko to create crunchy ginger crumbs you’ll want to sprinkle onto everything: eggs, rice or even a savory porridge. Feel free to double the amount of the ginger crumbs, if you like; they’ll keep in an airtight jar at room temperature for up to one week. Serve these noodles with your protein of choice — tofu, fish, leftover roast chicken — or any cooked vegetable for a complete meal.

Yield: 4 servings

For the Toppings

6 tablespoons/90 milliliters olive oil

1½ teaspoons red-pepper (chilli) flakes

½ teaspoon sweet paprika

1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger (about 30 grams), peeled and finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

¼ cup/20 grams panko bread crumbs

1 tablespoon white and black sesame seeds

Kosher salt

For the Broth

2¼ cups/500 milliliters chicken stock or vegetable stock

1 (4-inch) piece fresh ginger (about 65 grams), peeled and roughly chopped (about ⅓ cup)

1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped

1 small head of garlic, halved crosswise

For the Noodles

7 to 9 ounces/about 200 grams dried soba noodles

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce

⅓ cup/10 grams roughly chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)

First, prepare the toppings: Add 4 tablespoons oil to a large skillet and heat gently over medium. Place the red-pepper (chilli) flakes and paprika into a small heatproof bowl. Once the oil is quite hot but not smoking, pour it over the spices. Set aside to infuse as you make the ginger crumbs.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the same skillet and heat over medium-high. Once hot, turn the heat back down to medium and add the ginger and shallot. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until nicely browned and starting to crisp. Add the panko, sesame seeds and ¼ teaspoon salt, and cook for 4 to 6 minutes more, stirring often, until nicely toasted. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

Meanwhile, make the broth: Add all the broth ingredients plus ¾ cup/200 milliliters water and 1 teaspoon salt to a medium lidded saucepan, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover once simmering, turn the heat down to low and cook for 25 minutes. Drain through a sieve set over a bowl, discarding the solids, and return the broth to the saucepan along with another 1¼ cups/300 milliliters hot water. Keep warm over low heat until ready to serve.

Prepare the noodles: Boil them in a pot or saucepan according to package instructions, or for 5 minutes in plenty of boiling water. Drain well and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Return the drained noodles to the pot or saucepan and toss with the lime juice, soy sauce and cilantro (coriander).

Divide the warm broth across four bowls, then use a fork to twist and gather the noodles and nest them artfully in the bowls. Top with a spoonful of the ginger crumbs and the chile oil, serving the remaining alongside.

Double Lemon Chicken

Double Lemon Chicken

The universally loved crispy chicken — from Austrian schnitzel to Korean fried chicken to the westernized lemon chicken that you’d get at your local Chinese restaurants — is found in multiple corners of the world, and is therefore served on many tables. That lemon chicken is the inspiration for this dish, where a sweet lemony sauce coats crispy fried chicken pieces. This Middle Eastern version uses a cheater’s preserved lemon paste and plenty of fresh lemon to brighten it up. You’ll make a little more preserved lemon paste than you need; use it for salad dressing, toss it with roasted vegetables, or swirl it into soups. Serve this dish with some lightly cooked greens and plain white rice.

Yield: 4 servings

For the Chicken

2 medium egg whites (About 2 ounces/60 grams) (save the yolks for another use)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons cornstarch (cornflour)

Salt and black pepper

4 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts

⅓ cup/80 milliliters neutral oil, such as sunflower oil

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely sliced at an angle

1 tablespoon (about 5 grams) roughly chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves

2 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 to 2 lemons)

For the Cheater’s Preserved Lemon Paste

1 large unwaxed (or well-scrubbed) lemon (about 4 ounces/150 grams), ends trimmed and discarded, then cut into ¼-inch / ½-centimeter-thick rounds, seeds (pips) removed

¼ cup/60 milliliters lemon juice (from 2 lemons)

2 teaspoons flaky sea salt

For the Lemon Sauce

3 cups/700 milliliters chicken stock

1½ tablespoons/25 grams unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon superfine sugar (caster sugar), or granulated sugar

⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and roughly crushed in a mortar and pestle

1½ tablespoons cornstarch (cornflour)

2 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 to 2 lemons)

Salt and black pepper

Prepare the chicken: In a large bowl, whisk together the egg whites, soy sauce, cornstarch (cornflour), ½ teaspoon salt and a good grind of pepper just until there aren’t any lumps, about 30 seconds. Working one breast at a time, place the chicken between 2 pieces of parchment paper and use a meat mallet (or the bottom of a pan) to pound the chicken evenly so it’s a scant ½-inch/1-centimeter thick. Transfer to the egg white bowl and continue with the remaining. Stir everything together gently to coat, and refrigerate to marinate for at least an hour (or overnight if you’re getting ahead).

Meanwhile make the preserved lemon paste: Add all the ingredients to a small, lidded saucepan set over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat to medium-low, cover and cook for 12 to 14 minutes, or until the rinds start to look translucent and the juice has reduced by about half. Set aside to cool slightly, then transfer everything to a small food processor and blitz until you have a smooth, spreadable paste. (You should have about ¼ cup.) Set aside 3 tablespoons for the sauce, then store the rest in a sealed container in the fridge for up to 4 weeks.

Make the sauce: Add the 3 tablespoons preserved lemon paste, the stock, butter, garlic, sugar, turmeric and half the cumin to a medium saucepan, then place it over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes, until reduced by about a third. Measure out roughly 3 tablespoons of the sauce into a small bowl, then add the cornstarch (cornflour) and whisk until there are no lumps. Whisk this back into the sauce pot and cook for 1 minute, whisking continuously, until smooth and thickened slightly. Remove from the heat.

Heat the oil in a large high-sided frying pan over a medium-high heat. Once hot (a sprinkle of cornstarch dropped into the oil should sizzle right away), fry two of the chicken breasts for 3 minutes per side, or until nicely browned and just cooked through. It should release easily from the skillet with a little help from a metal spatula. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and continue with the remaining 2 breasts. It might spit, so turn down the heat if needed. Wipe out the frying pan, add the sauce and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add back all the chicken breasts and cook for just 3 minutes, gently turning them halfway. Remove from the heat and stir in the 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.

Transfer the chicken breasts (cut them into strips, if you like) to a large serving platter with a lip and pour the sauce all over. Sprinkle with the remaining cumin. In a small bowl, toss together the spring onion, cilantro and remaining 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, and spoon this all over.

TIP: 

Real preserved lemon recipe:

Sliced lemon (seeds removed) are layered in a glass jar (pasta sauce jar's OK) with 5% (by wt) salt.

You MUST create anaerobic conditions. Press slices down hard after each layer to release juice, and pack jar to the very top to dispel air. The juice's Vitamin C absorbs residual oxygen: the rind's natural yeast can now do its thing.

Keep in sunlight for 3 weeks (greenhouse effect).

Lasts 1yr+ at room temp. Use *with* syrupy juice: reduce recipe's salt.