Sweet and Salty Frozen Grapes

Sweet and Salty Frozen Grapes

This snack draws on the South Asian and Mexican culinary traditions of serving ice-cold fruit seasoned with spices and salt. Sour and salty fruit has perennial appeal—as proven by new supermarket options like the frozen sour grapes called Fruit Riot. Here, grapes get tossed in a punchy combination of lemon juice, lemon zest, chile flakes, sugar and salt, then frozen solid for a refreshing treat. The lemon zest is optional, but the flecks add a bright, citrusy note.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1½ pounds red or green seedless grapes off the stem, washed and dried 

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest (optional), plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice 

2 teaspoons sugar 

1 teaspoon Aleppo chile flakes or other mild chile flakes like Urfa (See Tip) 

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

Add grapes to 1-gallon zip-top bag (1½ pounds of loose grapes fit perfectly in a gallon-sized zip-top bag, allowing them to freeze in a single, even layer—no need to transfer them from a baking sheet to a storage container).

In a small bowl, combine lemon zest (if using), lemon juice, sugar, chile flakes and 1 teaspoon salt, and whisk very well to combine.

Pour the lemon mixture over grapes, seal the bag, and shake well to thoroughly coat each grape.

Lay the zip-top bag flat in the freezer and freeze for at least 6 hours (ideally overnight), until grapes are frozen solid. Remove from the freezer and toss around to loosen them in the bag before tipping them into a bowl. Serve immediately. (Frozen grapes can be stored in the freezer for up to 6 weeks.)

Tip: For a sharper heat, use ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper or ½ teaspoon Italian crushed red pepper in place of the mild chile flakes.

serving these in an ice bowl might be a good idea...get two bowls, make sure one is a little smaller...fill the bigger bowl (if they're clear bowls you can throw in some flowers) and carefully place the smaller bowl into the water...you might have some overflow so be careful...center the bowl and secure it with two large rubber bands...putting pie weights in the top bowl helps too...let it freeze and you'll have a nice serving bowl for the grapes. (I make an ice bowl to hold hard boiled eggs for our Seder each year)

Pistachio-Lemon Bars

Pistachio-Lemon Bars

These delightful and easy lemon bars have everything the traditional ones do – tang, sweetness and a buttery base – plus the added benefit of pistachios folded into the filling and the crust.

Yield: 16 servings

The Crust

1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup confectioners' sugar

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

½ cup cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

¼ cup shelled unsalted pistachios, roughly chopped

The Filling

2 eggs

1 cup sugar

½ teaspoon baking powder

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

⅓ cup shelled unsalted pistachios

Confectioners' sugar, for garnish

To make crust, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line an 8-inch square pan with parchment paper (if using foil, lightly butter it). Place flour, sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times. Add butter and process until well combined. Stir in chopped pistachios. Firmly press mixture into the bottom of the lined pan using the flat bottom of a glass or measuring cup (if it sticks, place a piece of parchment paper on the dough before pressing). Bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk together the filling ingredients. When the crust is baked, pour the filling into the pan and bake until set, about 20 minutes. Let cool completely. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and cut into 2-inch squares.

TIP: Pistachio is the best nutty match to lemon! This is now my favorite dessert of all time to make! A couple changes: 1) Used salted pistachios for the crust and filling. The saltiness adds extra complexity to the flavor 2) Omitted salt to prevent excessive saltiness in the crust- the pistachio was already salty 3) Added 5 minutes to baking time for the crust to get extra crisp 4) After adding the filling, lowered temp to 325 and baked 5 m extra. I will continue to make this recipe !

I'm a huge fan of lemon, and this recipe is probably my favorite ever! Super easy. Added 3 times the lemon though (a real fan of lemon, as I said), plus 1 tbsp of flour to compensate for the additional liquid. Came out perfect.

These are absolutely delicious! I reduced the sugar by half, both in the crust and the filling and it was perfect - slightly sweet, with the lemon and pistachio flavors shining through. I can't imagine a whole cup of sugar in the filling - it would be cloying.

I used roasted, salted pistachios, as others have mentioned. They were perfect in this dish. I also used salted butter, so didn't put any additional salt in the crust.

I agree with making 1-1/2 times the filling and with half the sugar and twice the lemon zest (proportionally); also using crushed salted pistachios. I processed the crust ingredients until almost a dough, then pulsed in the nuts. The crust baked up a bit crumbly but a better ratio between crust and filling. Also, after 24 hours the crust held together much better and the filling was more flavourful. I think that's the secret!

Sesame Scallion Buns

Sesame Scallion Buns

Crackly fried Chinese scallion pancakes take the form of baked buns here, crisp on the sesame-speckled outside and tender within. Sizzling scallions in hot oil captures the aroma of the pancakes and brings out scallions’ savory side while preserving their bright green hue. To mimic the pancakes’ scaffolding, the blend is spiraled into a simple yeast dough, subtly sweet and a little buttery. Be sure to bake them right before serving so you can pull apart the hot, soft layers and inhale the fragrant steam before taking a bite.

Yield: 12 buns

For the Buns

½ cup/130 grams whole milk

3 tablespoons sugar

1 (¼-ounce) packet active dry yeast (7 grams; 2¼ teaspoons)

2⅓ cups/303 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

1 teaspoon fine salt

3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes, plus more for the bowl

1 large egg

White sesame seeds, for sprinkling

For the Scallions

¼ cup/60 grams grapeseed or canola oil

2 bunches scallions, trimmed, thick ones halved lengthwise, very thinly sliced

1 teaspoon fine salt

Make the buns: Heat the milk until lukewarm to the touch (over low heat in a saucepan or for 30 seconds in the microwave). Stir in the sugar to dissolve, then stir in the yeast. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer. Add butter and beat on low with the paddle until crumbs form. Make a well in the center and add the foamy milk and the egg. Beat with the paddle on low until a shaggy dough forms. Switch to the dough hook and knead on low speed until the dough is smooth and elastic, 10 to 15 minutes, scraping the bowl and hook occasionally. The dough will be a bit sticky.

Butter a large bowl and scrape the dough into it. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, prepare the scallions: Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium-high until shimmering and almost smoking, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, then add the scallions and salt carefully (they’ll splatter). Stir well. Let stand while the dough rises.

Roll the dough: Gently press down on the dough in the bowl to deflate it. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll it into a rectangle 20 inches wide and 12 inches long, with the wide side facing you. It will be a scant ¼ inch thick. Use a spoon to scoop the scallions onto the dough, reserving any excess oil. Spread the scallions to the bottom and side edges and leave an inch rim at the top. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Shape the dough: Starting from the edge closest to you, roll the dough up in a loose spiral. Pinch the long seam to seal. Using a serrated knife, cut the roll with a sawing motion into 12 even pieces. Place them cut side up on the prepared sheet, spacing evenly apart.

Using your fingertips, gently pull the dough layers apart a bit and if the end is coming unraveled, tuck it under the spiral. Sprinkle the rolls generously with sesame seeds. Cover loosely with the clean kitchen towel and let stand in a warm place for 20 minutes or cover the pan with greased plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Heat oven to 375 degrees while the spirals proof. (If the buns have been refrigerated overnight, let them sit at room temperature until they’re room temperature and puffed.)

Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Immediately after they come out of the oven, brush them with the reserved scallion oil. Serve hot or warm.

TIP: I used crescent roll dough from the pop-can and they turned out excellent! I have a newborn baby at home and this approach made it so fast and easy, yet still special!

Can I just start with puff pastry as the dough and continue the recipe? Yes, you can try puff pastry, but store-bought pizza dough or another store-bought bread dough (like crescent rolls) probably would work better. I haven’t tried it but I’m excited to hear how it goes!

You definitely can make this dough by hand as well: In step 2, mix the flour and salt in a bowl. Add butter and pinch into the flour until crumbs form. Make a well in the center and add the foamy milk and the egg. Beat with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms. Keep beating with the spoon or kneading with your hand until the dough is smooth and elastic, 15 to 25 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky in the beginning and still a bit sticky by the end.

These were quite tasty. The dough is easy to work with and baked up beautifully soft. I needed more oil than called for and still didn't have any left to brush on top. I added gochugaru flakes to the scallions (about 10, 2 small bunches) and put sesame seeds inside. I used non-dairy milk and I baked them like cinnamon rolls pressed together in a pan and liked the softness from less exposed edges. Although the dough rose on proofing, the final product did not rise much, and the buns were small.

Lobster Mac and Cheese

Lobster Mac and Cheese

This recipe for lobster mac and cheese, a variation on a classic plain recipe that Julia Moskin published in The Times, is a rich and shockingly flavorful addition to any feast, and requires only a single lobster to serve six or eight. Or try serving it as a main course for a weeknight dinner.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

1½ pound lobster

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup cottage cheese

2 cups whole milk

1 teaspoon dry mustard

Pinch cayenne pepper

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1 pound sharp Cheddar cheese, grated

½ pound macaroni or elbow pasta, uncooked

Fill a large pot with salted water and set it over high heat to come to a boil. Plunge lobster into water and cover pot. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until it is bright red. Check doneness by pulling an antenna; if it comes off without resistance, the lobster is done. Remove lobster to a bowl and allow to cool.

Meanwhile, heat oven to 375 degrees, with a rack in the upper third of the oven. Use a tablespoon of butter to butter a 9-by-13-inch-square baking pan.

In a blender, purée cottage cheese, milk, mustard, cayenne and nutmeg, and lightly season with salt and pepper. Transfer mixture to a large bowl, add grated cheese and uncooked pasta and stir well to combine. Pour into prepared pan, cover tightly with foil and bake for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, crack lobster claws and tail over the bowl and remove the meat, reserving all liquid that comes out of the lobster. Roughly chop lobster meat.

Uncover baking pan, gently stir in lobster meat and up to 2 tablespoons of the reserved lobster juices, and dot with remaining tablespoon of butter. Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes more, until browned on top. Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

TIP: 13 x 9 inch pan is too big, the casserole comes out less than an inch thick. Use 9 x 9.

Used double the amount of lobster and would not use less.

Used ricotta instead of cottage cheese and a 3/4 provolone/1/4 parmesan mix instead of cheddar.

Cheese does overpower the lobster flavor.

An hour to cook is too long. 45 minutes and the pasta is fully cooked. More and it starts to dry out.

1) Parboil the mac by simply placing the uncooked pasta into the lobster water after removing the lobster, leave it in the hot water for a few minutes to soak up some of that delicious sea flavor, and then drain.

2) Cheddar is way too strong, and I never use cottage cheese. Substitute 1/2 cup ricotta cheese and a 1/2 cup mascarpone and use about 3/4 cup grated parmigianno.

And if you have any fresh basil, shred it and sprinkle over the casserole after baking.

Persimmon Cardamom Cake

Persimmon Cardamom Cake

This bouncy, tender spiced cake celebrates winter persimmons in all their glory. Baking wedged Fuyu persimmons — the squat, tomato like ones — until their flavor concentrates and their moisture dissipates leaves you with syrupy fruit that doesn’t sog up the cake later. A little coconut extract, a whisper of the tropical, props up the gentle sweet aroma of the orange fruit, with cardamom playing a major role in bringing out its floral, pumpkiny qualities. Whipped cream folded into the batter at the end, a trick from the baker Heather Dekker-Hurlbert, results in a light, even crumb. Thanks to a sprinkling of cardamon sugar on top before baking, the cake gains a glorious caramelized crust with cinnamon toast vibes (but cardamom).

Yield: 8 servings

For the Persimmons

4 Fuyu persimmons (about 1 pound), stemmed, peeled and cut into 8 wedges

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

For the Cake

1 cup/240 milliliters cold heavy cream

½ cup/113 grams unsalted butter

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1¼ teaspoons ground cardamom, divided

1 cup/200 grams plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, divided

2 large eggs, at room temperature

½ teaspoon coconut or almond extract

¾ teaspoon kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal, or ½ teaspoon fine salt

1½ cups/190 grams all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

Make the persimmons: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. On a small rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment paper, toss the persimmons with the sugar and lemon juice and spread in an even layer. Bake until the juices have mostly dissipated and become sticky, about 30 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly; keep the oven on.

Meanwhile, make the cake: In a large bowl, whisk the heavy cream by hand or with an electric mixer until billowy soft peaks form. When you turn the whisk right side up, the cream should flop over the top of the whisk like a Santa hat.

In a saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter and cook, stirring, until blondish brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Lightly brush a 9-inch round cake pan with some of the butter, then press parchment paper into the bottom and sides of the pan, crushing the paper around the edges.

Transfer the melted butter to a large bowl and stir in the cinnamon and 1 teaspoon cardamom. Add 1 cup/200 grams sugar and whisk to combine. Add the eggs one at a time, whisking until smooth. Finally, whisk in the coconut extract and salt.

Add half of the whipped cream to the egg mixture. (Refrigerate the remaining cream until ready to serve.) Switching to a flexible spatula, fold in the whipped cream by scooping the egg mixture from the bottom up, while turning the mixing bowl with each scoop, to gently incorporate the cream (it’s OK if there are streaks).

Sift the flour, baking powder and baking soda directly into the bowl. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until just incorporated.

Transfer the batter to the prepared cake pan and top with the cooled persimmons, gently placing them in an even layer. In a small dish, stir together the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and ¼ teaspoon cardamom and sprinkle over the fruit.

Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out totally clean, about 1 hour. Cool completely in the pan. Serve with the remaining whipped cream.

TIP: Fuyu they should be ripe! For the best persimmon flavor. They should be as delicious as you want them to be in the cake.

Ripe Fuyu persimmons (the squat ones) can still be firm, making them easier to cut into wedges and keep their shape in a cake versus, say, Hachiya persimmons (the heart-shaped ones), which need to be very ripe and soft to the touch otherwise they can be astringent to eat. So Fuyu are preferred in this recipe, but Hachiya work, too, if those are all you have.

Triple Ginger Skillet Cake

Triple Ginger Skillet Cake

This cake, at its best when warm, is full of dark molasses flavor and three kinds of ginger (fresh, ground and crystallized). It can be served with powdered sugar, whipped cream or even ice cream — a drizzle of caramel sauce is especially nice, too.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings

½ cup/115 grams unsalted butter (1 stick), at room temperature, plus more for greasing pan

¾ cup/150 grams granulated sugar

1 cup/240 milliliters molasses (not blackstrap)

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled

1 large egg

2½ cups/320 grams all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

¾ cup/180 milliliters whole milk

½ cup/70 grams diced crystallized ginger

Turbinado sugar, as needed, for finishing

Powdered sugar, as needed, for finishing

Heat the oven to 325 degrees, and lightly grease a 12-inch oven-safe skillet with unsalted butter.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the remaining butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the molasses, and grate the ginger using a fine grater into the mixing bowl. Mix until well combined, scraping the bowl as necessary, 1 minute more. Add the egg and mix to incorporate, about 30 seconds more.

In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking soda, ground ginger, cinnamon and salt to combine. Add half of the flour mixture to the mixer and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the bowl well.

Add the milk and mix to incorporate. Add the remaining flour mixture and mix until just incorporated. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the crystallized ginger by hand.

Pour the batter into the prepared skillet, and spread into an even layer. Sprinkle the surface with turbinado sugar. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes.

Let cool for 12 to 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with powdered sugar.

Murgh Chole (Chicken and Chickpea Curry)

Murgh Chole (Chicken and Chickpea Curry)

According to Punjabi lore, this heavily spiced chicken and chickpea dish was born during Emperor Shah Jahan’s imprisonment, when his cooks were challenged to create luxurious meals from humble chickpeas. Traditionally made with bone-in chicken, this streamlined version calls for boneless chicken thighs, browned then simmered with chickpeas in a complex tomato-onion base with ginger, garlic and green chiles. A few simple ingredients here result in a hearty, one-pot dish that delivers layers of flavor in just 30 minutes. The spritz of lemon and scatter of cilantro at the end add freshness. Serve it with rice, roti or by itself. 

Yield: 4 servings

¼ cup ghee, vegetable oil or canola oil

1 medium red or white onion, chopped 

1 teaspoon cumin seeds 

1 teaspoon ginger paste or freshly grated ginger 

1 teaspoon garlic paste or freshly grated garlic 

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces 

1 teaspoon Kashmiri or other red chile powder 

1 teaspoon garam masala 

¼ teaspoon turmeric powder 

3 plum tomatoes, chopped, or ⅔ cup canned crushed tomatoes

4 to 6 Thai green chiles, finely chopped 

1 teaspoon fine sea salt 

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained

½ cup chicken stock or water

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Lemon wedges, for serving 

Rice or roti (optional), for serving

In a medium pot, melt the ghee over high heat. Add the onion and lower the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to brown around the edges, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cumin seeds, ginger and garlic. 

Add the chicken and turn the heat up to high. Cook the chicken, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid from the pot has evaporated and the chicken starts to brown, about 12  minutes. Stir in the chile powder, garam masala and turmeric. Reduce the heat to medium, then add the tomatoes, green chiles and salt. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down a bit, about 5 minutes. 

Add the chickpeas and stock, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot. Simmer for a few minutes, until the chickpeas are warmed through and the liquid has slightly thickened into a gravy. 

Sprinkle with cilantro and serve with lemon wedges, along with rice or roti if desired. 

TIP: This dish is super tasty and comes together rather quickly. I added some honey to balance the tomatoes a bit, served with a dollop of yogurt instead of lemon wedges. I’ll definitely make this one again.

Tamales

Tamales are a traditional Central and South American dish of masa, a corn dough, that is filled with meat, vegetables, cheese and seasonings, then wrapped in a corn husk or banana leaf and steamed. They have been around for thousands of years — the Aztec and the Maya people ate them — so there are innumerable delicious variations, but this Mexican version, which is known as rojos de puerco, is filled with braised pork and red chile sauce. Often served at special events like weddings, baptisms, first communions and the like, tamales are particularly important to Mexicans and Mexican-Americans at Christmas time during which tamaladas, or tamale-making parties, are hosted to divide the work, share the food and enjoy each other’s company. For convenience, this recipe calls for masa harina, a dried form of masa that can be found in most supermarkets and is reconstituted with water and fat, but if you can find fresh masa, use it for outrageously good, authentic results.

Yield: 16 tamales

2½ ounces/72 grams dried guajillo or New Mexico red chiles, stemmed and seeded (about 10 to 15, depending on size)

3 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed (seeded for mild), or 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 large poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded and roughly chopped

¼ medium white onion, roughly chopped (about ½ cup)

1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 

5 whole cloves

4 dried bay leaves

2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican 

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat

7 cups/805 grams masa harina, such as Maseca (If using fresh masa, see Tip.)

1 cup lard, melted, or vegetable oil, plus more as needed

30 dried corn husks (from a 1-pound bag)

Fresh salsa and lime wedges, for serving

For the pork: Heat the oven to 250 degrees. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, layer guajillo, chiles de árbol, poblano, onion, garlic, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves, oregano, peppercorns, 5 teaspoons salt, pork and ¾ cup water over medium-high heat. Bring mixture to a boil, cover pot and transfer to oven.

Braise pork until it is very tender and shreds easily, 3 to 3½ hours. Let cool, uncovered, for 15 minutes, then transfer pork to a large bowl and skim fat from the sauce. Using a potato masher or two large forks, smash or pull pork to shred the meat.

Transfer chile and spice mixture (including bay leaves) and the liquid to a blender and process until smooth. (It should be the consistency of a thick marinara sauce.) Transfer 2 cups of the sauce (leaving additional sauce in the blender to be used in the next step) to the shredded pork and stir until completely coated. Taste and season with salt, if necessary. (Filling can be made 3 days ahead. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)

To the blender, add water to the reserved chile sauce to make 1¼ cups total. Add 4 teaspoons of salt and process until the salt is dissolved. Set aside to add to the masa in Step 6.

Soak corn husks in a large bowl of hot water until soft and pliable, about 15 minutes. Using your hands, swirl husks in water to loosen any silks or dirt. Drain, rinse and shake off excess water.

Meanwhile, make the masa: Combine masa harina, 2 cups warm water, lard and reserved 1¼ cups salted chile sauce in a large bowl. Mix with your hands until well incorporated and the mixture is shiny and smooth, about 5 minutes. The texture should resemble a very thick hummus; if it appears crumbly, add water 2 tablespoons at a time and mix thoroughly until it reaches the correct texture.

Clean your hands and slap the top of masa with your palm, immediately pulling your hand back. If masa doesn’t stick and your hand looks shiny, the dough is ready and has enough fat to prevent it from sticking to the corn husks. If the masa sticks, add another 2 tablespoons of lard and knead until incorporated; repeat slap test. If masa still sticks to your hand, repeat the process until you get there. (Another 2 tablespoons of lard should do it.)

Assemble the tamales: Set aside 16 husks that are at least 6 inches across at the widest part. (Keep extra on hand in case of tears. Reserve smaller husks for lining the pot.) Place a husk on a work surface and open it so the wide end is closest to you. Scoop ½ cup masa in the center of the husk. Using the back of a spoon or your hands, pat masa into an even ⅓-inch-thick layer on the bottom half of the husk, leaving a ½-inch border on the edge closest to you, and allowing plenty of room at the top to fold down later.

Place ⅓ cup of the pork filling down the center of the masa. Fold one long side of the husk over the filling, then the other. Fold the top end underneath. Set on a sheet pan seam-side up. Repeat with remaining tamales.

Steam the tamales: Line a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, deep enough to fit the tamales upright, with reserved husks. Arrange tamales standing up with the folded ends on the bottom of the pot and the seams facing the wall of the pot. Continue stacking tamales around the perimeter, leaning them against one another to keep the ends folded in tightly. If the pot has extra space in the middle when all of the tamales have been added, fill it with a ball of aluminum foil. Carefully pour water into the pot until it comes about ¾-inch up the side. Bring to a boil over high, then reduce heat to a medium boil. Cover pot and cook tamales for 1 hour, undisturbed, adding more water as needed to keep the pot steaming.

Check for doneness by removing one tamal from the pot; let cool for 3 minutes. (If you don’t let it rest before checking, masa will stick to the husk and appear gummy.) Remove the husk; it should peel back easily when it’s done. If masa sticks to the husk, it’s not ready. Refold and return tamal to the pot. Cook 5 minutes more and check again. Once tamales are done, turn off the heat, uncover and let tamales sit for 10 minutes before unwrapping.

Serve tamales with salsa and lime wedges.

Tips: You cannot substitute traditional cornmeal, corn flour or masarepa for masa harina.

Instructions for using fresh masa: Fresh masa is available at most Latin markets and online. Look for “unprepared” masa. (“Prepared” masa has added lard and seasonings, but “unprepared” has only corn, water and lime, so you can control the amount of lard and seasoning.) To use unprepared masa in this recipe, you’ll need 4½ pounds of fresh, coarse-ground masa.

In Step 6, combine the fresh masa with 1¼ cups lard and the reserved 1¼ cups chile mixture in a large bowl. Mix with your hands until well incorporated and mixture is shiny and smooth, about 5 minutes. The texture should resemble a very thick hummus; if it appears crumbly, add water 2 tablespoons at a time and mix thoroughly until it reaches the correct texture. Proceed as directed through the remainder of the recipe.

Storage: Tamales last in the refrigerator, kept in their husks and wrapped tightly in plastic, for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. To reheat, thaw completely and steam using a pot and steamer basket until completely warmed through, or wrap in a damp paper towel and heat in the microwave in 30 second intervals until hot and steamy.

Wow. This is as legit as it gets. Amazing recipe, truly, truly authentic. My mom does add other dried chiles, usually a mixture of guajillo, ancho and morita, but I have absolutely 0 complaints with the recipe. Rick traveling Mexico during Covid has given us the best Mexican recipes we could wish for. Authentic perfection.

For the masa, even if using fresh masa my mother-in-law insisted on whipping more shortening into the dough. She tested the dough's lightness by putting a small ball of dough into a glass of water. If the dough floated, it passed her test. If the dough didn't float, she wanted us to mix in more shortening.

Every pork tamale had 3 olives included in it.

And my tip: put a big pot of albondigas on to cook when the tamale making party starts. People will be hungry long before the tamales are ready.

Masa needs to be whipped for at least 10 minutes with a mixer. Otherwise the masa will be thick, grainy, and too dense. Masa is ready when a teaspoon size ball floats to the top when dropped in a glass of water.

Husks need to be soaked for an hour minimum. Honestly, my Mexican friends soak for hours, some overnight. I start soaking before I start the filling.

I spread the masa thinly. Like the tamale of my childhood. I use an offset spatula to spread the masa—faster than using a spoon.

Spicy, Creamy Weeknight Bolognese

Spicy, Creamy Weeknight Bolognese

This pasta sauce captures the soul-soothing essence of a long-simmering Bolognese even though it cooks quickly. Searing ground beef gives it a caramelized taste that mimics the depth of slow-cooked meat. Adding a few spoonfuls of red curry paste doesn’t make it taste like curry, but gives it instant nuance and depth. Some rich cream at the end rounds the sharp heat to an enveloping warmth. To save even more time, you can chop the vegetables while the meat is cooking. The sauce tastes great on any type of pasta, but it’s especially nice with varieties that can capture it in their curves.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Salt and black pepper

1 pound ground beef (at least 20 percent fat)

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons red curry paste

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 pound short, curled pasta, such as pipettes

1 cup heavy cream

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, heat a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over high until very hot. Add the beef, and smush and spread in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then cook, stirring, to break into tiny bits and cook through, 4 to 5 minutes.

Push the meat to one side, and add the onion and carrots to the beef fat on the other side. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally with the beef, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add the curry paste, 2 tablespoons for a mild spiciness and 3 for more heat, and stir until darkened in color, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the tomato sauce, then fill the can a third of the way up with water to swish out the rest of the sauce into the pot. Stir, bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and simmer while the pasta cooks.

Cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente. Save ½ cup pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta and add to the simmering sauce.

Stir the cream into the sauced pasta, taste and season with salt and pepper. For a thinner sauce, stir in a bit of the pasta water. Serve hot.

TIP: I believe every Italian American Cook has a version of this in their repertoire. As the family cook, being that I was a teacher and got home an hour and a half earlier than my wife, I would make a very similar sauce: ground beef browned in the pot, caramelized the onions and a carrot, if I had one sitting around, open up a can of Cento crushed tomatoes, empty it with a little bit of water. The kids would come home, absolutely ravenous from their after school activities and devour it, and if we were lucky, with a big dollop of ricotta cheese and Parmesan on top. It was an absolute lifesaver, highly recommended for working families. I’m going to try the red curry paste, it sounds delicious.

Everyday Dal

Everyday Dal

The warming, soothing and downright healing effects of dal are well known throughout South Asia and its diaspora. This is an everyday dish for a good reason: It’s simple to make but tastes complex, and the flavor only deepens over time. There are countless ways to make dal; this version requires just 10 minutes and five ingredients (not including salt), all serving important purposes: The lentils cook quickly, the turmeric lends an earthy wholesomeness and the rich chhonk, or tempering, made by sizzling spices with ghee, brings instant depth. To gussy it up, try adding a packet of frozen spinach, or stirring minced garlic into the chhonk. If you’re tempted to use ground cumin instead of cumin seeds, resist! The seeds have a distinctly smokier flavor and add a pleasant texture to the dal.

Yield: 4 servings

1 cup red lentils (also known as red split lentils or masoor dal)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Salt

3 tablespoons ghee

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

⅛ to ¼ teaspoon ground red chile

⅛ teaspoon asafetida (optional but extremely good, see Tip)

Rice or roti, for serving

Combine the lentils (no need to rinse them) with the turmeric, 1 teaspoon salt and 3 cups of water in a medium saucepan. If you like your dal a little soupier, add an extra cup of water here. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, until the lentils resemble a loose porridge. If the lentils are too thick, add a little hot water.

In a small pan or pot, melt the ghee over medium heat and add the cumin seeds. Let them cook until they are aromatic and a darker shade of brown, about 1 minute. Stir in the red chile powder and asafetida, let them toast for a few seconds until fragrant (the asafetida will give off a garlic-esque scent), then remove from the heat.

Taste the lentils and add more salt if desired. Pour the hot ghee over the lentils — you can either stir to combine or leave it be, for a dramatic presentation — and serve with rice or roti.

Tip: Asafetida is a tree resin used commonly as a seasoning in South Asian cuisines. It has a wonderfully potent, sort of allium-esque flavor that adds depth to many dishes. It can be ordered online or found in South Asian grocery stores, and it is worth going out of your way to purchase — it really makes this dish sing. An imperfect but somewhat suitable substitute is garlic powder.

Much as I love Priya Krishna, it is impossible to cook Dal of any type so quickly. One the source of heat, is it electric, gas, induction etc? Two the size & type of pot. Three the dal to water ratio. Four with or without a lid. Seriously it is no joke. And it is vital to add salt AFTER cooking as it will affect the texture. Ginger & Garlic are essential ingredients. Washing the dal ten times is a must. With an Instant Pot I make it in 17 minutes flat. Pure joy with the Instant Pot.Enjoy.

Always rinse red lentils. Many many times. One comment here suggests ten times. That sounds fine to me. Same with any dry beans, chick peas, green or brown lentils and rice. Especially rice. You can either take it from me and start doing that today or go to the trouble of visiting a rice factory in Thailand, India or Pakistan and start rinsing rice and pulses after getting home from that trip.

Stir-Fried Cabbage and Pork in Fish Sauce Butter

Stir-Fried Cabbage and Pork in Fish Sauce Butter

This quick, weeknight cabbage and pork stir-fry is humble in ingredients yet packed with flavor, thanks to briny fish sauce, rich brown butter and potent aromatics (ginger, garlic and red-pepper flakes). Chopped cabbage gets a nice char in butter that browns as it cooks, adding richness to the lean vegetable. Fast-cooking ground pork is infused with garlic, ginger and scallions, and the final addition of salty fish sauce, bright lime juice and chopped fresh cilantro creates a punchy sauce. If you like a jolt of heat, use a thinly sliced bird’s-eye chile in place of the crushed red pepper.

Yield: 4 servings

1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as canola or safflower

1 pound ground pork

Salt and pepper 

3 scallions, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound green or red cabbage, chopped into 1-inch pieces (about 5 cups)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon lime juice, plus wedges for serving

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

Cooked rice (such as short-grain white or brown rice), for serving

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high. Add pork, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up the meat until no longer pink, about 5 minutes.

Add scallions, garlic and ginger, and stir until fragrant, 30 seconds. Transfer the pork mixture to a plate.

Add 2 tablespoons of the butter to the skillet and stir until melted. Add cabbage, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender and golden in spots, 5 minutes.

Stir in the pork mixture (and any accumulated juices), then add fish sauce, lime juice, crushed red pepper and the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and mix well. Turn off the heat. Season with salt and pepper and stir in cilantro.

Divide pork and cabbage mixture over rice in bowls. Top with more cilantro and serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

Spicy Noodle Stir-Fry With Salt and Pepper Tofu

Spicy Noodle Stir-Fry With Salt and Pepper Tofu

This stir-fry, from my book “Big Vegan Flavor” (Avery Books, 2024), hits all the comfort food take-out notes with its combination of salt and pepper tofu, blistered green beans and a tangle of silky noodles, all coated in a deeply savory, garlicky, salty and spicy sauce.

Yield: 4 servings

For the Sauce

3 ½ tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

2 ½ tablespoons Shaoxing wine (see Tip)

2 tablespoons organic brown sugar

1 to 2 tablespoons chili-garlic sauce or sambal oelek (2 tablespoons for spicy!)

3 tablespoons vegetable broth (or water)

For the Salt and Pepper Tofu

1 (14-ounce) block extra-firm tofu, ideally previously frozen and thawed (see Tip)

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

¼ teaspoon onion powder

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder (optional)

3 tablespoons arrowroot powder or cornstarch

¾ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

3 tablespoons neutral-flavored high-heat oil (such as avocado oil)

For the Noodles

6 ounces dried noodles, such as ramen, udon or egg-free wheat noodles

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

For the Green Beans

1 tablespoon neutral-flavored high-heat oil (such as avocado oil)

12 ounces green beans, trimmed and halved

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced, then sliced into matchsticks

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

6 scallions, thinly sliced (reserve dark green tops for garnish)

For Serving

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon roasted black or white sesame seeds

Make the sauce:

In a small jar, combine the soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar, chili-garlic sauce and vegetable broth. Cover and shake well.

Make the tofu:

Drain the tofu, wrap it in a clean thin dish towel and gently squeeze it using the palms of your hands to remove excess water. If you’re not using thawed tofu, press it for 15 minutes instead.

Slice the tofu in half vertically, then slice each block crosswise into squares about ⅓-inch thick. Gently press down with a towel to get the water out and repeat a few times.

In a small bowl, combine the white pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, five-spice powder (if using) and arrowroot powder. Transfer the mixture to a small fine-mesh sieve.

Arrange the tofu tightly spaced on a cutting board. Sprinkle the top with half of the salt, then dust with half of the spice mixture. Flip the tofu, sprinkle with the rest of the salt, and dust with the rest of the spice mixture.

Line a cutting board or large plate with paper towels.

Heat a flat-bottomed wok over medium-high until it just starts to smoke. Then add the oil and tilt the pan to coat the lower sides. Reduce the heat to medium and add the tofu, standing back to avoid splatter. (Or, heat a 12-inch nonstick skillet with the oil over medium-high for a few minutes, then add the tofu.) Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, shaking the pan every minute for even cooking, until golden brown on the bottom. Flip the tofu and repeat this process for 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown but not charred on the bottom (if using a wok, the center pieces will cook faster). Transfer to the paper towel-lined surface. Wipe out the pan.

Make the noodles:

While the tofu fries, cook the noodles per the package instructions. Drain and toss with the sesame oil.

Make the green beans:

Heat the wok (or skillet) over high until it just starts to smoke, then add the oil. Add the green beans with a tiny pinch of salt and spread in a single layer as much as possible. Cook undisturbed until beans start to blister, 1 minute. Toss and cook undisturbed for 90 seconds (if not using a wok, the beans might need a minute longer). Add the ginger, garlic and white and light green parts of the scallions and toss frequently until aromatic, 1 minute.

Pour in the sauce, standing back to avoid splatter. Stir-fry until the beans are crisp-tender and the sauce has reduced a bit, another 2 minutes. (If you’re not using a wok, you might need an extra minute or two for the sauce to reduce.)

Turn off the heat and add the noodles, reserved scallion greens, cilantro and sesame seeds. Use tongs to toss the noodles in the sauce. Add the fried tofu and use a spatula to gently incorporate.

Tips: Shaoxing wine adds a rich, nutty and salty but slightly sweet depth of flavor to Chinese stir-fries. You can find it at some supermarkets and at pan-Asian grocery stores or online. You can substitute with mirin or dry sherry; if using mirin, use just 1 tablespoon of brown sugar instead.

To freeze tofu, add the tofu and its water to a container and freeze until solid, at least 8 hours. Thaw in the fridge (it will take about 1 day), but you can speed this up considerably by placing the tofu on an aluminum sheet pan at room temperature for up to 2 hours at a time. 

My family generally liked this, although I'm the only one eating leftovers. I'd definitely make it again. One tip: Don't put the pan-fried tofu into the sauce at the end; doing so will ruin the nice crust on it. I have learned to keep fried tofu warm and add it to any dish on top when serving.

Saland-e Nakhod (Chickpea Yogurt Stew)

Saland-e Nakhod (Chickpea Yogurt Stew)

In 2007, the human rights investigator Michael Shaikh first tasted this dreamy, golden chickpea stew, saland-e nakhod (also called qurma-e nakhod), at his friend Tamim Samee’s dinner table in Kabul, Afghanistan. “It’s a dish some Afghan families have forgotten,” Mr. Samee told Mr. Shaikh. This recipe comes to us from Mr. Shaikh’s book, “The Last Sweet Bite: Stories and Recipes of Culinary Heritage Lost and Found” (Crown, 2025). Many cultures have a richly spiced chickpea stew thickened with tangy yogurt. This one, with its soft, comforting flavors, belongs in that glorious pantheon. Canned chickpeas taste lovely here, but if you have some extra time, starting from dried results in a deeper, more layered savoriness that puts the starchy legume front and center. 

Yield: 4 servings

2 or 3 garlic cloves

1 cup/8 ounces plain full-fat Greek yogurt

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 red onion, finely chopped

1 fresh green chile (such as Thai or serrano), finely chopped, plus a few whole chiles for serving

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 small tomato, very finely chopped

3 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed (see Tip)

Cilantro, for serving

Warmed flatbread or steamed basmati rice, for serving

Finely grate 2 garlic cloves directly into the yogurt in a bowl and season with salt. Stir to combine, then taste, adding the final clove if you want it more garlicky and more salt if needed. (Some will be stirred into the final stew at the end, mellowing the garlic slightly. The rest will be served alongside as a condiment.) Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high. When the oil is shimmering, add the onion and chile and cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent and golden at the edges, about 10 minutes. Add more oil if the pan looks dry. Lower the heat slightly, then stir in the coriander, cumin, turmeric and black pepper and cook, stirring, until sizzling and fragrant, about a minute. Stir in the tomato and 1 teaspoon salt.

Add the chickpeas and 2 cups of water, or enough just to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover partially and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced and thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. It will thicken further once you add the yogurt later.

Remove from the heat, taste and add more salt if needed. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the reserved garlic yogurt. Taste and add more yogurt if desired. Serve immediately, topped with the cilantro and alongside the remaining garlic yogurt, flatbread or rice and whole chiles to nibble on for extra heat.

Tip: You can also start from dried chickpeas (often sold as garbanzo beans). The night before, rinse 2 cups dried chickpeas in a large fine-mesh sieve under cold running water. Transfer to a large bowl, add fresh water to cover generously and soak overnight. They will expand considerably. When ready to cook, drain and add in step 3, simmering the stew until the chickpeas are tender, at least 1 hour, adding more water as needed to keep them covered.

Using dried chickpeas: even with overnight-soaked chickpeas, you'll want to use a pressure cooker/instant pot, on the "beans" setting (35 mins pressure + natural release). Cooking beans/chickpeas without pressure will take thrice as long.

In South Asia, where legumes are the major daily source of dietary protein, a pressure cooker has been an essential kitchen device for at least 80 years. Urban life is too busy to spend 90+ minutes on a single recipe.

Chicken Pad See Ew

Chicken Pad See Ew

This version of pad see ew, adapted from my book “Family Thai” (Abrams, 2025), written with Kat Thompson, is a kid favorite that I will never give up on. The char on the chewy rice noodles, the fresh and leafy gai lan, and the fluffy bites of egg make this dish a textural masterpiece. I’ve never gotten sick of it. “Pad” means stir-fry or wok-fry, and “see ew” means soy sauce, so the dish is exactly what it claims to be. One thing I love about it is that it goes with pretty much every protein: Chicken works great, and so do fatty cuts of pork, beef, shrimp or tofu. I even occasionally swap the rice noodles for pappardelle for a Thai-Talian twist I’ve coined “papp see ew.” In fact, you can use any size rice noodle (although wide, flat noodles are most traditional). Although pad see ew is hard to make at home without really high heat and a wok, it’s still possible to replicate it and get the street vendor vibes you want by using a stainless-steel skillet that can heat evenly and stay hot throughout the cooking process. In true Thai fashion, this dish gets finished with prik nam som (chile vinegar).

Yield: 4 servings

For the Noodles

1 (8-ounce/225-gram) package dried long, flat rice noodles or fresh noodles or dried pappardelle (see Tips)

For the Oyster-soy Sauce Chicken

½ cup oyster sauce

¼ cup Thai seasoning sauce or low-sodium soy sauce

¼ cup black soy sauce (see Tips)

2 tablespoons sugar

6 ounces skinless, boneless chicken thighs, sliced (about 2 thighs)

For the Stir-fry

2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as sunflower

2 large eggs

4 ounces firm or extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into ¼-inch-wide rectangles

¼ white onion, sliced

2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

2 cups mixed mushrooms (4 ounces), such as trumpet, oyster, shiitake and cremini, trimmed and sliced

4 ounces gai lan (Chinese broccoli), cut into 2-inch pieces

4 scallions, pale green and white parts only, cut into 1-inch pieces

½ teaspoon ground white pepper, plus more for serving

Store-bought or homemade fried garlic, for serving

Store-bought or homemade prik nam som (chile vinegar), for serving (see Tips)

Make the noodles: If using dried rice noodles, put the noodles in a large bowl and pour warm water over them (for other types of noodles, see Tips). Let stand until soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. Just before cooking, fill a large saucepan three-quarters full of water and bring to a boil over high heat.

Make the oyster-soy sauce chicken: In a medium, nonreactive bowl, combine the oyster sauce, Thai seasoning, black soy sauce and sugar, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Coat the chicken with ¼ cup of the sauce and let stand for 5 minutes to marinate. Reserve the remaining sauce.

Stir-fry the noodles: In a large skillet, heat the oil over high until it shimmers. Crack the eggs into the pan and cook until the whites begin to set and the yolks harden, breaking them slightly. They’re not scrambled in pieces but should look more like a broken omelet. Add the marinated chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is opaque, about 2 minutes. Add the tofu, onion and garlic, and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the mushrooms, gai lan and scallions, and stir until combined. Stir in the white pepper.

Blanch the drained rice noodles in the boiling water for 10 to 15 seconds. Drain the noodles, transfer them to the skillet and stir together. Drizzle in as much of the remaining oyster-soy sauce as desired, adjusting to taste (and keeping in mind that the sauce will reduce and intensify as it heats), and cook, stirring, until the sauce deepens in color and the noodles are tender, about 2 minutes.

Transfer to a platter and then garnish with fried garlic and white pepper, and serve immediately with a side of prik nam som.

Tips: If using fresh noodles, place them directly into the skillet — there is no need to soak them or blanch them in boiling water. Or, to make “papp” see ew, cook pappardelle noodles according to the package instructions and place them directly into the skillet when the noodles are added.

Black soy sauce is a dark, less salty version of soy sauce used in Thai cooking to add savory flavor and a dark, rich color to dishes. Find it online or at Thai or Asian markets.

To make prik nam som, combine 1 cup distilled white vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt in a 16-ounce lidded glass jar. Cover and shake until the sugar is fully dissolved. Add 6 sliced large garlic cloves and 4 sliced large serrano chiles, then cover and shake again to combine. Store in the refrigerator overnight. Serve at room temperature. (The vinegar will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)

In order to keep this authentic, the noodles should be cooked by themselves, and left alone in the skillet to develop that “wok hei”, which literally translates to “breath of the wok”. You need to get that slight char and caramelization on the noodles in order to do this. After I drain the noodles, I put a little bit of the sauce in there and mix it in and let it start the flavor the noodles, but also the sugar would help them caramelize. So my order of cooking was chicken with the sauce and garlic, out of the wok, vegetables, then eggs, then out of the wok, finally the noodles are just letting them sit without touching them because the more you touch them the easier they are to break. Try tossing them instead of using a tool. Then finally combine everything and serve. I did the fried garlic and I also use some delicious garlic chilipaste. Definitely fire this up again this was a winner!

If you are puzzling over the vague sounding “seasoning sauce,” that usually implies Golden Mountain sauce, which can be found in the Thai bottled sauce section of your neighborhood Asian Food superstore. [Imagine smiley emoji here]. But here’s a secret: Bragg’s Amino Liquid is practically indistinguishable, and perhaps possibly even Maggi Seasoning sauce. Also, if you are old enough to remember canned chow main by La Choy, that sauce was really Golden Moutain sauce disguised.